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How to install a door frame in an opening without spacers

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Photo 1. Opening in a plasterboard partition.
Photo 1. Opening in a plasterboard partition.

I will not talk about all the details of installing the interior door, I will just share, due to what it turns out to do without the use of spacers when foaming the loot and even, if you like, without a long regulations.

In this case, the installation of the door was carried out in the opening of a plasterboard partition, which stood like this for 5 years. MDF door leaf, allegedly covered with PVC film, although in fact PVC does not smell here. But that's another story.

I also use the shown method when installing in brick openings, only I have to additionally use a perforator and dowels.

Photo 2.
Photo 2.

The bottom line is that 5-6 holes are drilled for self-tapping screws with a pitch of 30-35 cm in the assembled tray along the entire length of the vertical racks, at the installation site of the decorative strip. Pre-hole pen drill 10 mm small indentations are made. The diameter of the through holes should be slightly larger than the thickness of the self-tapping screws used so that they move freely in the tray.

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When all the holes are ready, the loot is first leveled and fixed with wedges, and then self-tapping screws are screwed to the required depth. Since here the opening is mounted from a metal profile, the screws were twisted into it very easily.
Photo 3.
Even if the trap is bent in one direction, due to self-tapping screws, irregularities are easily straightened. If it is bent outward from the canvas, then an additional wedge can be substituted in this place before foaming.

After blowing out the loot with polyurethane foam (only with foam, you must not overdo it), the self-tapping screws do not allow it to change position, therefore no spacers are required. But even after the foam has hardened, if necessary, with self-tapping screws, you can still make the final adjustment of the position of the racks of the loot. So you can squeeze the loot and release.

Photo 4.

If the opening is made in masonry, then I drill holes of 6 or 8 mm under the screws with a puncher, depending on the thickness of the screws and insert the dowels there.

The upper and lower crossbars are attached exactly like this, with 1-3 screws.
Photo 5.

If you are interested in considering the process of installing a similar door from start to finish, write in the comments and a detailed article on this topic will appear. Also share your experience in door installation.

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