Seven of my "whales" for seedlings of peppers. The fifth "whale" will surprise many

The first is the seeding depth

It is necessary to sow pepper seeds exactly to a depth of 2 cm.

I once read the advice of Galina Kizima and buried the seeds by 3 cm, they did not break through! Maybe she sowed in the sand, ordinary purchased soil does not understand such experiments. By the way, the advice was 3-4 cm! And she did well.

And if you deepen it by 1 cm, as some advise, there will be seedlings “in caps”, the seed coat will not be removed in the ground.

The second one is warm feet

The pepper should have warm feet. I don't even put quotation marks, so this idea reflects the main success in growing peppers. Accordingly, when sowing, the soil should be warm, the water for irrigation should be warm, 30 degrees, and on the cold windowsill I put warm coasters for pepper.

My very first pepper froze on a cold windowsill, and I could not bring it to life in a season.

Third - give the seeds warmth

For germination, seeds need at least + 25 ° C, and preferably + 30 ° C, then the temperature is sharply reduced. I have + 19 ° C on my windowsill, this is great for pepper tips, and the roots should remain warm.

All advice about a lower temperature for germination is harmful. Yes, the pepper will sprout at + 20 ° C, but you will waste time, and the seed will lose the strength to germinate.

Fourth - light, light, light

Pepper o-o-o-loves light very much, especially full sun. I liked this method: round-the-clock supplementary lighting with phytolamps in the first 3 days, regardless of the planting time. Then 12 hours of daylight hours, even with phytolamps, even with the sun.

This year, the twelve o'clock day in Kursk will come on March 18. And when in your area, you can easily find on the Internet, there are sites with such information.

If I have time to buy another phytolamp for another window sill, I will make such a round-the-clock illumination. If not, the pepper will be lit for 14 hours along with tomatoes and petunias.

Fifth - it is useful to dive young seedlings under the cotyledons

It is not necessary to dive, you can pour it under the cotyledons. The subcotyledon knee in the aboveground part is a conductor, something like a highway. Not more. After sprinkling, instead of an extra conductor, you will get not an extra root system.

I dive peppers from a general container for 6-8 days. They don't stop growing. And I don't touch it anymore. I read that they also dive under the cotyledons later, but did not check.

Sixth - pepper always loves to eat

I liked how the pepper reacts to vermicompost so much that this year I will intensify its feeding. I will sow the seeds in ordinary soil for seedlings, and dive in 50% vermicompost, plus some of my homemade compost and Diatomite. Who cares, then I will write in more detail what and why.

Seventh - optimal planting capacity

Small containers in the initial period are good because they can be placed under a phytolamp, and all seedlings will receive maximum light. Large containers will have less and uneven lighting. If only someone has global illumination of the entire window sill.

In addition, besides pepper, there are still many who want to soak up the lamps. The smaller the original containers, the more plants will fit under the right lighting.

After a dive, it's another matter. The subsistence minimum for pepper is a planting capacity of 0.5 liters, and 0.7 liters is already optimal. After all, the window sills are not rubber.

I look forward to your additions, my experienced friends!

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