15 ways to additionally insulate a frame house
Frame houses, even when properly assembled, have some vulnerabilities and weaknesses in terms of heat loss that can manifest themselves in cold climates. Let's look at 15 ways of additional warming of the frame from the user of our portal under the nickname forumframe.
Tips for insulating a frame house
- Plank floor logs are natural cold bridges. In addition, if the insulation is loosely installed, voids may remain. Bridgings are often installed. To reduce heat loss, when using a floor log with a section of 200 * 50 mm, it is possible to make bridging from a board of 150 * 50 mm. Thus, covering the bridgings with insulation and reducing cold bridges and closing voids.
- A known method of filing a subfloor is cranial bars on which an inch or slab material is placed. The problem is the "eating" of the board height, up to 60 mm, which does not allow to fit the insulation to the entire height of the log. Considering the weight of the insulation, the solution may be overkill. The solution is simple, remove the cranial bars, and make support from the inch from the outside, if the distance to the ground under the house allows.
- Often, in our climate, the standard insulation of 150 mm (the standard width of the rack of a frame house) is clearly not enough. Racks are bridges of cold, there are voids, poor-quality or loose insulation, and, most importantly, frosts in winter! The solution is standard and logical - to add cross insulation, a layer of insulation 50–100 mm, do it perpendicular to the posts, thereby blocking them.
- Freezing and blowing through the corners of the house or the places where the internal walls adjoin to the outside are a common cause of a cold house. This is relatively easy to fix. It is required to perform a warm corner in a frame house. This node is often forgotten in the Russian frame housing construction.
- In a house with an attic or a serviced attic, it is much more efficient to insulate with an additional layer of insulation. Warm air will naturally accumulate at the top of the building, therefore, it is advisable to keep it there longer. This is usually done from the inside of the ceiling and walls of the attic or roof. In our climate, energy efficiency will be high with an insulation layer of 250 mm or more. Of course, this also depends on the quality of the insulation.
- A frame house should be built only from dry boards. Often in Russia they build from a board of natural moisture. It's cheaper. Even if you find drying boards, it is far from a fact that there will be compliance with the conditions and the required moisture content of the lumber at the exit. So the boards will lead. And also, almost everywhere we have band sawmills. This means that the geometry of the board is floating, to put it mildly. This will lead to voids and possible freezing and blowing. The solution is simple, wherever the boards are adjacent to each other, including at the ends of the racks, put jute insulation. This measure will help reduce heat loss.
- This point comes from the previous one. Use a dry board whenever possible. So that it is no less led and gaps and voids do not form. This will also prevent mold from forming, or moisture will not go into the insulation. Moisture in the insulation reduces its density and leads to rapid settling after 1–3 years.
- Take the time to figure out which insulation to use. In fact, the cost of insulation on the scale of the house is not so great, and it is probably not worth saving on this point. You need to choose a good or thicker insulation. Not worth buying the cheapest one in the nearest store. Moreover, when purchasing for the volume of the house, discounts are made, and the difference between the cheapest and the highest quality is reduced. Why spend a lot on heating when operating a house, or insulate it. The cost of insulation, energy consumption and heat loss can and should be calculated at the design stage.
- A weak point in a frame house in terms of energy efficiency and heat loss is where the boards fit. In particular, double pillars, window pillars and exterior door pillars. These places require special attention. Usually, jute insulation is laid here. Another solution - in the openings of windows and doors, adjacent pillars can be placed at a distance of 40–50 mm, insulation can be placed in this void.
- Glue or tightly connect the windscreen from the outside. This will help reduce blowing through under the façade. Definitely, this must be done for vapor protection from the inside.
- Do not tamp the insulation. Install as is, with little stress. Otherwise, it will lose its thermal insulation properties.
- Reduce the number of racks as much as possible, reduce the number of double racks. Since they are cold bridges. The main thing is not to overdo it, everything is in accordance with the bearing characteristics and the design load. And also the situation for the floor of the lower floor. It is more efficient to put a board with a section of 200 * 50 mm in 600 mm increments than 150 * 50 with a smaller step, in order to achieve, for example, a bearing load per sq. m. according to SNiP, thereby teaching the number of cold bridges.
- It is imperative to provide a vestibule in the project. As a buffer or a kind of gateway, in which a gradual exchange of air from the street and indoors will take place. This is important for permanent residence houses.
- Insulate and install external doors and windows qualitatively. Install special insulated windows with several double-glazed windows. The main heat loss goes through them. If this is not done, for obvious reasons, the rest of the insulation, no matter how well it is done, will not help to avoid a cold house.
- Build a quality foundation. Correctly close and insulate, make a blind area MZLF or any pile, grillage. Probably better than USHP, however, a rather expensive type of foundation.
How do you insulate your house for winter? Write in the comments!
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