Homemade jigsaw machine. Customization. Part 2

IN last publication I talked about how I made a jigsaw machine out of wood and promised to talk about setting up. I keep my promise.

On the Internet, you can find many designs of homemade jigsaw machines. Unfortunately, many of them look more like mock-ups of machine tools and at best you can only saw out large parts from thin plywood, because such crafts do not provide for adjustment, hence the increased vibration, the files are torn, a file on thick material takes away ...

So, how I set up my machine and what customization options are present in it.

Initially, when I assembled the machine and put the jigsaw and pusher on it, the holes in the pusher and the rod did not match slightly.

I adjusted this by lengthening the mounting holes of the jigsaw so that you could change its position.

I set the jigsaw so that the bar lowered into the pusher exactly without distortions, and so that the pusher itself, when the jigsaw was turned on, moved strictly vertically.

If you look at the lower bar from above, then it should move vertically without deviations to the sides. That is, with the correct setting, there is a feeling that the bar remains in place when moving up and down.

This is the first step in setting up when using a jigsaw as a machine motor.

When I installed the pulley system and the induction motor, it had to be set up a little differently. I could not fix the connecting rod so that it would go strictly vertically, so I clamped it from above between two bearings.

This helped ensure smooth vertical travel of the lower boom.

IN last article I have not touched on the method of mounting the table, because it is more related to setting up the machine.

On the block with rods, I fixed a block with a bolt in the center. It serves as a support and pivot point for the table.

In the front part, a half of a plywood circle is screwed to the table on furniture corners. It rests on the front legs and is pressed against the base of the machine using a bar that is attracted by a screw.

The height of the table is set so that the file holder is flush with the bottom of the table.

This allows you to cut parts over 50 mm.

In a properly set up machine, the file in motion should look like a clear line.

This can be achieved by moving the saw hangers to the left or right. The photo shows that the suspension is slightly turned to the left and if you put it straight, the file will no longer walk smoothly and will begin to blur when moving.

That is, by adjusting the hangers to the left - to the right, you can adjust the vertical, even stroke of the file.

The second part of the setup is the right angle to the side of the file. There are two ways to set up here.

The first way is through suspensions. They can be moved forward or backward and thus set the right angle.

The second way is to move the table support bar.

You can also adjust the right angle by raising or lowering the far edge of the table.

With this setting, you can cut thick material along small radii and the file will cut cylinders, not cones.

For greater clarity, I propose to watch a video clip about setting up such a homemade machine.

See machine drawings in the first part.

Thanks for reading. I would be glad to have your support in the form of a like and a subscription to the channel. And see other publications on the channel.

Alexander.

P.S. I also invite you to your site.