Caulking at home. How and what to caulk a wooden house
Before continuing to read, let's define the basic concepts of what is caulking at home and why it is needed.
According to Dahl's Explanatory Dictionary:
CAULK, caulk - punch cracks, grooves hemp (hemp, tow, cotton, moss, etc.).
Caulk all watercraft and boats. Caulkhut.
Cauliflower a log house is necessary for every wooden house. Classic caulk is sealing the grooves between log cabins at the stage of building houses and baths with insulating material in order to prevent heat loss, etc.
In simple terms, digging a house is “sealing grooves”, like sealing cracks and cracks in log cabins in order to maximally prevent the house from being blown out and retain heat.
From experience I can say that insulation inside the house with subsequent finishing (wall panels, tiles, etc. etc.) does not save the house from heat loss, blowing and the appearance of "infection" between the logs with fungus and mold. Of course, painting and treatment with antiseptic materials will save the wooden frame from "diseases", but not for long. Manufacturers of paints give guarantees for this no more than 10 years. Then the house will need to be painted and processed again.
Therefore, no one will save your house from caulking, which means you need to do it.
So what is modern caulking and other ways to seal joints and holes in the walls of your houses.
Traditional caulking of seams with flax or tow is carried out repeatedly: at the time of laying the log, then immediately after the construction of the house, then after the initial shrinkage and finally, after the house acquires its final shape.
The sealant is used only once, and its durability is considered to be decades, not years of operation.
Caulking is usually done in wooden houses that have already received shrinkage, which takes five years or more. But after the house is built, all the flaws will very soon become visible. And no matter how good the log masters fold the house, all the problems of a wooden house will become visible to the naked eye.
In modern wooden house-building, when crowns are laid, tow is laid between them, which primarily serves as a kind of insulation. But, the family is not without its black sheep (I'm not talking about craftsmen), and in hundreds of houses made of rounded logs, there are several logs that will give crack, "turn out", which will give cracks, grooves and cracks in the inter-logs, which must be insulated again, ie fill up cracks and caulk. And, of course, the corners of the log house, which, if not insulated during the laying of the house, will still show through and between the crowns they will be visible from the inside of the beauty house of the village sky, and in the morning the sun will break through.
Traditional seals include tow, jute or linen fibers, and combinations thereof. But at the slightest defects in natural padding insects start and microorganisms multiply. And sometimes even birds and small rodents steal fibers from crevices to insulate their own nests.
Sealant for seams of a wooden house It is used to fill inter-row joints, grooves between timber or cracks in coatings. The synthetic material does not contain solvents, antiseptics and other harmful substances. Thermal insulation joint sealant for wood possesses considerable strength, adhesive properties and service life up to 20 years.
I also built a house, made of logs, (the link is detailed with drawings and a story and a photo). House size 10x11 on one floor. The log was dry and super good. A team of craftsmen from Tver, there are no complaints about them AT ALL. But a few years later, a problem arose that required surgical intervention, cracks, cracks and drafts appeared between the logs. Diagnosis - Caulking of my wooden structure is required.
And then it began. What I have not read, what I have not heard enough about how and why caulk at home. I spent a year in Runet studying the topic “how to caulk a log house correctly”. All in vain. The impression was that ...
Or people are stupidly bred for money (up to 120 rubles per linear meter, the cost of caulking at home, WITHOUT TAKING INTO ACCOUNT THE COST OF THE MATERIAL), long explaining to the client why it is necessary to caulk, and why only THIS company of old drunken masters retained the experience of correct caulking at home.
Or they copy and paste other people's articles, turn them over in their own way and write everything about the same thing, not even an gram of understanding the essence of the very process of burning a house.
I read this informational shit with two ORs and decided to tackle the issue of warming my bathhouse on my own using modern technologies, i.e. not walking in the woods looking for the right moss, not running through construction markets, buying a good tow, etc.
Of course, I took away some of all the "water" on the Internet about caulking wooden houses, which I used at the first stage (caulking the guest room in the gazebo), but then, I I understood the main thing, let's say, confirmed the truths and..., throwing everything out of my head the foreign experience acquired in Runet, even the modern one: caulking with modern insulating sealants. I began to do home insulation using my own method, which I share with those who decide to try to seal their house, without appeals to third-party firms and left-handed craftsmen who have long lost not only the experience of their grandfathers, but without acquiring their own, do not even try look around and do the caulking business on modern conditions and with normal tools, which, as practice has shown, plays PRIMARY role.