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Not everyone knows how to install gypsum slopes in problem areas

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Recently I renovated a veranda in an old house, people built it themselves. The walls are made of limestone one and a half stones, masonry on clay with sawdust, it is warm, holds well and is not hot in summer, but this is not about that now.

Problem

It was necessary to replace the old windows, the lintels above them from flimsy timber. Sturdy frames were rescued, in fact, they hold the load from one row of stone (the veranda is laid out in half a stone) and the roof. Therefore, it was decided to insert plastic windows into them. The installation went well, it was the turn to make drywall slopes, here it turned out to be a snag.

Step
Step
Step

The box created a runghow to lay the slope sheet here? There were even thoughts of repeating the ledge with drywall, but abandoned this idea.

Fit adjustment
Fit adjustment

I decided to make a regular slope, and so that the sheet would not "float" during installation, I made stops from self-tapping screws on the old slope and frame.

Level setting
Level setting

I set them up so that the sheet rested on the level when everything was cut and installed, filled the voids with foam, and fixed the slope with self-tapping screws through the sheet.

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Filling voids
Filling voids

I had to tinker, because there were three such windows, but it was worth it. The next step was putty, there are subtleties too, but I'll write about this next time, subscribenot to be missed.

Exposed plasterboard slopes
Exposed plasterboard slopes

Conclusion

Even if you don't have a step to go around, self-tapping stops will help to set the sheet for the slopes exactly at the level, and are not afraid that it will be skewed.

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