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Spring works in the garden begin with pruning fruit trees. In March, when there is snow, trees rid of unnecessary branches and shoots, and the job at the beginning of the season gardeners consider most important. As a rule, cut apples and pears. Stone fruit - plums, cherries - cut is too early, although in some regions, and cut them. Based on the experience of our members of the forum, we will describe how and when to do it right.

Why cut?

Cutting off the plant, we reduce the amount of growth of shoots. A smaller number of points of growth comes more nutrients, so the plant is better to recover after a frosty winters and better fruits later. Ideally, each branch crown should have a good access to light and air flow.

When the crop?

Most gardeners carry out pruning of fruit trees in early spring while the plant is still "asleep" before the sap flow. By the way, growers in North America and many European countries cut their pear and apple trees in winter, but in most parts of the country for the winter this is too harsh.

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Consultant FORUMHOUSE toliam1 believes that cutting can begin as soon as in your area go cold.

- at different latitudes spring comes at different times. You can use this rule for pruning: to start it when the pass by frost below 10 degrees. It is important to have time before the sap flow is likely to planting potatoes.

Sadovnik62 (FORUMHOUSE Consultant):
- Watch the weather, when it is know that the strong freezing temperatures will not. But I personally follow these rules exclusively on the stone. A pome (apple, pear) can be cut at least until the end of June. The only thing - you need to take a break during the spring sap flow abundant. Branches on a cut raw and Shaggy cambial layers in this period... simply mechanically difficult to make a cut without rags.

What cut?

Spring pruning is actively applied to young trees - landscaped mature trees, which are subject to this procedure every year, need every year there are fewer (we are not talking about anti-aging pruning).

When the seedlings of surviving their first winter, shaping the future of the tree, it is shortened to 70-90 cm, cut the side shoots (pear, which is not prone to thickening, leaving 5-7 strong branches of apple trees - 4-5). Rejected branches are cut as close to the trunk, but so as not to damage the bark.

In the following spring removed most of the branches, which look inside the crown: rubbing against each other, intersecting and just - obviously unnecessary. Several domestic branches can be left by shortening 3-4 buds.

All of last year's growth of the skeletal branches are cut: the most powerful - half of the annual increment, and the rest - by two-thirds. Volochkova shoots and growth on the trunk, in the opinion of our members of the forum, it is better to remove the summer - so you'll reduce the stress of the spring crop. And Volochkov cut is not necessary.

toliam1:
- Gyroscopes not necessarily cut out all (or even wrong - a healthy tree will drive new). Some can be used to fill baring crown. It is important to dislocate an acute angle (breakdown over the summer swims) and secure in the desired location. Over time, they will take fruiting.

Last bud on the branch, which will be before the cut should be viewed from the crown, and not inwards. The fact that much looks kidney, back and will continue to grow escape.

Pruning should give the crust desired shape: spherical, in which the tree grows and up and to the side, or, if we are talking about the Siberian shale cultures cup - raised edges, trunks lie on earth.

Adult fruit trees pruned very carefully: crop to outside the kidney annual increment, adjust strong external branches pruned internal shape of the crown.

Tree covered with lichen, just begging for gardeners pruning.

NADP (Member FORUMHOUSE):
- Lichen trees do not decorate, but it does not hurt. Its presence in large numbers says that the air inside the crown wet, t. E., Most likely, it is thickened and poorly ventilated. Make formative pruning - thin out and remove dead branches.

How to crop?

Pruning is necessary to spend so not to leave stumps. And to healthy wood: it is white, and damaged at the cut will be brown. The cut must be smooth. If you are using a hacksaw, cut trimmed garden knife. After pruning is necessary to cover all wounds (larger desyatikopeechnoy coins in young trees and dvuhrublevoy coins in adults), then they quickly overgrown, and they will not get Polypore mushrooms and various infection. Obscure garden pitch or special means.

Sadovnik62:
- obscure the need to cut immediately after pruning. I make it a rule: cut to the next tree not approach until he smeared the previous one.

To trim fruit plants need to remember the rule of 45 degrees.

Sodmaster:
- If the branch departs at 45 degrees from the vertical - it is optimal for the growth and fruiting. Less than 45 - will be a strong growth at the expense of fruiting. Over 45 - will be weak development, that's too bad. If just mindlessly shortened - just always be without a harvest, because the flower buds are found on last year's gains.

