Chair of all time: how to make the Adirondacks "on the knee" of the "shaggy" dyuymovka

Alex Shikhman shares his experience of the legendary production of garden furniture

Adirondack - garden chair in ethno-rustic style, has long become a legend. It was created by an American named Thomas Lee in the early 20th century. It is not known whether he was a professional cabinetmaker, but one day just picked up the boards and nails and began to create the most comfortable chair of all time, which was subsequently named after the mountains, close to where he lived Thomas. Surprisingly, the goal was achieved by 100 percent!

There is not one person who would be sitting in a chair Adirondack, he said that it was uncomfortable, and this in spite of the simplicity and brevity of the design, as well as the availability of materials.

Today you can buy at the Adirondack homegrown craftsmen an average of 4000-5000 rubles, but you can do yourself, even without a professional studio, and in the version that is very close to the original.

That is what eventually happened to me.

And now in order.

Given an idea of ​​self-built garden easy chair, I plunged into the Draft, trustworthy. It often happens that on the Internet there is a lot of information, which is reprinted from errors or omissions, or loss of important data. Come across projects that are optimized to the capabilities of the wizard so. E. truncated. And, of course, I did not want to dive into work and then realize that something is going wrong. Because all the dimensions of the chair parts, and especially the angles at which zapilivaem some elements, absolutely not obvious to a layperson. Looking at a single part, it is very difficult to understand in the first place, if it is properly done, and secondly, whether it has any tolerance for errors. In addition, more or less sane Adirondack projects were in inches, so I had to tinker with the transition from "chetvertfuntovogo burger" in the metric system, comparing the different sources in the search for sustainable grain.

Looking ahead, we note that even the job is not saved me from making changes and alterations of some elements of the chair.

Ideally, Adirondack moldings made from sliced ​​thickness of 20 mm, almost all the elements fit into board dimensions 150 mm except the armrest, whose width in the project 180 mm. As the mounting elements used decorative bolts 8 × 60 mm × 3.5 screws 35 or 40 mm.

In my case, I used the dry untreated board 25 × 150 × 6000 mm, it took just two pieces, on the arms 2 taken furniture shield 18 × 200 × 800 mm. Bolts used simple, hex head, in an amount of 4 pieces with washers and nuts, screws - yellow 3,5 × 40 mm.

Of the tools you will need:

• electric jigsaw,
• plane,
• screwdriver,
• Grinder,
• Construction protractor
• metal corner,
• a great ruler,
• a pair of clamps.

In addition, to simplify the process, and I used a miter circular saw, once I had them in stock.

Cutting and initial assembly

The first and most difficult element Adirondacks - a lateral support in the amount of 2 pieces. With their marking and cutting is necessary to pay special attention to all sizes. It is clear that it is enough to do a thorough counting only the first support and the second simply mirror your.

Cut off exactly 980 mm, the cut should be clean, does not require significant obrabatyvaniya ends.

Further, ostrugivaem one side of the board and a plane bottom edge for better quality execution marking (upper edge will be cut).

Apply marking on the board according to the draft.

All dimensions and angles shown in the figure, fully tested and meet these challenges. All points marked in red must be brought exactly as shown. The only doubt I have is the angle of 75 degrees at «D», for the correct application of the markup it I do not need, and I have not tested it.

At first I marked out the left side to the "A" point.

Then the right of the "E" point angle of 162 degrees - this is the angle of inclination of the support relative to the floor surface or pad.

He made the cut markings at the bottom of the backrest support. For that, first, measured 380 mm from the right edge of the board and mark point «D», is metered another 92 mm and mark «B» point. From point "B" draw a 12 degree angle, the ray angle is metered 90 mm, and mark the point "C". Connecting the point "C" and «D» segment.

On the left side of the notch is curved drank forming the seat on the support. The easiest way to do such a layout - this note three points and, using a metal ruler and a third assistant hand hold arc.

On the right side of the recess is an arc formed by part of a circle with a radius of 116 mm. If there is no compass, then make enough 5-6 marks with a ruler and then join them at the hands of a curved line.

Next proceed to the cutting out of the first support.

Jigsaw better be good, to keep upright cutting, but I had no luck with my - he sawed difficult sections at random. Knowing that his feature, I retreated from the guide line of 1-2 mm, which then rented sander.

For convenience, the board when sawing I clamps are fastened to his makeshift workbench.

Then carefully grind the workpiece support and transfer it to a second resolution, the board prepared in a similar manner.

The next stage - the production of the armrests. Authors of the project for some reason they did not correspond to the standard width of the timber. After the fact, I can say that this part could also be made of dyuymovka, limited to 150 mm. Although I must admit, this adjustment is very convenient, it is perfectly placed a bowl of watermelon dish with barbecue and still a place for elbows.

