Renovation of the cabins with their own hands
Experienced developers know that good cabins - this is the cabins, which is made with their own hands. Purchased options - a lottery, because manufacturer in their manufacture to save on everything. On the desk there is a bar 5x5 cm, no insulation, or it is made "on parole", and the paint quickly oblazit because used is the cheapest. As a result, after a couple of seasons, the owner of such a semi-finished product conceived as to bring the "ugly duckling", which has warped walls, or from all the cracks blows to normal barn. It is such a problem faced by the portal with the nickname Nicht79, successfully remake purchase "kosyachny" shed in quality.
How to choose a foundation for cabins
At first glance it seems that the answer to this question is simple. Do everything - take peskotsementnye blocks, put them on the ground and put the shed on them.
The result of this approach is predictable.
Nicht79 (Member FORUMHOUSE):
I have purchase in the country cabins. The soil in the area - the land at bayonet spade, then clay. Bungalow 6 is conventional peskotsementnyh blocks measuring approximately 20h20h40 cm. Summer cabins stood normally, and then, after the end of the winter began. Blocks "dance", and twisted structure. The front door will not open, and the interior in general misses the doorway.
User for "treatment" applied the standard "medicine" - jacking cabins, bedding sand under the units, the use of wooden shims, etc. Sense of it all - zero. Tormented couple of years, Nicht79 I decided to use a radical way - to alter the foundation. To do this, he is as close to the wall (as a meter away from the neighbor's fence should cabins) poured concrete piles to a depth of 1 meter.
The next step - the production of the supporting beams, which will stand cabins. For this purpose the board 5x10 cm, rallied for two pieces.
The result was three "timber" section 10x10 cm.
Then shed jacking, in turn, poked it under the beams stacked on the pile, and lowered construction.
In our articles discusses how to make a reliable and affordable foundation for a shedand independently raise and move house.
Correcting skewed walls at the cabins
Nicht79:
After installing cabins I lined it over the horizon, but remained skewed vertically, with skewed uneven. still the door did not close. This happened due to the fact that the frame is assembled cabins from the bar "fifties". Stiffness in this construction, no. Also formed in the middle of the deflection. I decided to fix it.
The user, using piles for the future canopy, which he filled during the construction of the piles under the shed, fastened on the corner supporting pillars steel cable with a diameter of 4 mm.
Rope pulled by two turnbuckles.
To fix the cable, used homemade mortgages, pre-rendered monolithic in the pile.
According to the user said tensioning turnbuckles correct skew has not helped.
To increase the force, the rope twisted like a pigtail, a piece of rebar, turning the lever on its axis.
As a result, change house straightened up, and the doors were closed.
Although the cabins stood up, revealed the following problem - it is necessary to remove the tension of the cable, and the next day again shed warps. Affected insufficient stiffness of the frame. Exit - to load shed in the front. For this Nicht79 I decided to do the canopy size 6000h4000 mm.
For the manufacture of board used overhang natural moisture 5x20 cm, sawn on the circular saw.
For bonding planks used only galvanized screw nails.
Of planks 5x10 cm, two cohesive again, the user has made racks 10x10 cm in advance by making the top of the slot for mounting bolts.
canopy characteristics:
- height of supports - 1750 mm;
- Height cabins - 2500 mm;
- the length of the roof slope - 4.000 mm;
- the angle of inclination of the roof - 12%.
Pillars bottom fastened to the foundation welded side plates and to the lining - "grouse".
Also Nicht79 covered columns, for waterproofing, mastic asphalt.
Nicht79:
The hardest thing turned out to be working alone, put bars on a level vertically. With an assistant to do it easier.
The user then secured to the front wall cabins, under the roof, a six-meter board (support for trusses overhang) section 20X5 cm.
To cope with the task, Nicht79 He hammered on the one hand and the hook, having thrown him the end of the board, slowly raised it and leveled on the level. And a couple of times board frustrated, almost repulsed hand, and had to start all over again.
Board nailed 4 mi nails in those places where the cabins were racks. Also advance in the board have cut slots for rafters 5x10 cm.
Process for manufacturing fired bytovki
Total planned to make 8 rafters of the board section 20X5 cm.
Roofing - polycarbonate brown 6 mm thick. Sheet size 12h2.1 m. It should suffice to lay the whole shed area.
To avoid sagging and deformation of the polycarbonate from the snow, need maximum support surface - crate.
To do this in the rafters have cut slots for the bar 6000h50h50 mm.
important thing: All work on the construction of a canopy user led, pulling the rope for equalization cabins. In this case, after removal of the load shed will redistribute load and cabins will remain flat.
