To long and beautiful: how to protect wood

Why is it necessary to protect the wooden facades, interiors and terraces that will be with them without protection. What tools to use

Wood - not only one of the oldest and most popular building materials, but also one of the most "defenseless." In the sense that by itself is too exposed to any external influences and needs treatment protective and decorative means. With the help of specialist companies the DAW, we shall understand why and how to protect the wood.

Content:

• Why wood needs to be protected
• How to protect wood
• The means for protecting wood surfaces
• What happens if you leave the tree without protection

Why wood needs to be protected

Wood - a natural, "live" and "breathe", in its original form from all external influences protects the cortex. In the transformation of the logs in the building material, even if it is a wild or chopped wooden house, it okoryayut. And in the production of beams and boards - are spread into several parts. Left without natural shell, wood is not able to withstand external influences. Varieties with increased density, hardness and resistance to moisture, not so many of them and, as a rule, do not build. While most "running" types of wood have good permeability, due to which the moisture absorb and pathogenic microflora affects and lose initial properties under the action of ultraviolet radiation.

Not to mention the fact that the gradual enfeeblement of wood laid by nature, so that the result of his "living" has become a safe and even beneficial to the environment trash. From the first day of use as building cladding or surfacing material, wood is subjected to negative influences versatile.

climate:

• Atmospheric moisture and precipitation;
• Solar radiation;
• Wind loads.

biological:

• Pathogenic microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, mosses);
• Insect pests.

Wood is equally dangerous to all of the above, and on the degree of danger affects even the location of the facade.

House_head

Member FORUMHOUSE

I have a log cabin made of logs (260 mm) was collected in November 2016 (Vol. e., a summer wood), with a roof. In the winter of 2016 nothing processed. In the spring of 2017 closed the ends of specialized protective impregnation and processed temporary antiseptic, water-based, for the period of shrinkage. More until today I did not do anything. Periodically locally appeared blueing, blackening, both inside and outside handles for their bleach timber.

A few days ago seen significant fungal attack on the external walls and cut the log. I want to clarify - the emergence of the fungus because the frame has not yet dried out? Or the fact that he was not treated / painted? Or is it external influences (rain, sleet, zero temperature in winter)?

Technical specialist company DAW

All of these factors combined can cause the appearance of mold or mildew. The cause of the losses of wood may be also northern location facade, t. K. Is more susceptible to this side of the appearance of mold or mildew.

If we talk about the decking board, interior decoration and floor coverings, instead of atmospheric precipitation - fluctuations in temperature and humidity and mechanical stress, as well as ultraviolet. A mold and carpenter would get the outside, from the inside, under favorable conditions for them. Therefore, not only the facade, but also in the house, wall or ceiling paneling and parquet flooring board or in need of protection.

How to protect wood

The main problem of wooden surfaces is the ability to absorb water - and wet wood is not only an excellent environment for pathogens, but also the deterioration of technical and decorative options. Sun also does not add positive properties of wood, as under the influence of ultraviolet radiation breaks lignin and the surface is not only turns gray, but becomes loose and begins to absorb not only stronger, but also deeper. Given that the main task - to reduce the permeability of the wood and to improve its resistance to UV radiation.

For this purpose, use a number of specialized tools, which cover the wood surface after certain preparatory measures.

Protective materials, there are several kinds.

• Sealants - for sealing mezhventsovogo seams, cracks, crevices and ends.
• Antiseptics - to prevent biological lesions and increasing the surface moisture resistance (possess hydrophobic properties). Antiseptics are both highly specialized and versatile, combining several properties, e.g., protection from bioporazheny, fire and ultraviolet and surface staining.
• Primers - reduce the consumption of finishing tools, improve adhesion.
• Protective and decorative means - varnishes, paints, oils, waxes, emulsions, azure.

Sealants, preservatives and primers are intermediate, preparatory materials used in the period left standing log cabins, and in the preparation for the application of surface finishes. Protective and decorative same funds are used in the interior and on the facades as finishing coatings not only protect the surface, but also increases its attractiveness.

The selection and application of wood protection

Manufacturers offer as separate funds and complete systems for all situations and accompany the products maximized instructions. What is used depends on the initial conditions - the specifics of the operating mode, the type of wood surface and the desired effect.

House_head

Lesions treated with bleach to stop the development. What action needs to be done and when to stop the existing fungus and prevent its emergence and development in the future?

Technical Specialist

It depends on what you plan to do next if a further painting, you need to remove the blue mold and then treat the surface biocide, the next layer applied to the primer and over the biocides - any top coat verified brands. In any case, the fungus and mold should begin to struggle already at the first signs, to prevent the further destruction of the wood.

