Noble pine wood. Fire brushing technology and errors

I recently had to try brushing with fire. I did it for the first time. Rummaged through a lot of sources. I barely found a normal technology, but I still could not do without errors. I'll tell you about my experience of reincarnating pine into noble wood species: how to do it and how not to do it.

My daughter asked me to make an easel. Immediately there was no thought about brushing. Went to the local hardware store for slats. They seem to be from under the planer, but the surface quality is terrible. It seemed to me that it is easier to burn than to grind.

I tried it on a small block. It seems to have worked out well. Next, I'll tell you how to get this result.

The technique of brushing wood with fire

We burn wood with a gas burner from all sides to the state as in the photo.

Some stop already at this stage. But this view does not suit me. Not brushing it.

Let the wood cool down and fire again. A "cracking charring" should appear on the surface.

I was immediately afraid that the slats would simply burn out. But no. Only soft fibers burn out. You will see for yourself below.

The next stage is the most time consuming. We take a dense fabric (for example, felt) and with an effort of three, until we remove the charred layer.

I used a scouring sponge (hard side) and a nylon "brush" (a piece of an old Soviet scrubber).

We get the following result (who can say that it is a pine tree?):

The final stage is "toning". The surface is quite dark. To lighten it, we go through the top with sandpaper (to the desired condition).

What mistakes have I made

• Assembly sequence. I was afraid that, due to brushing, the slats would become much thinner and it would not be possible to dock them normally. Therefore, the easel first assembled and then began to burn. As a result, the adjoining enemy shines with a native light shade. Roasting does not significantly “eat up the wood”. It is better to brush each element and then assemble the product.
• Firing degree. When I burned through the back surface of the elements, I decided to cheat: “Why is there a pronounced relief there? You don't have to burn until the charring cracks. " It turned out impossible. I was worn out while smoking. You need to burn evenly from all sides.
• Surface color. I needed a dark shade, so I didn't sand the surface. But after applying the oil, the color turned almost black. Required it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the finish coat.
• Fiber direction. After brushing, we get a pronounced fiber structure. When the elements of the product are assembled from wood of different cut (radial, tangential), it does not look very good (you can clearly see it in the second photo). Pay attention to fibers when choosing a material.

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