Tulips don't bloom? I'll tell you how to make

Fiery fireworks, fellow flower growers!

Do you want to see the beautiful blooming of tulips every spring, but your wards can only boast of rich greenery? It is necessary to find the reason why the bulb does not form a peduncle, and fix the problem. In the article you will find out what to sin for.

I started with simple "grandmother's" tulips, which I got along with the plot. And now I love the fringed and the "Triumph" series. But in both cases, I ran into a problem - the tulip is growing leaves, but does not want to bloom.

It could be the bulb itself.

The bulb is the heart of every tulip. Here, replacement bulbs are formed and, what is important for us, the rudiments of the future peduncle. But too young or infected bulb refuses to form it.

When buying a new tulip variety, the gardener looks first at the picture. I understand very well! But, holding the coveted bag in your hands, be sure to look at the object of purchase itself: sometimes unscrupulous sellers send "young animals" to the counters

. After all, this way the manufacturer spends less time growing the product. This means that it increases sales and revenue.

My experience: When making a remote order in the online store, try to choose planting material from "trusted" companies.

Scientifically, the size of the bulb is called "parsing". Each type of tulip has its own for a mature specimen.. But the circumference of an adult bulb is at least 10-12 cm. Hence, the minimum diameter to ensure that you are holding a ready-to-bloom bulb is 3.5-4 cm.

On a note: Have you bought a young onion? Do not be discouraged, she will definitely delight you. But maybe just a little later. In the meantime, grow it on a fertile and sunny flower bed, accelerating the set of strength with organic and mineral fertilizers

While time will do its job with young tulip bulbs, but with infected bacteria, fungi and pests it is not so simple:

• A diseased bulb spends energy on survival, and not on the formation of a peduncle.
• There is no timely treatment - in the near future there is no bulb itself. And the process of going to the flower heaven will definitely be accompanied by a beautiful flowering.
• An infected specimen, planted at random, is likely to infect neighbors.

Severely damaged bulbs are easier to discard. Planting material that has been partially damaged so far, you can try to leave: identify the problem and do the appropriate treatment.

for example. The tick, gnawing the bottom of the bulb, is driven away by soaking in hot (moderately, of course!) Water and acaricide. Modern fungicides such as "Maxim" and "Previkur" fight well against fungal diseases. But a dangerous viral spot will not drive anything away - it is necessary to quickly destroy the unlucky bulb

A little about nutrition

I would not say that tulips love to eat so much. But on poor soils, they refuse to bloom or do it after a year: the plant does not have enough nutrients for the proper formation of the peduncle.

Interesting fact: The most important tulip feeding is after flowering. It is during this period that the bulb is "renewed", laying the potential for the next year. I'll write a detailed article about this soon: subscribe so as not to miss it!

I do 2 dressings for the whole season:

• In early spring, when tulip leaves have just appeared on the flower garden, I treat my favorite flower with nitrogen fertilizer (for example, urea).
• After flowering - complete mineral fertilization with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium. Sometimes it is granular, sometimes it is a soluble sachet. I try to choose products in which, in addition to macroelements, there are also microelements: zinc, magnesium, iron.

This is how tulips get good nutrition!

Dig it or not?

Some growers diligently dig up the bulbs every summer, while others consider such a manipulation an unnecessary procedure and obscurantism. "They've been growing like that all their life!" Who is right?

The fact is that the tulip bulb tends to gradually go underground. When the soil layer above it becomes critical, the peduncle will not be able to normally break through above the surface.

On a note: How quickly it will happen - no one knows. Bulbs of different types and even varieties differ in shape, weight, diameter. And the soil is the soil of strife. One variety will disappear in the bowels of the flower bed in 3 years, and, for example, "grandmothers" can grow without transplanting in one place for decades. And even with varying degrees of success, it is not bad to bloom

But to count all tulips, I advise you to dig up the bulbs at least once every 2-3 years. At the same time, you can plant in a new place, transforming the garden, and check the health of the bulbous wards.

Do you like tulips and was this article helpful? Please put "Thumbs up" in response, thanks my dears. And I recommend that fans of "Queen of Shadows" read: I check my hosts every spring. I'll tell you what is more correct to do with a crawled rhizome