To insulate the outside walls with foam

This article contains all the necessary information that will help you to perform insulation walls of the house outside. The slab of foam are used as insulating material. The article describes in detail all the stages of the work in their strict sequence. The reader will get acquainted with the application of technology renders the surface of the foam and to learn about how to prepare the wall before the beginning of the process of warming, and will receive all the necessary information relating to various embodiments of the mounting foam.

Specific instructions will guide you through all the work themselves, without the assistance of relevant organizations, which will help a good save.

The process of preparing the walls

Not difficult to guess that before the actual process of insulation you need to prepare the walls of the building. It should take into account the fact that the walls of various buildings are distinguished by their quality (smoothness). The main aim at this stage is to obtain as flat walls, which ultimately will simplify installation and make more efficient insulation.

Also irregularities reduce the structural strength if the concave remain under insulation region, after mechanical action on the material it may break. The same situation is observed and the convex portions of the walls. If a sheet of foam is bulging portion, it contributes to cavities in areas where no bumps. Therefore, the question of preparation of the walls should be taken with caution and avoid surface drops more than 12 cm.

Next, you should pay attention to what the state has a surface façade - you need to evaluate the ability of the adhesive mixture to adhere to the surface of the walls.

In cases where the facade has long enough been painted and the paint is deformed in the so-called "mugs", it is necessary to clean the surface. If used when painting PF paint, it is necessary to bring down. Further, should perform the following steps:

• It is recommended to hold his hand on the wall and if your hand pieces of paint will not remain, and other items you can do without priming the walls. However, it must be said that the primer is of great benefit and to simplify further processes. Therefore, if your goal is to create the highest quality insulation and the number of buck does not scare, it is better to use a primer.
• If there is something like chalk on a worn after his hand on the wall in his hand, then it is necessary to prime.
• If at the moment when the hand slips on the wall, spilling something like sand, it is necessary to clean the wall of a high quality. This process must be performed before the moment when dust no longer pour from the wall. Then you need to do the process of priming.
• If suddenly after a long stripping off the wall continues to roll in the sand, then why not qualitatively proshpaklevat it, using PVA. In the first stage you need to use putty spray.

priming process is performed with the use of conventional mixtures of different manufacturers. Priming can be a conventional brush (maklovitsej), as well as using the spray. It is recommended to use a brush, as this is done additional cleaning walls, but if priming process, you notice that the sand from the wall continues to crumble, then take advantage of better spray.

Preparation of sheet insulation material (about Epps)

This information relates only Epps and foam mixture to "stick" excellent. The fact that the surface roughness of the sheet Epps below - they are smooth. Some manufacturers Epps with a corrugated surface, eliminating the extra work and the right to use them in the process of warming. But this embodiment Epps is often very hard to find on sale.

The main objective in this step is to create a rough surface sheet Epps. It is recommended to use a spiked roller, which is very often used for drywall.

Ease of handling this roller is obvious, because enough rolled across the sheet and the task is completed. Sometimes the masters are advised to use the office knife that can cut a shallow furrow, but the work is delayed too, because the resulting performance is too low.

Preparation of the surface sheet is performed before gluing them to the wall. Should prepare in advance a certain number of sheets for the wall section, you're going to do. The sheets should be rolled on both sides. It is also possible to treat the surface of the sheet using a wire brush having a sufficiently large rigidity.

Remember that such actions do not foam prodelyvat need.

Installation of the elements: low tide, window sills, as well as insulation of slopes

Installation of external elements, as well as the performance of sewing the outer slopes should be performed before the insulation will be laid on the wall.

Exterior window sills are fastened directly to the plastic window. To this end, the manufacturer specifically provided for a special recess in the profile, which is used to secure the window sill. Counting stem sill, it is worth considering the thickness and thermal insulating material layer. Therefore, removal is calculated by the formula: thickness of the insulating material + 1 cm. Typically, this amount is 3-4 cm. Less than 3 cm is not recommended take-out, as during the rainy season the water will flow down the insulation, which could lead to negative phenomena. Removal of more than 4 cm is not recommended, as this in the rain there will be a lot of noise.

