Features of working with shingles

The roof of a country house is often called "the fifth facade" - the whole appearance of the house depends on it. It is not surprising that among many developers, interest in materials that are attractive both externally and in terms of characteristics is growing every year - shingles. But in order for such a roof to look beautiful and last a long time, it must be properly mounted. A specialist of the manufacturing company tells about all the nuances of the flexible tile installation technology. Make money from school answers to Teachs.ru. Answers to questions about the school curriculum.

Features of the installation of flexible tiles

Step 1. Solid base device. Although the technology for installing flexible shingles has been worked out to the smallest detail, there are a number of key points that should be paid attention to even before installing a soft roof.

Gekz (FORUMHOUSE User):

At first I wanted to cover the roof with metal tiles, but after thinking it over, I decided that a soft roof looks much more beautiful. Installation of flexible tiles will be done independently. The roof is hip. The attic is cold. Slope angle - 25

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°.The rafters are installed in steps of 500-600 mm. There were questions about the arrangement of the base for a soft roof and layers of the roofing "pie".

User questions:

• How to withstand the step of the crate?
• What to use as a solid base, OSB?
• Do I need to use special membranes for the sheathing?
• Do I need to put something on top of the solid base to protect it from moisture before installing the roof covering?

These questions are relevant for any developer who decides to use shingles.

Artem Azarov (Regional technical representative of TechnoNICOL SHINGLAS, pitched roof direction):

The installation of a soft roof begins with the preparation of the base. The technology of its installation requires - flexible tiles should be laid on a solid, even, rigid base, to which the shingles can be fixed with nails.

As such a flooring can be used:

• OSB-3 boards (moisture resistant oriented strand board).
• Moisture resistant plywood.
• Grooved or edged boards, sorted by thickness with a relative humidity of not more than 20%.

Practice shows that OSB-3 slabs are the best option for a continuous flooring device, both in terms of price-quality and ease of installation. Moreover, the difference in height between the sheets should not exceed 1-2 mm. The use of planks as flooring can lead to the fact that over time, as the wood dries, the base can warp. This will cause a change in its geometry and, accordingly, the formation of waves on the already laid topcoat.

Installation of OSB-3 or plywood sheets is recommended to be carried out at random. The sheets can be fastened with brushed nails or self-tapping screws. The step of the lathing is calculated in such a way that the horizontal joints of the slabs fall on the lathing boards, and the ends of the sheets do not hang in the air!

Artem Azarov:

When installing a solid base between the seams of the slabs, a distance (gap) of 3-5 mm is maintained. This must be done in order to compensate for the linear thermal expansion as the seasons change.

Depending on the step of the additional lathing, different thicknesses of OSB-3, plywood or wooden flooring are used. For clarity, the recommended values ​​are summarized in the following table:

If the side of the passage element installed across the roof slope (for example, a chimney) is greater than 50 cm, then, in order to facilitate the flow of water and prevent the accumulation of snow, a so-called. groove.

Important: to ensure the optimal temperature and humidity conditions of the roof and the timely removal of excess moisture from the under-roof space, do ventilated roof space.

If the roof is insulated, or a residential attic floor is being arranged, then from the inside (up to the insulation layer) it is arranged continuous vapor barrier, and a superdiffusion membrane is mounted on top of the insulation layer.

Then a counter bar is packed along the rafter leg, due to which a ventilation under-roof channel is formed. A crate is stuffed across the counter beam, on which a solid base is then mounted.

The superdiffusion membrane ensures the diffusion of water vapor (releases it outside), but prevents the passage of water that has got inside the insulation from the outside.

Step 2. Strengthening the eaves. After installing a solid base, the eaves must be reinforced with metal strips - the so-called. droppers. Despite the seeming simplicity of installation of these elements, users of our portal often ask what mistakes can be made in this case.

AlexHomutov (FORUMHOUSE user):

I made a solid base for shingles from OSB and now I was puzzled by the question: how to properly mount and connectcornice and pediment strips.

