We insulate a wooden house correctly: instructions for installing stone wool and cladding

Personal experience in warming a house from a bar with your own hands

IN first part of article we told why a member of our portal with a nicknameZlojGenij decided to insulate the log house. We also made a heat engineering calculation to select the optimal insulation thickness for a wooden house built in the Moscow region, and described the features of the ventilation facade.

We continue the started topic. In this article:

• How to properly insulate a house built from a bar with stone wool
• How to insulate the basement and blind area
• What nuances should be taken into account when installing a moisture-proof membrane
• What you need to know to calculate and correctly install metal siding

Thermal insulation of a log house with stone wool

Recall that the user needs to insulate and decorate a house built from a bar with a section of 15x15 cm. The dimensions of the building are about 8.6x8.6 m. The area of ​​the walls is 200 m².

As insulation selected stone wool 5 cm thick, which will be laid in two layers. For the installation of insulation and metal siding on the facade, the user purchased special plates made of galvanized steel.

Plates dimensions: 36x6 cm, metal thickness 0.7 mm, 6 cm will go to the "heel", 15 cm remains for hanging insulation (10 cm layer) and fastening metal siding "under the L-beam".

ZlojGenij

FORUMHOUSE member

The galvanized steel hanger is screwed onto the wall using roofing screws 51x4.8 mm in size. The check showed that 1 suspension can easily withstand the load of 4 solid bricks. This is about 16 kg. In total, I will fix 500 hangers on the facade. In total, they will withstand a load of 8 tons, despite the fact that my entire facade weighs about 1.5 tons.

Before screwing on the suspensions, the user removed the insulation from the shrinkage gaps above the window, properly propened them, and also foamed all the cracks on the timber. In addition, I once again drilled through the entire "box" at home.

After the preparatory stage and installation of suspensions along the entire facade, ZlojGenij began to insulate the house. Stone wool slabs with a density of 70-80 kg / m³ were staggered.

Moreover, since the insulation is laid in 2 layers (to overlap the seams at the joints), the 1st layer is placed flush with the corner, and the second layer with a 5 cm outlet to cover the seams of the adjacent wall.

The plates were mounted as follows: first, the plate is leaned against the suspension and slightly pressed against the metal. Thus, a mark remains on the plate, along which a cut is made with a knife. Then the insulation is pushed onto the suspension, pressing close to the wall.

According to the user, the insulation board stands firm. Also, the insulation (each row) is additionally attached to the wall with plastic rondolas with self-tapping screws. The first row of stone wool was pressed with a 7.5 cm long self-tapping screw, and the second - longer, by 13 cm.

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Having fastened the thermal insulation, I pulled a moisture-windproof membrane over the insulation. He worked alone. It took me a week to insulate one wall.

How to properly install a moisture-proof membrane

In the first part of the article, we have already told why, when installing a ventilation facade, mineral wool insulation must be protected with a wind and moisture protection membrane. A film that releases steam (coming from the house) to the outside, but due to its structure, does not allow atmospheric moisture to get into the insulation. T. because a wet insulation completely loses its heat-insulating ability. In addition, the membrane protects the insulation from the wind, which can eventually "take out" the particles of the insulation.

An important point: it is impossible to close the mineral wool insulation from the outside with a vapor-opaque material that prevents steam and moisture from escaping from the thermal insulation. Otherwise, the process of moisture accumulation will begin in the insulation, and wooden house walls start to rot.

Remember that overlapping moisture and windproof membranemust be glued special tape, and not left "just like that", as is usually done by "experts".

In this regard, the experience is interesting ZlojGenij. The user first tried to seal the membrane overlaps with ordinary household tape, but after about 2-3 weeks in the sun, it dried out and fell off.

Gluing overlaps onto double-sided tape is expensive. As a result ZlojGenij I froze the membrane overlaps with polyurethane foam from a can. Practice has shown that such a connection is held tightly.

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It took me 1 day to mount the suspensions on the second side of the house. It took another 2 days to insulate this side of the facade and cover it with a membrane.

Insulation of the foundation and manufacturing of the blind area

After the walls were insulated, the user proceeded to thermal insulation of the basement of the house and the manufacture of an insulated blind area.

This technology has already been described in detail on our portal in the article the correct cake of a warm blind area.