After almost an hour markup support, work on the armrest took literally 5 minutes. Smooth contours (right side in the figure) made with a pencil and glasses with no precise radii. Just like the support, the second mirror your arm was.

Then came the finer details: the upper backrest crossbar, the lower crossbar and stops the armrest. In the drawing, the upper beams, there are two red arcs featuring new cutting line - my personal optimization of this part, later it will be understood why I did it.

The next stage of "Happy Feet", in the sense that Scrollsaw front and rear legs. After curly frills previous parts, these are made in flight.

On the back foot figure also has a red line - the line of the cut. This is also my optimization, the need for which was formed after the initial assembly.

In this preparation the frame parts has been completed, and I decided to build it in order to verify the accuracy of manufacture. The assembly starts with screwing the front legs to the supports Adirondacks. To do this, I just put them on the floor and lined along the edge of the floorboard.

If the front legs are screwed outside, inside and rear strictly at a distance of 575 mm from the front. Putting it yet without bolts, but only on the screws.

Next fasten the upper and lower crossbar backrest and armrests with supports.

Only then you begin to understand how it works every angle and that of what comes out. What remains is the seat trims and backrest and seat ready! The project is expected back slats 7 and 8 straight rails seating the following options. Bottom (in the drawing) irregular-shaped strips is not supposed at all.

However, in the assembly process it became clear that the 7 back straps just do not fit in the allotted space, shoot even several millimeters on each of them I did not want to, and I was satisfied with 6-Tew pieces. But for the seats, it turned out, needed 10 straight bars instead of 8 and 1 figured.

For the manufacture of bars, I dissolved the same plane along a circular saw and sawed in size. Wedging planks gave back plane. Then ostrogannoj, he beveled and assembled chair in the rough.

Apart from the fact that the classic Adirondack chair back has a slightly rounded shape at the top, which, without proper experience can draw only assembled a chair, and then disassemble and cut out, it became clear three small inconsistencies, which I pointed out higher.

1. The rear upper part of the leg was greater than necessary and ugly advocated the upper edge of the crossbar. So I cut off her protruding part wedge, as shown in the project.

2. Top bar was broader than necessary and performed on both sides of the backrest. At the same time expand the back strap over a wide fan to remove this disadvantage has not given armrests. So I rounded the projecting parts, as shown in the project.

3. Last seating bar does not provide an aesthetic abutment to the back of the chair, so I changed it to curly.

Before the disassembly, I also place future Drill bolting.

In principle, the chair is ready and it can be used, but I would like, first, to fix something for which catches the eye, and secondly, once again sanded parts well, and thirdly, to paint and to paint such a thing assembled and that has turned out well - it's a failing venture.

Painting

For painting I took the test for impregnating decorative wood FH-015 from FORUMHOUSE chestnut color, suitable for internal and external works. For painting, you can use a brush, roller or spray gun.

The first thing that immediately liked: always on all of these banks is written "before using mix thoroughly," this was not like this. Impregnation produced in mid-2018, turned out to be completely homogeneous and immediately ready for use.

Second, the smell, which we used to feel when painting works, is completely absent, you can safely paint, even in unventilated rooms.

Third: the paint is very plastic and is not fluid. I painted all the details in two layers, and I have been soiled only the tip of the brush.

Fourth plus: the rate of drying. Yes, the bank says 12-24 hours, but I do not know under what conditions it. Because the second layer I applied after 1 hour of the first items to completely dry and seat collected after 4 chasa field start painting.

Fifth: efficiency.

On the first layer it took me 100 grams, the second up to 50!!! That's how the bank and looked after all the details of two layers:

Hiding power in the paint is excellent, really spend a brush once, and all the paint with a brush is applied evenly to the surface.

Now you only have to check its durability.

Assembly

When all the parts fit, painted and Drill, the assembly does not take much time and is carried out in the following order (carousel with pictures).

• Fasten the rear legs,
• Fasten the back crossbar,
• Fasten the first 5-6 seat straps, be sure to mount armrests otherwise they will not work screwdriver.
• Fasten the back strap, two central first, then the two extremes, then the remaining two,
• Fasten curly bar seating at the base of the backrest and then the rest strips,
• Fasten the armrests.

Done!

For its convenience Adirondack chair holding a confident second place after the womb. And it hits the comments received on the first night of its operation:

"Oh, can I stay in it?"
"And I do such a thing!"
"And here you can grill to move?"
"All my vacation started here!"

To not only sit, but lying, for example, by the pool, members of our portal make the sunbeds. BUT homemade garden swing I admire both children and adults. In the video - how to make a simple, but comfortable and presentable garden sofa.

Subscribe to the channel. Share in social networks. Join FORUMHOUSE.