For example, if the insulation thickness of 50 mm, the sill should extend beyond the non-insulated wall at 10-11 cm (50 mm + 40 mm + 10 mm).

In some cases, installation of windows is made on the starting profile - plastic element under the window and having a sectional shape of a rectangle. In this case, after installing the window sill there is cavity underneath. In some cases, the considered cavity occurs even in cases where no starting cavity. Empty space between the window and the base should not be in any case!
If such a void exists, up there with the passage of time it begins to condense moisture, which eventually begins to flow under the heater or, worse, in the apartment (house).
Get rid of the cavity can be described fairly simply. Suffice it to seal it using insulating material smeared special adhesive mix, and you can use plaster, which should be carefully fill the void.
The easiest way to use the heater, as Epps and well-cut foam office knife in any direction. The resulting structure resembles a blind area, performed under the windowsill. You can also fill the cavity with foam, which expands and perfectly replace the void. This design eliminates the noise of the rain time. After laying the foam should sill pin (e.g. bricks) for a period of about 3 hours.
It is important to understand that in order to avoid damage during installation of the sill film pasted on it by the manufacturer, do not shoot. Shoot it must be after all the work associated with warming.

Exterior soffits windows also need insulation. Typically, after the installation of windows for insulation material is only 20-30 mm, otherwise the insulation and used with it will fall on the glass materials. This means that this operation is necessary to use foam or Epps having a smaller thickness than the material that is used to directly heat insulation of the façade. We should not forget that other materials (fasteners) are used in addition to insulation, a layer which is approximately 1 cm. Hence, if the distance from the surface of the slope to the line parallel thereto, emerging from the edge of the glass is 40 mm, the thickness of the insulation should not exceed 30 mm.

Questions to install and use of adhesive material mixtures will be described hereinafter.

In the time of installation of insulating material on the surface of the slope should make sure that the heater protrudes slightly (about 1 cm) and cut it. After that, this part of the insulation will be more convenient to join the main part of the facade insulation.

Bonding of insulation

Installing insulation in the walls is performed after the works on the installation of window sills and insulation slopes.

In this article we consider the fixing of insulation in two ways simultaneously: gluing and nailing. In this case it is possible to achieve the highest quality fasteners and is already noticeable in the early days of the building.

Bonding of insulation starts at the bottom of the facade. Here you can set a special so-called starting strap, fastening which is performed using rapid installation. Some go without this point, but the presence of the starting strips can achieve the best results, as well as reduce the likelihood of progress of the insulation sheets that have already been pasted. Sheets of material until complete drying of the adhesive mixture may move along the wall surface. Movement can occur at distances up to 10 cm, which is a large value. The starting strip is a reliable support for the first series of sheets and allow them to get rid of motion (slippage).

To carry out gluing is required the presence of two spatulas: small (8-10 cm) and large (20 cm). A small spatula is used as a blade for overlaying solution on a larger spatula. If you are working with a smooth wall surface differences which do not exceed 1 cm, quite successfully use the comb - a spatula with teeth. If the roughness of the wall exceeds 1 cm, the solution is applied to the wall. Because the sheet surface is always smooth and applying the solution on the wall, any irregularities can be smoothed by using appropriate places in a greater amount of the solution. Many suggestions apply the mixture on the surface of the sheet evenly. This decision was not the right, as a result it turns out that quite a large portion of the sheet hanging in the air from behind the wall irregularities. Furthermore, the sheet on which was applied a mixture, weighing 3-5 kg ​​more, which complicates its installation - master inconveniently keep it pressed, etc.

Apply the mixture on the surface of the wall is recommended discontinuous strip along the contour of the sheet, as well as thicker layers are applied in areas where there are depressions and lower layers, where the bumps are observed.

Mixture may be spread only on flat walls, however if the facade surface has a plurality of irregularities, the step of smearing is skipped.

