Shed 3x6 m awning for protection from the heat and rain

His shed decided to show off one of our subscribers. He assured that many can come in handy.

It is summer, the sun was hot. Located in the open space of a day it was not comfortable. Wife first timidly and discreetly, and in the future actively and compulsively convinced me of the need to put a shed or an awning for protection from the heat and rain.

First, determine the materials for the roof overhang. The options considered are:

- polycarbonate;

- PVC tent;

- roofing materials Ondulin.

Variant polycarbonate dropped first. This material is well protected from the rain, but even dyed passes the sun's rays and does not allow a dense shade. Moreover, standard size sheets are not suitable for roofs, because at their connection to receive the joints, preventing the free flow of water. Variant with ondulin seemed most appropriate.

Confused only the high cost of the material. When the learned rates PVC film sheet 420 microns in thickness and size 310h620mm understood, it is our embodiment. Leaf price was $ 17. It is understood that if something we do not like it, PVC will remain the substrate. Overlap width on this occasion laid under the size Ondulina.

I drew a sketch and... I got down to business. Based on the fact that the canopy frame to be from a bar with a section of 50x200 mm. Looking for 4 bar 6-meter-long, two of which I sawed in half. It turned on 6m timber 2 and 4 to 3m. The perimeter of the roof creates two beams of 2 to 6m and 3m.

Inside, through the cross-bars of 2m 3m, to longitudinal overlapping strips 40x40 did not cave in to the 6-timetrovoy length.

For longitudinal overlapping strips stopped at a bar with 40x40mm section. To install a 300mm step took 8 pieces.

Total 0,7m3 tree costs $ 110 per 1m3. Get $ 77. Brought free.
I bought awning PVC, screws 95mm, 75mm, 35mm (galvanized), angles of about 50x50 mm (long). Fasteners cost about $ 9.

The costs of all made of 77 + 17 + 9 = 103 $ US.

Supporting pillars (4 pcs.) I have had "their own". Near overgrown with aspen and just need to thin it. Aspen, of course, is not the best material for the columns, but after this treatment, about which I will write below, I hope they will stand for 10-15 years.

I did everything except welding. The photo shows that the awning is joined to the metal walls of our houses, makeshift design.

So I decided bolts 12 x 80 mm welded to it. Mark the holes in the upper carrying bar 50h200h600mm diameter 20mm (holes with a reserve), then marked out space for welding and welded bolts neighbor. Made it all exactly in the village beam holes tightened washers and nuts. The first step is made.

Important! To the transverse and longitudinal girders are flush in transverse 3 grooves meter beams sawed lumber under 40x40mm. In the photo below you can see the slots and how to "become" bar.

Then there were questions about how to calculate the height of the supporting pillars on the lower longitudinal bearing beams as put diagonally and how to dig poles, that they were just beside a bar, instead of "walking" with a tolerance of horizontally.

To this end, he took the two pillars, and the bottom made from scraps of cross-shaped base. They baited 3-meter beam and started to move, exposing the diagonal. Because 3-meter long beams were is stuck in the center, it was easy to tilt.

Once exposed diagonal corners pulled 3 meter beams in the upper carrier beam 6th metal corners. 3 turned side. After that planted a 2 corner post and screwed the last 6m beam. First picked one angle, then a second.

Now the question arose how to attach to one another 3m 2 longitudinal beams. Do even the supporting pillars was lazy and I-boiled screws on each side of the transverse beam on one side, the one that will be at the top, planted a load-bearing pillars in the lower bearing beam. And at the top of the beam hung screwed screws on the rope.

Maybe it is not clear, but in the photo can be seen hanging from the rope on which hung (rested at the top of the beam). I picked up the bottom beam to the post, at the top to a 3 meter beam corners fastened and pulled through it with screws to the upper corners of the carrier beam.

All the frame is ready! Further paved longitudinal beams of 40x40 mm and it put the tent.

Tilt grabbed the top of the upper carrier beam galvanized screws over the entire length with a pitch of about 15mm.

An important point that I almost missed it.

With this mounting angle is formed that will prevent water flow to the lower beam. The angle should be cut across the length of the bottom of the longitudinal beams. I was doing a jigsaw, jigsaw placing the heel angle of 45%.

Important! When strong winds awning can sail. If he does not settle down by relying on the crate, then up it could well raise. To avoid this, with a pitch of about 300mm pulled (screwed to the upper construction) binding wire over the awning. Wire to length cut up in advance, so she went in a checkerboard pattern. On one corner to the center - in one direction, from a different angle to the center of the other side. The photo shows.

Unrolled awning, wherein the pulling wire and straightening it vertically to bottom. Tautly, starting from the top timber, fastened the tent in a circle to the frame. Then on top of fixed overlapping binding wire, twisting and pulling it in tension around the screws pliers.

What else... Poles treated below that level, it would be in the ground by special antiseptic and mastic asphalt.

Top of the column, and they are seen in the photo, dark,

bleached tool for recovery of wood and covered with a protective varnish for exterior use "Aquatex" is seen on a stump in the photo below. The manufacturer says that the guarantee of 7 years outdoors, see ...

Here is the final look. It took 3 months, the canopy was made in June, is the photo the last days of September.

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