Expanding the rafters at the top bolt, the user has inserted into the grooves bar (crate).
Satisfied that everything converges, Nicht79 I made a layout for washed down from the rafters.
It is necessary to firmly fixed to the rafters, leaning on the crossbar entire plane. It is also slightly increase the angle of slope of the roof.
Nicht79:
Making gashes, I began to assemble canopy. I put in the rafters in the grooves of the base beam and fixed them with a special fixture, which is called "beam holder." He nailed them with galvanized screw nails "Sotka", 6 pieces. Then inserted into the slots rafters bar and recorded two nails at each joint.
For outdoor buildings make better use of galvanized fasteners, as normal, "black" metal rust quickly, and dirty smudges spoil the appearance of the structure.
To increase the rigidity of the frame member on both sides of the canopy sides nailed jib.
Thus, the canopy frame is ready, cabins straightened and put on a solid foundation. The next stage - painting and flooring roofing.
"Boiled" paint for wood with their hands
At the user's words, he shed specially planned to leave it open for maximum workspace. So, sheltered from the weather, it is possible to do something with their own hands or leave the board to dry. But the open design is subject to the adverse effects of snow, rain and wind. Therefore, to deal with the annual renewal of boards or grayed enjoy from time to time wood canopy should be well painted. The main problem - the choice of high-quality and durable tools.
Nicht79:
I wondered how well paint unplaned board of natural humidity. I would like to not go broke in the paint, and use a tool that will last for 10 years. Break the Internet and our portal, I learned about the so-called "Boiled" homemade paint, which is actively used Scandinavian builders. Finns have chosen recipe.
The main ingredient of such dyes - coloring pigment - red iron oxide. Despite the fact that it is not difficult to get the problem - minium required is not much, about 1 kg and sell it in bags weighing 25 kg. Recipe "boiled" paint (10 liters) as follows:
- rye flour - 720 g;
- iron sulfate - 1560 g;
- salt - 360 g;
- Lime dry pigment - 1560 g;
- water - 9 l.
Because need to adhere strictly to the numbers given above, components of the paint is most convenient to weigh on electronic kitchen scales.
In addition, we need: brush, Brushes, drill with paddle for mixing building mixtures, a bucket and a big pot, which then did not throw a pity.
Pan by volume should exceed the volume of brewing the mixture is 20-30%, as during cooking - "cooking" the paint in the fire, the composition evaporates and boils.
It is also necessary to prepare the ingredients and knead well. To do this, the whole process is divided into a series of sequential steps:
Pour into 6 L of cold water a measured amount of flour mixture and thoroughly mixed. There should be no lumps. You can filter the mixture to clean it of debris.
Pour the mixture into the pan, put on fire. User used as a "home" normal grill. Once the mixture boils, move the pot to the side so she cooked, not boiled.
Constantly stirring, add in a mixture of salt and iron sulfate. During the preparation of "boiled" paint goes a chemical reaction with the release of noxious fumes, so it is necessary to prepare a mixture of the outdoors.
Cook paint about 1-1.5 hours, adding water vykipevshuyu.
Ready paint is applied to the painted surface. Because part of the hot, do not forget about security measures and cherish your eyes.
Nicht79:
ink consumption is very high, because planed wood perfectly absorbs the hot part. Pan stood on the coals, little pobulkivaya. Paint bucket scooped remaining mayonnaise, careful not to spill it on yourself. 10 liters I did not have to cover the entire frame.
Covering "varonkoy" tree, the user initially disappointed in the obtained result - a tree looked like the surface of which was held with the usual antiseptic toning effect.
Comforted only that the costs of such paint, compared with the original, penny. But when they came to the site the next day, Nicht79 I saw that the shed has changed dramatically.
The tree has become a characteristic yellowish-brown hue.
Cooked 8 more liters of paint, the user is covered by it the rest of the carcass. For comparison, we present photo "before" and "after."
Paint the paint is best in overcast but not rainy weather, making sure that the paint dries evenly.
The cost price of the paint - 30-50 rubles. per 1 liter of the finished mixture.
In FORUMHOUSE on topics can be found, How is the reconstruction of the cabinsNicht79, and review Finnish and Swedish recipes cooked paints. Also useful article - step by step guide for the construction of the budget hozbloka. In the video - alteration of cabins in house process for year-round use.
Discuss the article and read other materials devoted to country life you can on the websiteFORUMHOUSE.
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