If the question of reprocessing - and other recommendations.

Paul

Member FORUMHOUSE

Help with a choice. Ten years ago, I painted the house from profiled timber alkyd impregnation brown. Who is on the sunny side bleached knots, and on the terrace under the roof there were black dots. In general it is necessary to paint. I want to repaint the house in noble gray. What to choose, alkyd or acrylic paint?

Technical Specialist

In order to further coating is not turning yellow in places "zasmolokov 'need to use a special primer sealer. In general, the following algorithm - removing the old coating by means of grinding. Next, choose the system the materials you want to work: water-based or solvent-based. And is determined from a visual component - keep natural pattern of wood or use a top coat. If you need a natural pattern, the surface should be primed with primer for wood and put a few layers of finishing material -azureWhich can zakolerovat in the desired shade.

Terraces and decks as, on the one hand - on the street, on the other - are protected against direct contact with moisture in whole or in part, as well as from sunlight. But protection is not needed less than a facade. And when selecting protective equipment is necessary to pay attention not only to the visual effect, but also on the properties and compatibility of materials.

Exlibris_v1

Member FORUMHOUSE

Problem to cover the flooring home edged board 150h40 mm planed with 3 sides. It turns out almost due north, closed most of the day from the sun shadow. I thought bottom handle indelible antiseptic preservative (gives green color) t. K. Is still not clear, sides and top colorless universal antiseptic, a top oil or varnish. Now study the topic, I realized that there is a possibility that oil or varnish can not just lie down on the antiseptic, and besides, they write that a general antiseptic oil is not necessary.

Technical Specialist

Usingoilsas a surface protection is not recommended to use antiseptic, t. k. oil is absorbed into the open pores of the wood. The use of antiseptic leads to filling, making it difficult to absorb the process oil and further drying on the surface.

In the interior of the wood veneer is required to preserve a presentable appearance that deteriorates both because of the pollution, and because of the intensive use when talking about outdoor coatings. But regardless of the kind of surface, everybody wants to highlight and preserve the look on as long as possible.

a991ru

Member FORUMHOUSE

If you choose a parquet lacquer and as a basis to take maximum durability (to at least 10-15 years will not resemble to the floors), in the direction of any lacquer look? It should be 85 m² will be covered. And over the layers. Many write that the varnish layer 4 impossible, t. K. Bubbling possible. I thought that the more layers, the better the durability or there are any other addiction?

Technical Specialist

Lifetime lacquer indoor depends largely on the degree of load topcoat: a surface with a low degree of permeability are long enough. With regard to the number of layers - just three.

Forinteriorwe recommend the use of water-borne varnish for parquet flooring, and if needed a nice matte gloss coating. And alkyd reinforced polyurethane varnish for wood floors, if the goal - the creation of a glossy coating. Production of the famous German brand's time-tested and proven its effectiveness and reliability. Only three layers.

What happens if you leave the tree without protection

In any case, the consequences are disastrous - it is the defeat of the surface, and the deterioration of the appearance, and a significant reduction in service life.

In regions with a humid climate the lack of protection ensures the appearance of fungus, moss, mildew and rot, which eventually will either need major repairs in the next few years, or to buy another home in the near term.

If we are lucky with the climate and dry, hot weather prevents putrefaction, suffers decorative.

Leiky

Member FORUMHOUSE

There is quite old and in bad condition country house. Condition of the walls as in the photo. I want to paint that would have looked better, but never done it. Prompt how better to prepare the surface for painting, and what paint to choose to leave texture of a tree or under such initial data just to cover the opaque paint (green, brown, beige)? I thought zapenit gap, then go with a drill with a wire brush, and then shlifanut circle. Then cover the antiseptic or enough paint?

In this case, you can do by bringing the facade in order.

Technical Specialist

All slots froth is not recommended, it is better to use special materials - sealant for sealing cracks. The ends also better handle special materials. Further, polishing the surface, applying primer, water-based with a high penetrating ability and application of the topcoat. Texture can emphasize through waterborne glazes for example - with a natural graying effect.

Output

To save a presentable appearance of the facade or finishing, and prevent detrimental effects - use specialized protective equipment. They not only enhance the beauty of the tree, but also help to extend its service life, and timely coatings update will remove the need for replacement or renovation for many years.

In defense need not only the original wooden walls, but all facing materials made of wood, for example - timber imitation or shingles. In the video - Master Class: wooden sofa for the garden.

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