The first shading decorative blocks for intake of the season

Delayed preparatory work before directly pouring process itself fence blocks. Why did you decide to do it yourself? Firstly, there was no market similar products. Secondly, if there was, it was the cost 300-400 rub. per unit. I saw the site of the manufacturer of such products to the neighboring region. Well, and thirdly - like the surface of the natural gravel.

At a cost of these units will cost me like store bought. But the fence of them must then somehow decorate, plaster. In my case, the blocks at once decorative and monolithic - there is a risk that something may peel off.

Much time was spent on the frame assembly for forms and new forms of laminated plywood. This was written in previous articles.

The first step is spread concrete setting retarder. Picture with reference to the manufacturer's quoted as in previous articles. But the show once again that the information was to the fullest:

Liquid turns dark brown.

To determine the optimal proportion itself: 1 kg per 5 liters of water. Divorce in boiling water. The cold water soluble long. Lumps previously rubbed.

If the add-retardant powder more - uncured concrete layer will be thicker up to the loss of the block of stone. If it is less - the decorative surface texture is less expressive, there is a lot of concrete on it.

The powder based on dextrin (burning starch). Desired mass electronic weighing Bezmenov.

But the fluid is only suitable for the impregnation of paper for horizontal surfaces in the forms. For vertical need a different consistency, more dense. To do this, I use normal wallpaper paste, the cheapest priced at:

There is a minus. When long standing in the heat - begins to deteriorate because This organic and loses consistency thins, the smell appears. So for a long time and a lot of breeding does not make sense. I read that you can add borax preservative.

Plated diluted retarder shape inside. On the laminated plywood goes well kept, the main thing that it was not greasy.

But the plastic molds for better adhesion had sanding emery cloth. Without this structure at the first application does not hold. Further, when the sand scratch the surface of the mold (when removing unit) - fixed well.

Before filling the form to survive for 20-30 minutes - whatever the composition dry. If you pour the concrete into the form, wet, the composition quickly mixed with it and the decorative surface will not work.

I covered in the same form for lining of metal fence posts made of profiled sheet. Why do they need - also I wrote (peeled off paint). But to fill them will be only on weekends. Their cleaning is time consuming, because It requires great care.

Next 2L bottles filled with water and set in a mold - is blockouts (for lighter weight and concrete flow rate):

Just prepare a form for composing pillars. Blockouts here - PET bottle 5l.

In one inner block mounted box of plywood for a larger empty space. There are a couple of posts that are not on the same line - it turned out that they are offset by pouring 3-4 cm.

Although only in the writing of these lines had an idea just to move to the edge of the bottle shape. It is not necessary to mount, dismount the inner box.

Everything is ready for pouring. Kneading in the mixer, which gained 8 years ago to fill the piles under the bath.

It's all in the concrete from a large number of works. At first, each time after concreting washed it, but over time the concrete is still accumulated and it was useless to do.

This kneaded mixer 100 m under the concrete ribbon fence tape on the plate and the blind area around buildings. A total of about 20 m3 of concrete.

Filled form: 6 pieces right - uncoated moderator. They will go to the partition walls in the house. 10 pieces. - intake with processing forms moderator.

On fill out one form of full concrete pail. The mixer comes out comfortably 5 concrete buckets. More - it becomes difficult to spin the drum.

Covered with patterned blocks columns, cladding and pyramidal cover for the pillars, and the fence. Flat caps I do not like.

Kneading of concrete ratio: 1 bucket of water (not full), 1 complete cement bucket, bucket 1 sand, fine gravel bucket 3 (ASG) - sometimes a little more. According to the calculations it turns out concrete grade just above the M200.

If adding more cement - concrete blocks quickly grasp not already cleared, and the next day to get the decorative surface. If less cement - some few days for curing, when removing the corners and edges of the blocks cleave.

The next day, be sure to come and remove all the blocks and clear the neskhvativshegosya layer. What happened - read the following article.

Read more: Purification decorative blocks "Washed Concrete" technology

***

Subscribe per channel, introducing it in the browser bookmarks. There is a lot of useful information and interesting stories