Are there many Netherflowers on tomatoes? I tell you what needs to be done to set fruit
Flowering is one of the most critical periods in the tomato growing cycle. The future harvest directly depends on how abundant the formation of ovaries will be.
For several years I was upset because of many barren flowers, but then, after studying scientific books about botany, I realized what the problem was. And I think this information will be useful to many gardeners.
First of all, I advise you to remember the weather of the last days. If the air temperature is kept stable at + 28 ° or even higher, then tomato pollen becomes sterile. The way out is to lower it, for which the tomatoes should be shaded with a special mesh material.
Tomatoes need a lot of water at the time of fruit setting - 3-5 liters per plant with a frequency of 1-4 times a week - it all depends on how hot it is.
But naturally, the absence of normal fruit setting may have more reasons than these two.
One of the most rarely seen explanations is the lack of pollinators. The fact is that despite the fact that many popular varieties of tomatoes are considered self-pollinated, this does not negate the fact that two conditions are desirable for the full appearance of ovaries:
· The presence of air currents, that is, the breeze;
· The presence of pollinating insects.
The latter can be lured by spraying flowering bushes with honey or sugar water.
In a greenhouse, you often need to open a door with windows for active air circulation.
Tomatoes in the open field can, in principle, be carefully pollinated by hand with a brush.
The most effective fruit-setting substance is boric acid. But it is important, keeping in mind its toxicity, to apply the product little by little.
Based on personal experience, I can say that it is enough to carry out just two sprays of tomatoes in order to prevent boron deficiency:
· Immediately after the formation of buds;
· At the very beginning of flowering.
To prepare the solution, combine 3 g of boric acid and 10 l of water.
Barren flowers can be explained by the oversaturation of the soil with nitrogen due to previously applied fertilizing. Unfortunately, it is difficult to "withdraw" it. But you can increase the frequency of watering, precisely by quantity per week, and not by volume.
And also when loosening tomato beds, add sand to them, which contributes to the fact that nitrogen sinks into the lower layers of the soil.
Summing up, I want to say that, ideally, you need to make sure that there are no barren flowers from the very spring, observing the basic rules of tomato agricultural technology. This is much easier and more effective than dealing with an existing problem.