Decorative tiles with their hands - working with DSPs and gypsum

Despite the huge variety of ready-made finishing materials, a variety of homemade is always relevant, giving an exclusive interior and facade. Stable popularity in domestic craftsmen use different variations of decorative tiles, imitating brickwork. Consider two ways of manufacturing such imitation - with a completely different source of raw materials and technology, they are united by the simplicity and accessibility.

Decorative tiles DSP for interior and exterior

Albeduin (User FORUMHOUSE):

A method of manufacturing a decorative stone without filling in each mold, this tile can be made simple manner. In this case, the cost of consumables at 1 m - within 15-30 rubles.

And although the price was relevant three years ago, even taking into account the rise in price of fundamentally it has not increased, especially when you consider that not only expensive materials, but also finished square tiles today is weighty.

Solution

A solution is prepared from sand, cement, water and an acrylic primer (concentrate), - that a primer solution provides uniformity and flexibility, and increased strength of the finished tile. The ratio of cement and sand - 1/3 primer - about 100 ml per bucket (half cup, added after mixing DSP). The solution is sufficiently fluid and form holding and not sag due to the primer.

Equipment

The process of making the tiles consists of several stages and does not require expensive equipment or special materials, but will have to make a couple of devices.

Frame - the base and sidewalls of plywood, 6-8 mm thick, the ends of the wooden bars. To ensure good adhesion of the tile with the future bases, the back side is also doing the invoice, with characteristic roughness, putting plywood substrate under a laminate. Dimensions of the frame are arbitrary and are attached only to the result - for what purpose and what size tile is needed.

Mangler - going out of wood and plastic, designed for cutting the total mass in the form on the tiles. The framework of wooden slats, on which is fixed to the protruding thickness of plastic tile cutting portion. Topikstarter proposes to use as knives school line, but variations in weight.

Albeduin as helpful as possible to all concerned, accompanied by a description graphics.

making

The form is placed on a table, workbench or other flat surface and filled with a solution - it spread from one side and by a rule or spatula is spread, leading to the end. To make the front relief surface after leveling solution thereon tested trowel "tack-free", and then again dub the ribs of the frame. Obtained voids and grooves, but with a smooth edge.

After about 15-20 minutes, when the solution begins podstyvat, masher molded tiles themselves, they can not penetrate the through, half the thickness of the seam is sufficient. Frozen tiles will break easily into segments, and the efforts of the molding will take less. After forming trowel cut solution for the perimeter of the frame - to avoid problems with removing the blanks. The box is left blank for three days, if the volume needs large frames make a few and when dried stacked on each other.

After three days begin the extraction of semi-finished - the frame is removed and the substrate is stretched over the workpiece until the edge of the base is aligned with the seam and gently break off. Albeduin advises breaking off fragments of four tiles, it will facilitate the staining, and after the crush on the segments. The tiles are stacked and left for another four days for final drying.

Tile paint tinting pastes, but not add them in the paint, and in the same acrylic primer. The exact proportion is not as mass producers, and varying concentrations. Approximate ratio - per liter of primer-eighth of the tube, but pay attention to the recommendation regarding the application, do not exceed the maximum share. For shade, the approximate to the ceramic brick, use three colors - yellow, red and black. The paste is mixed for each color separately and applied to the tiles one by one brush.

The first is yellow, it is the basis, it is completely absorbed into the surface. After it dries cause red, as the tile has already absorbed a yellow primer, permeability deteriorated, and the red part will be spread along the voids. The black color is diluted thinner, and it is practically not absorbed and gather in the hollows, giving the lighter shade.

Such layering painting not only gives a more natural color, but also protects the tile from external influences, and it can be used both indoors and on the facade.

can "play" with any hues and fit under the interior, if desired.

A bar of polygonal shape obtained by cutting segments are not masher and edge spatula is otherwise no different technology. Pointing joints can be the same solution, from which it is made tiles - DSP with primer. Do not use ready-made compositions for grouting, as they are designed for a smooth surface, and in makeshift relief tiles tightly clogged and spoil the whole look. When grouting solution after drying is also formed indelible plaque, but it is easily removed - after drying thereon seam tested brush, dipped into the primer.

corner tiles

According to this technology and make a corner tile, it is more difficult, but also quite feasible in the home. Depending on the desired angle of the frame is not going rectangular and triangular. For those who know how to work with wood and has an electric jigsaw, collect the form of plywood and timber in the cellar. Especially with the visual aid of Albeduin.

But is not only the form, there are nuances in the manufacturing process.

The substrate - not just fit separately in each cell, but also positioned so that grooves on its surface were horizontal. This is done to keep the solution on a sloping ground.