With cutting stone is somewhat different. Branches draining often grow close to each other up and quite abundant, they tie weights to direct them outwards rather than upwards. But the spring crop is the most effective way of formation of a plum tree.

PipilatsMotors(Member FORUMHOUSE):
- I am of the scheme "three tiers": the first - 4 branches in the second branch -4 shifted by 45 degrees in the projections, and the tip - to the north. I delete all unnecessary. Branches bend down to the tree laid the fruit kidney. Skeletal branches bend is difficult, but possible yearling. I do not get attached weights, just bend branches into the ring, and after midsummer let them go.

Still it is possible to adjust the spring pruning, it is the most correct and effective way. Rezhesh that grows upwards, the kidney and the branches down leave.

Let us consider a few examples.

Improper trimming

Sadovnik62:
- All photos profukali the lower tier of the class. All flew up. If you do not reduce the crown, there is a good chance to become a mountaineer. Of apple crop in these photos we never were loaded, because at this angle of divergence of their faults have long been. Such angles of divergence for apple unacceptable. These apple shaped so that provoked the vegetation rather than fruiting. We need to generate spreading crown, and have formed a broom. With such formirovke lower tiers is not receiving power and as a result have been lost, the tree has fruit formation only at the top. The amount of the crop on the volume of the crown projection will be small.

The old tree that had not been circumcised

Andrey Vasilyev (section "Fruit Garden" Consultant):
- The bottom of the clean up is necessary, of course. Tops there are two, and one I would definitely deleted. Plus much thickened. But more than a third of the crown in the first year does not cut. Well, the crown would translate well on any side branch, so as not climbed up strongly.

Proper pruning apple trees

Andrey Vasilyev:
- Cut like correct, did not see the stumps. Trees quite strong. Gyroscopes can break out the summer until the green, it is easier and less harmful for the tree. To reduce the growth should be cut with a translation of a strong branch growing laterally, the maximum horizontal. Well, you need to cut a little each year, with regular pruning, this should not take much time, and take a lot of effort.

cherry Crop

No new posts pryntsessa does not know how to build a tree: "Cherry griots Moscow looks like a bundle of twigs on a thin long barrel. The entire height of about 1.5 meters. "

Andrey Vasilyev:
- Set aside the trim on the early spring (after the snow, or even in the snow). On young plants can shorten some branches, but usually at the cherry removed thickening branches, and all.

pruning plum

Cleomenes complains about her husband: "Unknowingly and without consulting with experts, he lop all plums, although they are only 3 years old. Even I, a layman, it seemed too much. This year, the plums gave a strong increase (up to 1.5 m), I'm in shock! But I am even more shocked leaves on these gains. They are 2-3 times larger than the leaves on the twigs of the previous. "

Profanus(Member FORUMHOUSE):
- Judging by your picture, I would have even more lop. In my opinion, all too thickened. And on the young shoots of leaves close - this is normal. The easiest, in my view, to cut on the principle that the branches do not overlap each other and are not shaded, well, and keep the desired shape of the crown. Plum usually accumulates well, and it is a pity to cut, so do not think you cut something extra.

Here are a few tips from users of our forum Zaida:

1. Good branch that it is a pity to cut, you can reject in the right direction, tied to the other branch, a peg in the ground, load and so on. N.

2. "Hard" pruning can be carried out in stages: one-year cut one branch root, the next - the other, etc...

3. Old apple tree sap flow increases, making deep slits with a sharp knife along the barrel.

What should be the height of the tree?

Correctly shaped fruit tree should not be too high. Configure it so that the harvest could without risking a fall from a ladder:

toliam1:
- The height of the host to allow "no more than a raised hand tool" because broken bones with age bad fuse.

Ability to form fruiting trees come yet to experience. Consultant section "fruit garden" of our forum Andrey VasilyevWe recommend you to visit a special course, at least one day. There you can understand the general principles of pruning that is very correct. The most important pruning - to understand why and how to cut.

A lot of useful information on pruning and grafting fruit trees, you will be able to learn here in this and here in this section of our forum. BUT here - simply priceless video on this topic!

Discuss the article and read other materials devoted to country life you can on the websiteFORUMHOUSE.

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