On uneven surfaces it is recommended to put on the wall near the so-called 9 lyapuh mixture (1 in the center and 8 on the perimeter). Moreover lyapuhi may be of different sizes. The main objective of this stage is a smoothing of the relief walls and creating a flat surface. At the same time we must try to make up for all the quality depressions existing on the surface.

If there are clearly bulging area of ​​the wall, to be rid of them, or done in the appropriate sheet of foam hollow corresponding to docking plate and wall was maximally dense and did not arise between the cavities objects. However, Epps create recess fails, so the mixture into convex wall space should be applied very thin layer.

After the mixture is applied, to proceed directly adhering the sheets. Gently presses the sheet, and then pressed and hand clapping. Claps force should be calculated so that on the surface of the insulating material does not arise dents.

Some Epps sheets are produced with a quarter - small protrusion surface having half the thickness. This enables high-quality dock plates to each other and increase the thermal insulation effect.

It is important that after the fastening sheet joints are T-shaped, ie rows are staggered.

Between the processes of gluing and nailing it is recommended to endure a period of about three days. This allows the mixture to dry and grips, insulation at the same time "sits down". In the case of the independent exercise of warming three days mentioned are obtained automatically, as is usually the work is done by certain sections. Of course, every webmaster wants to finish the job as quickly as possible, but in this case should not rely on rapid conclusion, since half (or even less) of the work carried out from the ground, and the rest of the installation will require scaffolding. Therefore, it is best to distribute the tasks so as not to perform the rearrangement of scaffolding in the same place several times. Therefore it is best to carry out the work in stages, instead of doing the whole pasting first at home and then nailing.

Also, if the first was performed pasting the entire house, or the foam slabs Epps will have a long time to be exposed to direct sunlight, which has a negative impact. Even storage insulation boards, lying in the open sun in the stack is not allowed. Moreover, when it rains foam is capable of absorbing moisture.

Therefore it is better to perform the work sections and promptly bring each portion prior to the application of the alignment layer. Fate will be the same height as the master, and their width will be determined by the width of the scaffolding. By "portion" will be made more precisely the area of ​​the specified size.

 How to perform a nailing insulation

The first thing to remember is the fact that the nailing of insulation should be performed after at least three days after gluing performed. Before then it is not necessary to perform this operation. Especially because on drying the mixture affects the weather. If start drilling holes in the insulation to the point until the mixture dries, the insulation sheet can be easy to move away from the wall, forming a cavity, which has a negative influence on the result insulation. Moreover, if it happens that a nail fall into the cavity, the edges of the sheet pripodnimut, which again will bring up the voids. In this case, the edges have to attach additional fungi.

As it has been said, to create a more reliable fastening sheets of insulation to the wall using the so-called fungi. This fungus is composed of two elements: plastic circle with a sleeve-cap-foot and the nail. The nail is hammered into the sleeve, expanding its lower part, leaving the wall. This creates a secure connection that can last for many years.

The nail may be a metal and plastic. Naturally, a metal nail to be more durable, but it is a good conductor of heat leaving in the wall. Therefore, a plastic nail to create the best conditions for thermal insulation. It is not necessary to chase the cheap plastic nails and fungi, as they tend to be fairly soft and can not withstand heavy loads. Buying those expensive, you can not go wrong!

After selecting portion begins pilot drilling holes with the punch. When this bit is used whose diameter is 10 mm. opening depth is the amount by 2 cm greater than the length of the fungus. If you drill a hole, the depth of which will coincide with the length of the fungus, the latter will not be able to enter the end, as the hole will crumble debris after drilling. The length of the fungi used must be determined as follows: the thickness of the insulation boards + 10 mm + 40-50 mm hole in the wall. If the insulation thickness of 50 mm, the length of the fungus is as follows: 50 + 10 + 50 = 110 mm. In this hole depth is 11 + 2 = 13 cm, so the length of the drill bit must exceed 13 cm.

Location holes on the insulation sheet

The most common one is the placement of fungi arrangement similar to figure 5 on the dice. That is, four leaf fungus are located near the corners and one in the center.

