A carpenter neighbor told how to screw in a self-tapping screw flush without countersinking and pressed wood

Have you ever twisted self-tapping screws flush? If so, then you have a good idea of ​​how much time is wasted and manipulations are carried out to change the countersink to bits. This is not a problem if you make indentations under the screw head for the entire project at once - you put a drill and countersink yourself; changed to a bit and screwed in all the screws.

But what if you need to alternately countersink and fix 8-10 holes, and there are about two hundred of them in the project?

It would seem that the presence of two screwdrivers, or "shura" and a drill, saves. But, for example, when working at height, an extra tool only interferes. There is also a high probability that one of the instruments will fall.

In addition, I do not like to work with a bat clamped in a screwdriver chuck. It is much better if it is in a magnetic bit holder. This is because if you clamp the bit into the chuck, then after a few screwed-in self-tapping screws, the chuck is loosened and the bit falls out. Enrages terribly.

How to get out of the situation? The method, which I will describe further, was suggested to me by a neighbor. He works in a carpentry workshop, and sometimes throws me such "life hacks".

To do this, we need black wood screws (the same size that will be screwed in in the future), a grinder with a thin cutting disc and pliers. It is better to fix the grinder in a vice. Holding it in one hand and a self-tapping screw in the other is not the safest thing to do.

Tighten the self-tapping screw with pliers. In no case do not hold it with your fingers, they will still be useful to you. We turn on the grinder at low speeds and make 2 oblique grooves under the screw head. After that, we cut off the cap - the countersink is ready.

You can now work with one bit in the bit holder. Better if the bit is magnetic.

But consider 2 points:

• When drilling a hole with such a "mini countersink", you need to swing it in different directions. The cutting edge is not there, as such. The wood is cut with sharp groove edges.
• During operation, this device heats up. Literally 5 holes and you can't take it in your hands - you can get burned. Therefore, I recommend that you prepare a couple of dozen of them at once and not be distracted by this.

Let me summarize. Previously, the process of countersinking and fastening looked like this:

• I screwed a chuck for drills onto a screwdriver (in my screwdriver, the chuck is removed and a magnetic hexagon under the bit remains);
• then clamped the drill (countersink);
• drilled holes with a recess for the fastener head;
• then he took off the countersink and clamped the bit;
• twisted the screws.

The process is now much easier:

• I make a recess with a mini countersink;
• screw in a self-tapping screw.

I hope the way I am using will be helpful to you.

Subscribe to the channel and read other helpful tips and interesting building stories:

A story from the life of one foreman - Customer "Lech and his sharp nose!"

How to protect wood from rotting and cracking once and for all? - Homemade impregnation - economical and durable