DIY: homemade workbench-assembly table

Original workbench from a home craftsman: instructions for making

A joiner's workbench and a cutting table are essential items in the arsenal of any home craftsman. Process wood pieces, assemble an original product, or garden chair adirondack - there is always a use for these items. But, if the carpentry workbench is most often associated with the picture below, then the assembly table is a rarer guest in home workshop.

Content:

• Why do you need an assembly table
• The nuances of making an assembly table-workbench
• Life hack "for growth"

Why do you need an assembly table

Assembly (assembly) table is vital for any craftsman engaged in the manufacture of wood products. No matter how carefully the workpieces are sawn or milled, the final operation - assembly - determines the quality of the future object. Agree, it's a shame if, due to skewing of the blanks or poorly glued parts, a marriage turns out, and all the work will go down the drain.

It is here, at the finish line, that all the advantages of the assembly table are fully revealed, but it is not always possible to place both the workbench and the assembly table in a limited area. In this case, you can compromise - combine two functions in 1 item - a workbench-assembly table.

In this regard, of particular interest is the assembly table created by the user of our portal with the nickname albertfaktor.

аlbertfaktor

FORUMHOUSE user

I am a professional chauffeur with 40 years of experience. Recently I got carried away with carpentry. In this case, you cannot do without a workbench, but assembling the product on your knee or on the floor is also not an option. The quality is not right. Therefore, I made a firm decision - to acquireuniversalwork table. Having looked at the price of industrial products, the desire to buy them has disappeared completely. There was nothing to do but roll up your sleeves and do everything yourself.

The first thing I started with albertfaktor Is the collection of all available information and the development of your own concept of such a table. Having studied the Internet, the user decided on his wishes. It remains only to build such a table.

The nuances of making an assembly table-workbench

Refusing to use pine boards, albertfaktor opted for thick plywood as a more durable material. Plywood 21 mm thick and sheet size 1830x1520 mm went to the tabletop.

To keep all waste to a minimum, the sheet was cut as follows:

1. First, a tabletop measuring 1800x900 mm was cut out of plywood.

2. The rest of the plywood was cut into 3 pieces. 2 blanks went to the sides of the countertop, and the third, sawn in half, to the ends.

For the convenience of using the table, it provides space for 2 drawers. To make the drawers easy and simple to pull out, they are attached to ball guides.

One of the main requirements for a timeline table top is increased rigidity. A 21 mm plywood box is already a solid structure in itself, but to increase rigidity, partitions must be mounted inside it. All elements of the table are fastened to each other with confirmations (furniture screws) and set on glue.

When gluing products, you cannot do without the help of the third and fourth "hands" - quick-clamping clamps.

Then, with a jigsaw, we cut out the holes for the boxes in the sides, and the tabletop itself is marked for drilling holes for fastening various equipment.

аlbertfaktor

The grid is applied with a mesh of 150 mm. I drilled the holes in a checkerboard pattern with a Forstner drill, 2 cm in diameter. I didn't drill more often. In my opinion, these holes are enough to grip a part of any size, and they do not affect the strength of the tabletop.

In addition, technological round and oval holes were drilled on the side walls of the table. They are necessary for clamping (for example, attaching a G or F-shaped clamp) when gluing parts.

Moreover, such a moment is interesting - when making a table аlbertfaktor did not use drawings, plans or sketches. Everything was done along the way, but being guided by the saying "measure seven times, think the same number of times, but cut off only once!"

At this stage, the future contours of the workbench table have already begun to emerge. Also, the user has foreseen such an option that the table needs to be moved to another place. When assembled (with legs), it will not pass through the doorway, therefore the tabletop and the underside are two separate and collapsible parts.

Plywood 16 mm thick went to the legs of the workbench (there was no other), and furniture bolts “ten” (with a round head) with a length of 4 to 6 cm were purchased for connection.

аlbertfaktor

The table top and the underlay are fixed with corners. T. Since I didn't want the legs to look rustic, I made them in the form of a semicircle, bending a metal ruler, as a marking device, and outlining an arc with a pencil. Having cut out one part, I used it as a template to mark the rest of the legs.

For the strength and rigidity of the "skeleton", the legs of the assembly table are reinforced with supports made of pine boards and pulled together by stretch marks.

Also, a place was left for attaching the bottom shelf, to which a 2x0.4 m glued furniture board went, and a 95x20 mm board was taken for the side boards. Everything was fastened with confirmations.

To firmly connect the shelf and the legs, the albertfaktor went for such a trick - during the assembly, he pulled them off with a lanyard and rope.

The work on making the table has reached the home stretch. To make the structure more rigid, the master glued the stretch boards into a bag of 2 pieces. But now, due to the thickness, it was impossible to fix the stretch marks on the confirmations, I had to screw them onto long screws and put them on glue.

In addition, I had to twist when fastening the brace with a spacer. The screws have disappeared. Аlbertfaktor glued together 2 pieces of plywood 16 mm thick and cut out holes for the nuts, thus pulling the structure.

It remains only to glue the plinth from the rail around the perimeter of the tabletop, and also to fix the guides for the drawers and paint the product.

аlbertfaktor

In principle, the table is already ready, the rigidity is excellent, nothing wobbles. I’ll go through the stain, and then paint it with yacht varnish. This varnish is durable and not afraid of dampness. For beauty, I pasted over the corners of the table with a wooden corner, which closed the screws and the corner joint of plywood.

Life hack "for growth"

T. because the table is made "for growth" - that is, as skill increases and the complexity of work increases, to various devices will be made to him, such a moment as a quick-fix bar with nuts. The plank is cut from the remaining scraps of plywood, the edges are rounded (for greater aesthetics), and in holes are drilled with it for special furniture nuts, which are hammered into plywood. The distance between the nuts is 300 mm. The third bolt hole is drilled exactly in the center. Thanks to such a device, installation work on fixing parts is significantly accelerated.

аlbertfaktor

If you need nuts for a bolt (hairpin) clamp, turn the bar and align it with the two holes in the table. Finished work - turn the bar to the side. When tightening the studs, when fastening the part on the table, the nuts will only press into the plywood more and will not pop out. The hole is drilled to size, the nut is tightly boarded up, and the “horns” will prevent it from turning.

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Or maybe the simplest workbench was enough, do you think?