It must be said that there is a more practical option allows you to create the most robust design: fungi They are located at each point where the three lines intersect the junction and one fungus is placed in the center of each sheet. Such an arrangement will ensure maximum strength and eliminates the further deformation and gaps sheet insulation material. If you think that in some places there was a rise of insulation, then no harm will be driving a fungus in the corresponding points.

This example fungi location considered the most practical, since in this case possible to firmly fix the joint, which is denser and smoother surface adjacent to the wall. After the heater is bent slightly due to irregularities of the walls and, therefore, it is necessary to press in critical areas.

If we consider the scale of the wall, then it should be noted that one rule: fungi should not be trying to drive closer than 5-10 cm from a wall or corner edge.

When the holes are ready, it is necessary to start driving fungi! It molds itself without nails. If they are well included, the shoe can be punched, but most often used for this purpose hammer. Score needed until the cap until the mold is not level with the plane of the insulation material. If you can not drive a fungus to the desired depth, then most likely, the demolition of the drill used (reduced diameter). Replacing drill solves this problem. However, the need to pull out the fungus, drill the hole again, and then perform the installation of the fungus again.

At the time when this area all the fungi put into place, it should start nailing inside most of these fungi. During nailing fungi will move slightly inwards - this process is normal. Qualitatively hammered a nail and cap fungus must plunge into the insulation to 12 mm, but not more than that! If the nail is hammered on and sticking to a height of 1 cm, it should be cut using wire cutters.

How to handle the insulation joints and fungi

After work to consolidate the insulation at a specific site are completed, it is necessary to look closely to determine the presence and joints, the size of which is greater than 5 mm. Such joints are often found on the walls, where there are relatively large bumps, especially if the foam is applied. All joints, the value of which exceeds 5 mm, must be carefully zapenit. You may ask: "Why not zapenit those joints that are less than 5 mm?". The answer is simple: in such joints do not fit "nose" pistol. If there are joints, which have a width of 2 cm or more, in such cases, you need to cut narrow strips of insulating material, and putting them in the appropriate places, zapenit.

Foam drying process lasts for 4-5 hours. At this time, it expands and gets out. After this time, any excess foam should be cut.

At the same time you want to view the finished site and determine whether it protruding joints. If any, need to use a special device - a float on the foam. This tool is similar to a conventional kitchen grater, but on the one hand he has a comfortable handle.

When using a float will be able to completely get rid of irregularities occurring in the joints (protruding parts). It is important to understand what will not be able to erase Epps a float, as it is in contrast to the foam is not removed. If you are using Epps, then get rid of the joints can be uneven, using stationery knife.

After performing all these operations, all the joints of the thermal insulation material and hats fungi should lubricate the adhesive mixture. In this case, it is best to use a large spatula (200 mm). All the places on which to apply the mixture should be smooth. If in the process of lubrication you see unevenness after drying the mixture to get rid of it. In this case, you can use the float or trowel.

The process differs gluing and nailing, if insulation is laid in two layers

In some cases it is required that the insulation thickness was 60-80 mm. This means that you have to use two layers of insulating material. For example, to achieve a thickness of 80 mm, it can be folded two sheets of material 50 and the thickness of 30 mm.

The first layer of heat-insulating material is glued as described above. That is, there are no changes for the first layer. Then proceed to gluing the second layer. Thus the sheets are arranged so as to cover joints sheets pore layer. When this adhesive mixture was applied to the better the sheet to be glued - so convenient. Layer is applied by comb evenly, whereupon the sheet material is pressed against a wall.

When two layers of insulation used, the joints of the first layer can not fill foam. Also, they can not overwrite. Cleaning can restrict protruding residual mixture in the joints. Zapenivat have joints that are on the second layer. This operation is performed after nailing.

When bonding sheets of the second layer is complete, proceed to nailing the insulation, using all the same fungi. This operation is performed in the same manner as described above. The only point on which there is focus, is the choice of the length of the fungus. It must be sufficient for the total thickness of insulation material.

