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DIY 360 degree laser level

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Assembly idea homemade laser level matured for more than one day, but still could not find a suitable motor. And so, I remembered that an old one was already lying in the closet for about 7 years HP printer, in which the desired engine should be. After disassembling the printer, there were even two of them of different power, in the end I chose the one that was slightly stronger, to what extent, however, I cannot say. So let's get started.

Photo 1.
Photo 1.

I use a small block as a base, to which I first mount the engine. For this, a clamp with a fastening for a 25 mm pipe came in handy. For better crimping, I flattened it a little, then clamped the motor with a couple of bolts.

Photo 2.
Photo 2.

Hole at the end for fastening the clamp not in the middle of the bar, but below. Further it will be clear why it is so necessary. I tighten the clamp with the engine to the start of the thread for the nut, this is enough, the main thing is to set it horizontally, which is important.

Photo 3.
Photo 3.

Now from above with self-tapping screws I fasten the supports under

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laser pointer - the only thing that I had to buy on purpose, the rest was found at home. Two supports made of plastic bottle caps. I cut holes in them along the diameter of the pointer and screwed them according to its length.

Photo 4.
Photo 4.

I put the pointer in traffic jams. Superprecision is not needed here, but it is better to withstand the horizontal. In this position, the button for turning on the pointer is always available for movement when turning it on / off.

Photo 5.
Photo 5.

A mirror must be installed on the motor shaft. First I put it on the gear on the shaft dowel cut 10 mm, in which a vertical cut is made under the mirror. Later, I additionally filled the mirror at the attachment point with hot melt glue so that it would not jump out guaranteed.

The height of the mirror should be so that the pointer beam hits the center above the dowel, which is why the engine needed to be mounted lower.
Photo 6.
Photo 6.

To be able to serve the exact lines, I decided to screw on the small bubble level remaining from the chokline set. It then had to be adjusted exactly to the horizon. And from the end of this level, I screwed another bubble level, quite small, taken from an old broken level. This will allow you to beat off the exact horizon line not along one wall, but along the entire perimeter.

Photo 7.
Photo 7.

Fastened from below mount for plastic pipe 20mm, which will hold a homemade level on a homemade tripod long used for video recording. It remains to connect the power supply.

Photo 8.
Photo 8.

From crown 9B the engine works fine, but I decided to also try to run from the charger from the old Motorola C350 and it also came up, although it seemed only for 4.8V. The main thing is working and the speed is about the same as on the crown. So I can use both sources.

Photo 9.
Photo 9.

After the launch, everything worked out, the line on the wall is solid, and if you set the level correctly in an empty room, then it takes everything 360 gr. It is the same vertically, only additional tuning is required and even later I will put an additional bubble.

How this thing actually works is shown at the end of the video below. Rate and share your thoughts.

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