5 important nuances when building a bath! Reader experience. We tell and show!

Hello everyone! We continue the new rubric #reader_experiences, in which subscribers of the BUILDER BLOG channel will talk about their personal experience in repair and construction, share their ideas and photos!

Today with us is Yuri from the channel Master Class and his experience in building a bath

"Hello, dear subscribers and guests of the channel! I recently built a bathhouse in the yard! Now #bath - my pride and joy! And today I want to share with you own experience in the construction of a turnkey bath - from the foundation to the chimney spark arrester. "

So, first things first:

1. Foundation

At the stage of laying the foundation, I decided that #foundation will be tape. The upper part will be extended by three rows of bricks. The bottom row of the timber frame will not come into contact with water in the bathhouse sink, the splashes of which will fall on the brick, and not on the timber frame. In this case, the durability of the lower row of the bath bar increases significantly.

2. Sheathing inside the bath

I decided to sheathe the bath from the inside with aspen clapboard, since aspen is useful for the respiratory tract, and it also does not emit resin, which usually melts from the conifers of the lining when heated.

But there is a nuance here. Aspen lining is quite expensive, so to save money, I would advise sheathing with pine in the sink. There is no such heating in the sink as in the steam room, so pine is the best option.

Before sheathing, be sure to treat the lining with a special impregnation on both sides.

How to sheathe - horizontally or vertically - is a purely individual matter. I sewed vertically with clamps - this is metal brackets for fixing the lining.

3. Ventilation

#Ventilation in the bath - this is the most important part. If you do it wrong, you can forget about the durability of the bath and a comfortable pair. In my case, at the stage of pouring the foundation, ventilation was provided under the floor in the sink, steam room and rest room.

When pouring the pedestals in the sink and steam room, I foresaw their height, for this I laid the floor logs so that the ventilation was under the floor. After washing, I open the vents for a few hours and then close them back.

Here's how I made the vent caps:

In addition, it is necessary to leave a gap under the sauna stove to ensure the flow of clean air into the steam room.

4. Doors

I bought the doors to the bath ready assembled. The entrance door to the sink is made of inlaid wood with an original pattern. For his sake and bought.

About the door! After installation, the door did not close completely. Buttake your time to do anything. 1 month after the start of the bath's operation, the door dried up, and everything fell into place.

The door to the steam room was made of heat-resistant glass. Also with original design. This door was installed, and nothing else had to be done. Both doors came with a magnetic handle, which is very convenient. I recommend! You will not regret! See photos of doors and handles:

5. Furnace and accessories

#sauna stove they took the factory cast iron. It's called Vesuvius. This stove is designed for 30 years of operation and heats a steam room with a volume of 18 sq. M. Sandwich oven tube about 6 meters high from the top of the oven. The manufacturer does not recommend less, otherwise there will be no traction. In fact, the traction is very good.

#Kamenka - from stones, the lower layer of which is presented in the form of river cobblestones, and the upper layer is the noble stones "Jadeite" and "Serpentinite".

Summarize

If you are going to build a bath, carefully study all the nuances. I hope my story will be useful to you!

Thanks to all! Yuri was with you, channel "Master Class".

You can read my other articles on my channel - Master Class! Click on the link, go and subscribe!