The solution - is thicker than the flat tiles and the double dose of primer, as it needs to be more flexible, not to be lifted up for the rule and not fall out of the cells. On a thick solution and texture to get a spanking does not work, the relief arbitrarily forced the tip of a trowel or spatula.

Extraction - as in the first embodiment, the blank pulled from the mold after three days, carefully hooking together with the substrate, but not for final drying stack of folded and laid on edge and tear substrate. If she does not leave (perhaps because of the increased amount of primer in a solution) is left for another couple of days.

Dividing - tiles break into segments when they are on the edge, pulling movement (can not pull) of the short side (up). To simplify the breaking, still in the process of forming the through incisions made in the ribs, rather than just cutting the perimeter of a large segment.

On the strength of tile is best evidenced by the fact that the basement of his house topiksartera she feels fine now in its seventh year. And on the wall in an unheated back room for a few years, nothing has happened to her.

Gypsum plaster, antique masonry

And for the manufacture of imitation masonry way of portal member with the nickname Vodnik-k2 even simple devices do not need to - "bricks" are made directly on the walls.

Vodnik-k2 (User FORUMHOUSE):

I would like to present to you the stucco under the old masonry with their hands. Choosing decorative finishes, suitable for made coffered ceiling in the hallway, stopped on the old masonry. But we decided not to use ready-made materials, and to make the plaster under a brick.

Vodnik-k2 He offers his solution to the issue, embodied in the corridor - plaster, antique brickwork, the cost of which is about 70 rubles per sqm (the price of plaster, pigment and protective coating).

While the technology itself is absolutely simple, the process of the monotony somewhat annoying "thing that fans of knitting."

Training

Primed wall discourage (by chalk or draw cords according to the rule) at their border, this keeping the dimensions of a brick (enough every second row). Make stencil: four bricks, can be cut plexiglass (plexiglass) of 5 mm.

Mixture - a bag of dry gypsum plaster (25 kg), dry pigments: ocher (1 L), red (0.5), brown (0.6). All the components in dry form are mixed thoroughly in a large container (for convenience), the first pour a plaster base. Pigment easiest to measure dimensional mug (cooking utensils). Shuts mixture water (add a little primer composition is more elastic) to a consistency of sculptural clay (thick, but is easily formed). The resulting effect on the consistency and depends thick solution - under the old brick, thinner - a new brick.

infliction

The stencil is applied to the wall and put a solution, it does not matter what tool, though his hands, if it is more convenient, most importantly - how to rub. Surplus cut with a spatula, as well as the batch relatively sticky, he reaches for the tool to break, resulting in turns characteristic relief ceramic bricks. Before you remove the stencil borders "masonry" cut through with an awl (spatula, knife) to come off the edge. After removing the stencil surface of the tiles slightly smooth flat portion spatula. The process is repeated over the entire surface for displaying the simulation.

Caulking Vodnik-k2 used homemade grout mixture of gypsum and assembly glue dry sand (fraction 0.75) taken in equal proportions and mixing primer. The mixture was squeezed out of the plastic bag (if not mind, suitable high culinary syringe), a trimming spatula and brush if necessary.

After complete drying of the plaster walls covered with protective and decorative compositions. However, it depends on the desired effect. Topikstarter butedienstirolnym coated latex diluted with water 1/6. Agents can be applied by brush, roller or horticultural sprayer. If the coverage area is small, and fit the nozzle on the plastic bottle. Latex improves the adhesion of plaster to the wall aligns its permeability. To make water-resistant plaster and allow wet care after her latex covered hydrophobizator. Excessive use of latex impregnation is not necessary - one layer gives a pleasant, silky sheen, after the two is the gloss that brick type will not add.

A few tips from the author

Work better with gloves - latex, rubber business, rubberized construction. They not only keep your hands, but the solution is not so stick that accelerates and simplifies the application and forming.

After removal of the stencil can be sharp, ragged edges, do not try to round them - easier after drying a plane chamfered plasterboard.

The strength of the resulting cladding depends on the quality of plaster - savings should be reasonable, do not choose the cheapest.

The first method involves the production of tiles with subsequent use in all areas - in the building or on the building, the second - for interior decoration directly on the walls. But both can be useful to all those who started the overhaul or engaged in primary finish. Interior with brickwork elements already what year does not hand over their positions.

More, in the authors' topics - the Albeduin and Vodnik-k2. The portal FORUMHOUSE lots of other interesting articles on the finishing materials - from concrete interior motives to old shacksfrom Venetian plaster before liquid wallpaper. In the video - how to learn to match colorsModern brick shines with all the colors of the rainbow, why not expand the scale of simulation.

Discuss the article and read other materials devoted to country life you can on the websiteFORUMHOUSE.

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