The cornice planks are laid with an edge on the edge of a solid base. The planks are nailed to the solid flooring with special roofing nails with a wide head, in a checkerboard pattern, maintaining a step of 12-15 cm. When nailing nails, make sure that they are not nailed too low from the edge of the overhang (maintain a distance from the bend of the eaves> 4 cm). Otherwise, it will be difficult to cover the nails with the underlay.

At the intersection, the planks are attached with an overlap of at least 3-5 cm. Moreover, when constructing a valley, the planks are cut in a special way, and a special tongue is left on one of the planks, into which the second plank then enters. In this case, the connection is neat and tight.

Artem Azarov:

When installing cornice strips, inexperienced developers make such a mistake - they immediately hammer two nails on two opposite edges of the drip. Then the rest of the nails are driven in. As a result, waves may appear on the surface of the plank.

To avoid this, we hammer in nails hammered along the edges so that they can be easily pulled out (for example, hammer in a nail only halfway). This will fix the bar. Then we hammer the rest of the nails to the end, moving along one side of the dropper (from left to right or from right to left, as it is more convenient). After hammering in a few nails, we pull out the outermost nail-retainer and hammer in the rest. Thanks to this method, waves will not appear on the bar.

Step 3. Installation of underlay carpet. One of the key points when installing shingles is the installation of underlayment over the entire roof area. Particular attention should be paid to the places of possible leaks - valleys and eaves. As a rule, the nuances of laying the lining carpet cause the greatest number of questions from developers.

Bege74 (FORUMHOUSE User):

I wondered if there was such an angle of inclination of the roof slope, at which it would be possible to do only with an ordinary lining carpet, and is this correct?

Kostya (FORUMHOUSE user):

Often builders, when installing shingles, roll out only one - a simple underlay carpet, which is fixed with nails. Can you do this? And is it necessary to use (as prescribed by the methodology) both a simple and self-adhesive underlayment?

Artem Azarov:

When installing a roof from shingles, a combination of two types of underlayment is a prerequisite. Self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is used in particularly critical places - eaves and valleys. The mechanically held underlayment is rolled over the rest of the roof.

Compliance with this principle is a guarantee of trouble-free operation of the roof, which is stipulated in shingles installation instructions.

Because lining carpets are produced in rolls, then they are rolled out parallel to the eaves. Horizontal overlaps - 100 mm. Vertical overlaps - 150 mm. The underlay is fixed with wide-headed roofing nails. Fixation step - every 200-250 mm. Places of overlap of lining carpets (8-10 cm wide) are coated with bitumen mastic.

After laying the underlay, the gable overhang of the roof is reinforced with metal end strips. The planks are nailed with roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern, with a step of 12-15 cm. At the joints, the planks are laid with an overlap of 15 cm and fixed with 2 nails.

Step 4. The device of the valley. Laying shingles in the valley can be done in several ways:

• Open method.
• Undercut method.

The preparation of the valley depends on the chosen method of its construction. Let's consider the first way. Work begins with laying out a pre-cut self-adhesive underlayment. In the valley, a strip 1 meter wide is laid out, with an overlap of 50 cm on each side. When laying the carpet, make sure that the carpet is laid flat on the base, without folds and bubbles.

Important: the carpet is laid out on the cornice strip with an indent from the edge of the drip of 2-3 cm. For clarity, you can use the following table of the dependence of the indentation on the angle and length of the valley slope.

After laying out the self-adhesive underlay, remove the anti-adhesive film from its back. The film is removed not from the entire surface of the carpet, but only from one of its sides. After that, the film-free part of the self-adhesive underlay is glued to the substrate. Having fixed the carpet, we glue its second side in the same way.

Artem Azarov:

We pay special attention to the axis of the valley. The carpet in this part should stick tightly, without the formation of voids and bubbles. When installing the lining carpet, when cutting it, a slight rounding is made in the lower part to ensure a better drainage of water and its drainage from the junction of the eaves.

When installing the lining carpet, make sure that waves do not form on it, otherwise, after installing the tiles, they will be visible on the roof surface. All overlaps between carpets are coated with bitumen mastic. The mastic is applied with a hard spatula. The thickness of the mastic layer should not exceed 1 mm.

