Sharpening a drill for metal in a non-standard way, which will help out when there is no emery and "grinder"
Sharpening drills always requires understanding and coordination in the actions of the hands and head. Once on the channel I wrote an article about method of sharpening drills without special tools, which caused a lot of criticism, although in fact the way is working, but not ideal. If you wish, you can read it at the link at the very bottom.
A little later, in my defense, I wrote another material with reference to an authoritative source, where the idea of that sharpening was taken from, but there was a lot of indignation there too (the link is also below). So this time I am ready in advance for a variety of opinions and statements. I WAIT!
Today I will share the sharpening method, which is also very good and sometimes helps me out myself. Before such a sharpening, I try to reduce each first quench by cooling in machine oil. It always helps.
It is worth remembering that no matter how correct the sharpening is, but if the hardened metal is released, there will be no sense, even one hole with such a drill after sharpening will not always be drilled.
For sharpening drills for metal I use a regular engraver with an emery nozzle of medium grit. There were no larger ones in the kit. Before starting, I fix the drill in the drill chuck and sharpen that way. This helps to fix the drill and to do without the helper, just in the field.
The angle required for sharpening is approximately 120 degrees, I choose it by eye. When you have at least some experience, it is no longer so difficult to do it. The engraver turns out to bring out the cutting edge and smooth the back surface. Then I correct the cutting edge itself separately, and it turns out almost like sharpening in two planes.
Due to the fact that the nozzle on the engraver is small and with clear angles, it turns out to narrow the top on both sides, which helps the drill more easily cut into the metal and reduces friction, and therefore the load. So it heats up less (photo 5).
In the course of sharpening, I do not lower the drill into the water, since it does not overheat. Although somehow I'll try to sharpen it a couple of times with cooling and then compare the result.
After sharpening with an engraver, I immediately checked the drill in operation. Drilled metal corner 3mm thick. The shavings almost did not form a ribbon, which means that the sharpening was not very high quality. However, the hole was drilled pretty quickly. Overall, the result is good.
All details of the process of sharpening a drill by an engraver are shown in a short video below (and don't forget about the articles!). Of course, I am interested in your opinion on this sharpening method, and if you have already tried it, share your impressions.
Drill Sharpening Articles:
- A friend suggested: sharpening a drill without special tools
- A friend did not invent: once again about sharpening drills on the reverse. A source
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