3 main rules for pruning pears in the spring. We get delicious Juicy fruits in summer without any hassle

One of the most popular fruit trees in the world, the pear, is famous for its "capricious character" - to get a generous tasty harvest, a gardener needs a lot of work.

But it just so happened that looking after pears is not at all a burden for me. And there are no secrets here - I only adhere to the basic principles of agricultural culture.

And I'm ready to share the fact that spring pruning lays the foundations for a tree's prosperous life for the entire current season. The main thing is to remember her three golden rules.

First - Removing the necessary

First, I do sanitary pruning - I remove diseased and broken branches. Then I get rid of those branches that intersect with each other.

In addition, in the spring, to stimulate fruiting, you need to cut off the branches:

· Growing at an excessively acute angle of discharge less than 40-45 degrees;

· Located vertically on skeletal branches, also called "tops";

• directed downward, that is, growing at an obtuse angle;

· Located below the first tier.

If in the sum of the branches removed there is less than half of the total number on the tree, I recommend additionally shortening “by bud” all branches that represent a one-year growth.

Second - Rescue a frozen tree

Last year, a harsh, snowless winter seriously damaged my pear garden, so it seemed that one could forget about juicy fruits in summer. But after consulting an experienced gardener friend, I realized that there was still room for improvement.

First of all, I carefully examined the trees - the frozen wood is black or strange brown.

Then, in mature trees, those branches that were almost completely frozen were cut into a ring, and the affected apical parts were removed to healthy wood.

It was possible to save even a one-year-old pear, planted since autumn, simply by shortening it by 1/3 of its height. And the young seedling recovered quickly.

Third - Caring after pruning

Any haircut is always stressful for the tree. Moisture or pathogens of bacterial, fungal infections can penetrate into the sections.

Therefore, the sections must be quickly processed with garden varnish or RanNet putty paste.

A problem may arise if, after a kind of treatment, the air temperature drops below 0 ° C - then the var or paste freezes and partially peels off.

But I found a way out - if a cold snap is possible in the first 3 days after pruning, I just get by with linseed oil.