The user opened the foundation a little, so as not to cut the extruded polystyrene foam, and the insulation slab stood completely. Then he cleaned the foundation from dirt, drilled holes with a perforator, glued the thermal insulation onto cement-foam and fixed the slabs with dowel-mushrooms.

To reinforce the blind area, a masonry mesh made of wire with a diameter of 3 mm and a mesh size of 10x10 cm was laid out along the layer of thermal insulation. The reinforcing mesh was passed through thermo-compensating inserts - a regular board.

Further, the blind area was filled with self-weight concrete. The concrete was leveled with a homemade rule made from planks. It took about 4 days to complete.

This article talks about selection of ingredients for self-mixing concrete.

Installation of metal siding and installation of a ventilated facade

The key feature of the hinged ventilation facade is the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation (protected by a moisture-proof membrane) and the external finish, for example, siding panels.

The gap (approximately 4-5 cm) allows steam and moisture to be freely removed (eroded) through the ventilation duct.

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For the installation of a hinged ventilation facade, I chose metal siding, a profileL-bar. It has its own editing subsystem. To save money, I decided to use the ceiling profile used for internal work on the installation of gypsum fiber sheets as guides. Profile thickness 2 mm.

The profile is attached to hangers mounted on the plinth. In order to evenly distribute the load along the hangers along the vertical, the user spliced ​​the profiles together.

All work on the installation of guides under ventilated facade breaks down into a series of sequential steps:

• We mount the extreme profiles.
• We pull a lace between them.
• We set the remaining profiles according to the markup.

After that, the user carefully measured all the dimensions of the house, including the "dressing room", and ordered "the firm" to calculate the required amount of siding.

Metal siding is made for the specific dimensions of the house, which minimizes the amount of scrap.

After purchasing siding ZlojGenij started the installation of window strips, since this is a complex element and, according to technology, they must be installed before installing the siding.

First, the lower ebb is installed, then the upper one, then the sides are mounted. The whole process is also broken down into sequential operations:

1. We measure the distance between the profiles and transfer them to the ebb workpiece.

2. Leave 2-3 cm for the hem of the metal.

3. Then we cut and fold.

For bending and cutting metal, the user used pliers and metal scissors. On the outside, the ebb is not immediately cut, since this is done with the sidewalls installed.

The upper part of the ebb is made similarly to the lower one.

The manufacturing process of the side parts is clearly demonstrated by the following photographs.

As a result, you should get such a node.

Further, the slope and ebb are additionally foamed.

All self-tapping screws are painted in the color of the slope. To do this, they can be stuck into a suitable piece of EPS and painted with spray paint.

Installation of metal siding (L-bar profile) is not carried out from bottom to top (like vinyl siding or "log"), but from top to bottom. This will avoid the accumulation of water in the panel joints, which, at low temperatures, can break them.

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When self-installing siding, the most important thing is the right start. If the level of the first row is not maintained, all subsequent rows will go away. Although the panels allow some movement, stretching or bending, this is not desirable to abuse.

Having assembled the siding, the user proceeded to install the spotlights.

Fully perforated soffits (for better ventilation of the under-roof space) were also installed from top to bottom.

The decorative strips were installed the other way around - from the bottom up, so that water does not flow. At the finish of the work, there were some "jambs". If we move away from the facade, then it is noticeable that the pattern of the panels, where the “dressing room” is located (the texture “under the tree”), is repeated unnaturally, and near the pattern is rippling.

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The pattern on my panels (1900 mm long, cut in succession to size at the factory) is repeated every 950 mm, but I thought that the repetition goes every 2 meters. This creates difficulties in the selection of a non-uniform texture of a pattern that is repeated in the same way. You cannot swap panels. In my opinion, the repetition of the wood grain every 950 mm is clearly not enough.

At the end of the article, we present an approximate budget for warming and finishing a log house with metal siding. Taking into account the cost of delivery of materials, the user spent about 270 thousand. rub.

Impressive? Press your finger!

You can find out all the nuances, as well as ask a question of interest about the insulation of a log house in the topic ZlojGenij"Thermal insulation of a house from a bar with basalt and metal siding L-bar". We also recommend that you study the section on FORUMHOUSE "Facades and facade materials".

In addition, we advise you to read articles about choice of insulation and alteration of an old log house into a comfortable modern house.

In the video - the nuances of installing an unusual wooden shingle facade.

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