When and how to dive Eustoma, so as not to rush and not be late. Basic rules help avoid problems and stimulate growth
Flaming fireworks, fellow flower growers and eustoma growers in particular!
Today on the agenda - all the subtleties of picking eustoma (lisianthus). This is an important event in the life of a flower, capricious in every sense. The further fate of the beautiful "rose" depends on the correctness of the event. In the long term, the beauty of flowering, because childhood lays the foundation for the entire life of garden plants.
When to dive for eustoma
There are 2 ways to plant eustoma: in small plastic containers and peat tablets. At the first stage of seedling growth, they need just a small amount of soil. But as they grow, the situation changes dramatically: young plants can no longer be content with a small space.
When there is not enough space for the eustoma and it is time to transplant it into a larger pot:
- Seedling enlargement until 2-3 pairs of true leaves appear. Not cotyledons, which appear first, but characteristic of eustoma. Under standard growth conditions, 4-6 leaves appear approximately 6-8 weeks after sowing. In practice, for flower growers, the time from planting to the first pick may differ: different soil, conditions, varieties. But it is 2-3 pairs of leaves that are a constant signal that it is time to take a pick.
- When the roots of the eustoma appeared at the bottom of the peat tablet and braided it under the net. Usually, the growth of the root system coincides with the growth of the top of the plant.
Comrade, do not rush: it is too early to take a dive - to stir up a still immature plant. Eustoma is considered a vulnerable flower especially in the seedling stage. To be late with transplanting into a large container means not to give the space necessary for exemplary development in time.
What to prepare for picking eustoma: everything you need is at hand
First of all, you need to take new containers for the life of an eustoma of a suitable volume. Plastic cups or seedling containers of about 200-300 ml each will give the seedlings a sufficient amount of fresh soil. And they won't be too big, provoking the bay. An alternative option would be pots 6–8 cm in diameter.
The second important criterion is priming. It should be loose and free of excess nutrients. Comrade, do not take land from the garden, because there is an unpredictable composition. Ready-made substrates "For seedlings" based on neutralized high-moor peat are excellent. Before planting, pour the right amount of soil into a saucer to throw out large inclusions (for example, peat fibers) and break up dense lumps.
To avoid fungal diseases - mold or a fatal black leg - after transplanting, it will be useful to shed the soil with "Fitosporin". If you have encountered the problem of fungi before, buy a bag in advance. It is inexpensive - it helps to avoid problems.
How to transplant eustoma seedlings: a simple instruction
Eustoma roots are very sensitive. After a careless transplant, seedlings often come to their senses for 3-4 weeks, starting to lag behind in development. Do not destroy the earthen lump of a weak plant - transplant into a larger pot by careful handling.
To do this, first prepare a new container by pouring soil into it and making a depression for the seedling. Gently pry the eustoma with a stick or the handle of a teaspoon, insert it into the ground at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the seedling and lift the soil up.
There was little left to do: plant the plant in a pre-made recess and sprinkle all the voids with earth, slightly tamping it. For the next week, avoid direct sunlight and drying out of the soil on the delicate leaves of the eustoma. Water the soil gently from the "pear" as needed, being careful not to erode the soil.
Now every Lisianthus seedling has a personal pot! Do you like eustoma and was the article helpful to you? Comrades, then put a thumbs up in response!