How to reinstall the toilet if the fasteners are rusted
An acquaintance called and asked reinstall the toilet, whose fasteners are rotted (corroded) from dampness. He said that he was already tired of "riding" on it, and that he was afraid to break the water line and flood the neighbors. At first I did not understand him, since there was a tile in the toilet and, it seemed, there was no obvious dampness, but when I looked at the situation on the spot, I realized that he was completely right.
The standard socket head cap screws did indeed decay in the middle to a brown powder (photo 1). Their tops were closed with plugs, so the owner did not understand why the toilet goes back and forth.
Flexible hose no, the toilet is connected via a hard connection from PVC pipes with MNG (coupling with a union nut), which could break at any time from movements or tilting the toilet to the side.
All this meant that there was no possibility to move the toilet bowl forward or backward and it was necessary to reattach it into the same holes, with barely noticeable tops of rusted screws sticking out. Since it was not possible to pull out the old fasteners, it was necessary to do something else.
First I decided to push the remnants of the screws into the floor as deep as possible. To do this, I used the first bolt I came across and knocked on it with a hammer. As a result, the bits of both screws managed to sink down by 1-1.5 cm (photo 2).
Now that at least some hole has formed, I loaded it into the puncher drill 10 mm,for the size of the dowel from the new fixing kit for the toilet, and began to drill a hole for them, despite the fact that there was a piece of old fasteners in it. Not in a hurry, but things were not going badly enough and not too slow.
I did not even fully understand what the punch drill did with the old fasteners. Either he moved them a little to the side, or drilled right through the metal, it was not visible. I did not find any metal fragments outside.
There were also some drawbacks. The drill chipped a little the tile around the holes, the former diameter of which seemed to be smaller, probably 8 mm. Chips happened due to the fact that at the beginning, when the wide victorious soldering was still close to the entrance to the hole, it was necessary to punch through the metal and the drill fidgeted a little from side to side.
After installing the toilet, the chips remained under it and are not visible at all, so I think such a drawback in such a case is quite acceptable.
The dowels easily fell into place, after which he put the toilet in the same position, inserted the plastic inserts and tightened the screws with a socket wrench.
Why the fixing screws rotted for me remained a mystery, since there is no water leakage in the room, the humidity is normal.
This is how this non-standard issue was resolved. If the liner was flexible, then it would be possible to slightly move the toilet in any direction and install through new holes in other places, but the rigid eyeliner did not allow this to be done and decided to do it as described. What do you think of this reinstallation method?
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