And remember that if the two layers consist of Epps, the laminating roller needle requires the two sheets on both sides.

Next, consider the rules foam plaster. Also, look at all the preparatory work: preparation and the process of sticking plaster grid, the implementation of the grout, applying a special alignment layer, preparation of the mixture involved in foam plaster and grouting leveling layer.

The process of sticking the grid on all the corners of the building

Before the mesh is glued onto the plane of the wall, you should stick it on all the corners. In this case, we are talking not only about the corners of the building, but also on the angles formed on slopes, etc.

Angles can be done using a grid or a perforated plastic corner. In the process of flat insulating walls located in an apartment building and the floors located above the first grid can be used. If we are talking about a private home or apartment, located on the ground floor, it is best use area, as can sometimes exerts a mechanical influence on the angles building operation.

This step involves the replacement type mixture. At the beginning of used adhesive mixture, and now it will participate in the creation of a protective layer. Next will be described in more detail this issue.

Used mesh should be positioned as a "net external facade work" as well as it should have resistance to alkalis. Grid, which is designed for interior use, generally used on gypsum plaster. When used in the cement mixture, it razlezetsya. Recommended mesh density of 140-160 g / sq. m. Note that the larger the parameter mesh density, the more smooth surface out. However, the harder it will be to make the corner portions.

Proceed to the grid pasting angles. In this case, it will be described a variant using a grid, rather than over, as the work with the corners much easier, because they are sold as a finished product. Corners simply glued to the corner with the adhesive mixture. To manufacture the corners of the grid, it is required to cut out a strip having a width of 30 cm. For larger angles of the house you can use a strip with a width of 1 m, and for slope angles - depending on the length of the slopes themselves.

Taking a strip of mesh, bend it into two equal halves. In this case you need to make appropriate efforts to bend remained on the grid. Now larger spatula (200 mm) adhesive mixture was applied uniformly to the bracket. The thickness of the mixture should be 2-3 mm and the width of the applied strip should be about 5-7 cm on either side of the bend. Further impose greased foil and then smooth the spatula from the corner to the bottom and simultaneously the side, making the so-called diagonal movement.

As a result, we obtain the angle at which a grid of about 5-7 cm to both sides glued, and the remainder (approximately the same -5-7 cm) remains clean.

Little remains of the net mesh is a must, as this will be able to create the best mesh joints.

Note. Usually well sold in rolls and can therefore be used, cutting the desired width strips across. This will be obtained strip length of 1 m. And the need to fold the mesh so that its edge clamped to the corner (due cylindrical roll form).

grid pasting

Keep in mind that at this stage a mixture, creating a protective layer.

Viewed spatula step requires at least 350 mm. Work conducted on small plots having a width of about 90 cm and a length of 1 m. The width is 90 cm, 10 cm because it is necessary to leave a mesh net to further ensure best docking mesh. Height meter grid used just as in the good weather is dry mixture dries very quickly and need to keep up to put it in a timely manner, then the need to still put the net, as well as to iron with a spatula across the square piece. And if you are using pieces having a height of more than 1 meter, you can simply do not have time to perform all the steps.

Thus, we have site 1 m high and 90 cm wide, and which impose mixture. A small spatula use for laying the mixture on high. In this kind of sausage mixture stretched the width of a large spatula. Next, the mixture was put in a heater and stretch it uniformly. The mixture layer should have a thickness of about 2-3 mm. Further, putting a net in such a way that it 10 cm in width was put on a clean (non-lubricated) Epps or foam. Next, you need a wide spatula to smooth the applied mixture. Thus it is necessary to produce smoothing from the center outwards and downwards at the same time. The mesh should be evenly "get stuck" in the applied mixture. When the mesh smoothing it is necessary to add a bit of the mixture to the grid was covered. Normal view is the one when it is in the mix, but it is quite a bit of sight.

