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How to make a hand, carpentry vice from a pair of bars

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We are talking about classic carpentry clamps, or as they are sometimes called - joinery vice.

hand vices or classic carpentry clamps
hand vices or classic carpentry clamps

About 5 years ago I made myself such clamps and they served regularly all this time. Now I decided to update them and put on the screws instead of a 10 mm threaded rod, a 12 mm hairpin. and add a locknut for one of the handles.

To do this, I needed to expand the holes for the studs and nuts. It's good that now I have a drilling machine, it is very convenient to do such things on it.

clamp dimensions
clamp dimensions

Yes, for these clamps I used 40x40mm ash bars. and 210 mm long. The screw holes are located 110 mm from the edge (100 mm is possible), the distance between them is 80 mm.

Note that these clamps can be made in a variety of sizes. Large ones with a bar section of 80x80 mm or, say, 50x70 mm., And 400-500 mm long.
Or they can be small - 25x25 section and 100 mm long.
The size depends on the application for which these clamps will be used.

Two through holes are made in one bar. And in the other one is through and one is deaf.

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the arrangement of holes in the bars
the arrangement of holes in the bars

To make it clearer, look at the diagram of the device of such clamps.

clamp diagram

Further about the size of the holes. For M12 studs, holes were made with a diameter of 15 mm. A convenient diameter for nuts is 19 mm. in this case, the M12 nuts can easily be driven into such a hole. I made a 22 mm hole for the lock nut. Then scroll through the gallery.

reaming 15 mm
reaming 15 mm
reaming 15 mm

Then I prepared the handles for the clamps. I used a birch block 30x30 mm. section and 80 mm long. From the end, I drilled a hole 12 mm in diameter and 30 mm deep. The hairpin was cut to a length of 210 mm. This gives a maximum dimension for the work of the clamps of 100 mm.

drill hole for stud
hole for fixing pin

In addition, in the handles and simultaneously with the pin, I drilled a hole for the fixing pin.

I pasted the handles on epoxy, and then shaped them on a belt sander. (scroll through the gallery)

Now the clamp can be assembled. Before assembling, I coated the wooden parts with oil. Scroll through the gallery

nut on top of the bar (see diagram above)
nut on top of the bar (see diagram above)
nut on top of the bar (see diagram above)
nut on top of the bar (see diagram above)
nut on top of the bar (see diagram above)
nut on top of the bar (see diagram above)

A handle is placed in a bar with a blind hole and fixed with a lock nut. As shown in the photo in the gallery above.

Next, a second bar is screwed onto this handle, which is with two nuts.

screwing a bar with two nuts
installation of the second handle

And then the second handle is screwed in so that it rests against the blind hole of the first bar.

To push apart and move the bars in these clamps, you need to hold on to the two handles and start rotating them like pedals on a bicycle.

With this rotation, a bar with two nuts moves along the studs.

To clamp the part, the front screw is first tightened, it clamps the part, and the second screw, when tightening, rests against the blind hole and, like a lever, additionally clamps the part.

These clamps are convenient for fixing parts for processing to the workbench. For example, they clamped the workpiece into a clamp, and the clamp itself was fixed to the workbench with the second one.

Also, these clamps can be used to machine small parts on a milling or sawing machine, as well as to hold small parts when drilling holes.

When gluing workpieces, these clamps also perform very well. They are convenient for gluing parts by thickness.

Thanks for reading. I would be glad to have your support in the form of a like and a subscription to the channel. And see other publications on the channel.

Alexander.

P.S. I also invite you to your site.

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