Reliable fastening of the anchor plates, to the frame and in aerated concrete. Subtleties that you see only in practice.

It would seem that difficult to screw the plate? But even here there are some peculiarities that can further affect the reliability of the node.

As a beginner in construction, before any job, I always try to learn as many little things as possible. But every time I am convinced that only in practice you can see all the nuances.

When installing windows in my house, I paid special attention to the method of fixing the anchor plates.

1. Fastening to the frame.

I have already written that I bought the plates in the wrong size(the hooks did not fit my frame). But even with suitable anchor plates, it is still necessary to additionally mount on a self-tapping screw.

I did this using the 25th self-tapping screw with a drill. But the main nuance is how deep to twist it.

I saw many examples when the self-tapping screw did not enter the full depth, the plate remained pressed along the edges of the frame, but there was a gap in the middle.

Here the self-tapping screw cannot squeeze the plate tightly ...

I screwed it all the way in, so that the plate sagged.

• In this case, a secure fit was felt.
• And the bend was also necessary for further fastening to the opening.

2. Fasteners in aerated concrete.

Here I used vinyl hammer plugs.

In addition, in the hole drilled for them, I poured "liquid nails" for better adhesion to aerated concrete.

This method, I looked in one of the rollers, where they tested the strength of the fasteners. And this method showed the best result.

✅ Although in the process of work, I realized that in this case it is unnecessary. All the same, the fasteners work not for "tearing", but for "cutting". So just a dowel will suffice.

In sum, all these bindings give a very reliable result.

The window is in the opening, "rooted to the spot", even without foam. What else do you need ???

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