Note. Since it is not clear how the scaffolding will be constructed in the performance of tasks in specific areas, it is difficult to immediately determine what kind of area chosen for the job. One option is to gluing and nailing the insulation to the height of one floor and the width used scaffolding (2-3 m). Pasting grid must be carried out from the upper left corner of the selected area. Grid because curled into a roll and have to do a strip from top to bottom, without cutting the net, and you only need to attach the vertical joints. We start from the top, while on scaffolding, making 1.5-2 meters in height, and then climb down. Making the bottom, without making a grid of horizontal cuts.

grid joints

The principle by which to dock the vertical and horizontal joints of the same. It is necessary, as already described, leave the edge of 7-10 cm clean. Then a mixture of fluff must further extending portion, capturing clean strip cast grid overlapping 7-10 cm and all leveled with a spatula. Thus is possible to obtain smooth top joints characterized evenness and firmly fixed to each other.

Grout

Now the resulting surface consisting of a net adhered to the mixture, required carefully wipe. For this operation will need a plastic float, which is fastened sandpaper.

There are floats with netting, but they are for the grouting of the surface are not suitable and are only used in the production of in-house work. Rather to say that she does not float is not necessary, and mesh, instead of which must be installed sandpaper.

Grout is made after the mixture dries well. Recall that in the sunny and dry weather, complete drying takes only half a day. But the best take for drying the whole day, while performing work on another site. If it happens that during the grouting tool reaches the uncured mixture, then sandpaper immediately it needs to change, because it is not working properly rub.

Leveling layer

The application of the alignment layer is also performed by using a wide spatula (350 mm). A small spatula still impose the mixture on high, and then spread it all on the wall. Tolschinka 2-3 mm, and the layer should be applied to separate portions have been joined blend well. It is recommended to do so that the joints of reinforcement and leveling layers do not coincide.

Types mixture and its density

There are many manufacturers offering facade mixture and exterior. The most famous of them: Kraysel, Master, tables, Ceresit, Ekomiks, current. Each of these compounds allows you to make high-quality facade. But we should not forget about some of the points that will be discussed below:

If plate Epps or foam insulation used in the process, then the packaging of the mixture must be specified "for polystyrene plates."

There are universal mixture, allowing to perform gluing of the plates and create a protective layer. And also exist mixture intended only for attaching plates. Therefore, specify the information to the seller, as some manufacturers produce only universal mixture, and some - and those and others.

How to knead and how consumption

Consumption mixture varies depending on the degree of unevenness of the wall, and is usually 4-6 kg per sq. M. The proportions are usually specified by the manufacturer on the packaging, but should adhere to the following guidelines:

• For attaching plates is better to use a thick mixture than the manufacturer recommends. If it is put on the spatula, the mixture should be similar to the jelly: Do not spill and keep the shape.
• Grid Tipping can be done Bole liquid consistency than that specified by the manufacturer. The density is determined in practice by adjusting - Mesh's okay to get caught in it, and the leveling process should be quite simple.
• To create an alignment layer is best to use a mixture that is still thinner than the mixture used for attaching the mesh. However, it must not drain from the spatula.

Grout leveling layer

In this case, the operation is performed in the same way as the floating layer which is adhered to a grid. Use the same trowel with sandpaper. Before performing grout leveling layer is not necessary to install a new sandpaper.

Primer

Perret performing finishing requires primed facade. If you plan to use decorative plaster, then the next must be used appropriate a primer in which the packaging states that it is intended for priming reinforced protection layer. When considering this primer there will be observed something similar to fine sand. Recommended Brand - Ceresit CT 16. In those cases when it is not performed decorative plaster facade need to use a primer type Ceresit CT 17 (no sand) and paint.

General questions concerning the work sequence

Work, doing some areas, it is better to the stage when pasted grid already overwritten. That is divided into sections should all work coming before applying a leveling layer. At some point, the whole house will be pasted grid. Then planarization layer is applied (in portions). Then, the primer, and only then - a fine finish.

Do not forget to create a quality drainage system to the surface of the plaster fell as low as possible amount of moisture. This will keep the attractive appearance, prolong heater life and preserve its effectiveness. The result will be high-quality insulation and a beautiful view of the house!