Further, on top of the lining carpet, a special valley carpet is mounted. When cutting the valley carpet, to repel water, exactly the same rounding is made at the junction of the planks, as in the arrangement of the lining carpet. Also, do not forget to make sure that the valley carpet lies tightly, and no bubbles and folds form under it. We glue the end carpet to the underlay carpet with mastic. Apply a layer of mastic around the entire perimeter of the valley carpet. Layer width - 10 cm.

Artem Azarov:

For the convenience of work, I recommend to mark in advance the dimensions of the valley carpet on the lining carpet (for example, mark its dimensions with a pencil). Then apply mastic to these lines and only then glue the valley carpet.

After gluing the valley carpet, we additionally fix it mechanically - we nail the carpet around the perimeter with roofing nails with a wide head with a step of 20-25 cm and an indent from the edge of 2-3 cm. After we have installed the valley carpet, we mark the gutter line and the area that cannot be pierced with nails when installing the tiles. We beat off the lines with a marking lace.

Depending on the location of the house, the width of the gutter ranges from 5 to 15 cm. For example, if there are trees on the site, the width of the gutter must be increased for the smooth removal of foliage. The area impenetrable by nails is about 30 cm from the central axis of the valley.

If the watercourse from the slopes is significantly different, then the valley gutter must be shifted towards the smaller watercourse, to compensate for the water washout at the junction of the ordinary tiles and the valley carpet.

Conclusion

At the end of the material, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the most frequent questions that our users have when working with shingles.

nikolay11111 (FORUMHOUSE user):

I hesitated with the installation of a soft roof. I only managed to prepare the base and buy flexible shingles, but the temperature outside was already below zero. Is it possible to install soft roofs in cold weather?

Artem Azarov:

If you follow the following recommendations, then you can install shingles at low temperatures.

If the air temperature is below + 5 ° C, you need to put the packs of shingles in a warm room. We take 5-6 shingles at a time. The adhesive strip can be warmed up with a construction hairdryer.

Observing these principles, we also install underlay carpets. Namely:

• We bring the carpet into a warm room, where it is warmed up for 24 hours.
• We take the amount of material strictly necessary for us on the roof for installation. Roll out the roll on the base in small pieces. One edge is fixed with nails. We roll up the roll to the nails, tear off the film, roll out the roll and glue it to the base, heating the roll and base with a construction hairdryer.
• Using mastic, remember the rule - the mastic cannot be diluted with a solvent, otherwise it will corrode the bituminous material. In winter, to work with mastic, we heat it up in a steam bath to 50-60 ° C. Do not heat the mastic to higher temperatures.

Sanya-84 (FORUMHOUSE User):

For double-layer shingles (dragontooth cut)on the back there is an inscription "Do not delete". I do not quite understand whether it is necessary to tear off this tape before installation, and if it is not torn off, will the shingle stick to the base?

Artem Azarov:

This is an anti-adhesive film. It is necessary in order to prevent the shingles from sintering with each other during storage in packages. There is no need to remove the tape, as the shingles in the pack are mirrored, i.e. the foil of one shingle overlaps the glue strip at the bottom of the shingle. Accordingly, it does not in any way affect the process of gluing the tiles to the base.

Moreover, it saves time and facilitates the installation of a soft roof based on a two-layer tiles, because we, unlike the technology of installation of single-layer shingles, do not waste time on tearing protective film.

Also, when installing shingles of the "dragon's tooth" cut, there is no need to combine patterns between the shingles. Laying is done randomly, the roof pattern does not have a clear orthogonal structure. It also saves time on installation.

Important: have three-layer shingles there is one feature that you need to know about before starting its installation.

Roofing nails of the following standard size are suitable for fixing two-layer shingles: length - at least 25 mm, diameter of the rod - at least 3 mm, diameter of the head - at least 9 mm. To fix the three-layer shingles (since they are thicker), nails must be at least 45 mm long and the base must be at least 12 mm thick.

For convenience and speeding up the installation of shingles, it can be nailed with a pneumatic gun.

FORUMHOUSE users can ask a question related to installation of multi-layer shingles, and to know, how to properly mount the base under shingles. Our video tells about all the nuances of choosing modern roofing materials.

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