Revised the project and shrank to 250 thousand at the construction site of a stone house near Anapa
Due to what chips it turned out to further reduce the budget, preparation for the construction of the box
FORUMHOUSE presents a first-person story about ultra-budget construction.
purecoder
ParticipantFORUMHOUSE
Construction of a house 6x7 meters from a gas block with an open ceiling in one hand. In detail each stage, estimate, video.
Finalizing the project
If someone follows my posts, they probably remember that the last time I spoke about "no more than 300K". And now "for no more than 250 K". How can some exclaim, where is it even cheaper, and is it possible? Yes, you can. And even the most attentive should note that the gas block has changed to expanded clay block.
Winter has come, and I decided to think over my project in the most careful way, down to the smallest details. Including I make an estimate where there is everything inside and out, up to the screws. And as a result, a rather tempting and harmonious picture emerges, i.e. perhaps you cannot imagine better in all respects for such a small house. It is clear that there is no ideal here and there cannot be, you can only optimize everything very well.
I will take the liberty of claiming that my project will pull even less than 250 K, but only if everything goes smoothly, but for now I give a figure with a margin. And I'll tell you right away what it includes - the foundation, floors, box, partitions made of gypsum board / gypsum plasterboard, roof, windows, pipes (water supply, sewerage), external decoration. Internal - no.
My project turned out to be several sheets, I will not reprint all this here, but I will indicate only the most basic. So, the layout itself. Initially, it was somewhat different, but also very successful, perhaps even somewhat more successful than the current one, for example, in the sense that the entrance to the bedroom was located far enough from the front door. But the front door was on the other side. The fact is that I had to move all the openings to the side of the pediments, and that's why.
Making the layout of a house with an open ceiling (thanks to which you can save money due to the absence of a lag of roof overlap, plus get quite high ceilings), I encountered the difficulty of erecting internal partitions - they were obtained in some places (do not forget, the ceiling it turns out not flat, but at an angle), more than 3 m., and the profile under the gypsum board goes 3 m. And this means that it needs to be somehow increased, which entails add. difficulties, waste of material, and some loss of rigidity too. I decided to make the ceilings at the highest point a maximum of 3 m.But how to do this so that the angle of the gable roof is sufficient (at least 25 degrees), and the height of the windows too (at least 120 cm. at a distance of 80 cm from the floor)?
At first I thought to lower the ceiling by pulling the roof (crossbar). But no, I want to do without them at all, and something is not right. It was here that the idea came to lower the walls to a height of 2 m (it was originally planned to be 260 cm), bringing all the openings to the side of the gables, which, by the way, will be laid out in the same way, from expanded clay block. In general, you get savings on expanded clay block (-3 rows)! And the weight of the walls, and they are, by the way, half a block, and in general the whole house, turns out to be less! Moreover, I note that such a low wall will not add any discomfort, because it is worth moving away from it 1.5 m. (And as a rule, furniture is placed near the walls, although In fairness, I note that my interior will be in the style of complete minimalism), and the ceiling height will already be in the region of 2.4-2.5 m.And there will also be less costs for heating.
But I decided to strengthen the foundation (which I wrote about in the previous article). post) by making an armopoyas. Although it would be possible to do without it, but I decided to play it safe, since I originally planned to build a house from a gas block. But after monitoring the reviews well, figuring out what's what... Paying nearly double the amount for stuff that turns to dust... well, I do not. I'd rather be old-fashioned. Yes, he saws easily, but he has better thermal insulation. But with my wall thickness, it would still have to be insulated, so it's not worth this overpayment of money. Now, if at a price it came out as a claydite block (of course, in terms of a cube), then I would have thought.
Plus, the last row of the gas block would have to be done with an armored belt (lay out the U-block and fill it with concrete), and this is additional hemorrhoids, plus a waste of money which is already so little. With a cinder block, and with my lightweight, non-spread roof, this is not so necessary (although desirable) - I just reinforce the last row with a masonry mesh, and then a 150x100 mm Mauerlat.
Why I refused floor insulation
My floors will be wooden (logs 150x50 mm -> floorboard -> OSB; in the middle, the logs will rest on concrete posts, the span is about 2.6 m), at a price it comes out about the same as concrete. Anticipating the question "where are the vents?" Studying this issue well, I came to the conclusion that it is possible to do without them, but if only to make good waterproofing of the soil. It does not seem to me to be both labor-intensive and financially costly. By the way, in America, many houses do just that with an underground without air vents. In an extreme case, you can make ventilation by bringing the pipe from the floor along the wall and into the roof - just in the same place where the kitchen ventilation will be, i.e. along with her. It will even be better this way, the specialist Alexander Terekhov also speaks about this, probably many have heard about him. And from ordinary fumes to the point of being a goat of milk, even more often harm.
And I will not have insulation in my floors. Oh God, someone will exclaim, what a trash! Who has not read my story from the very beginning, I will remind you that I live in the hot south. And here even more costs go not so much for heating as for air conditioning, and believe me, if you insulate the floor, these costs will only increase. Yet the earth gives coolness. As for winter:
- firstly: I will insulate the foundation (insulated blind area, from the inside I will insulate with expanded polystyrene foam from cylinders);
- secondly: yes, I won't have these notorious ghosts, which means that it won't be cold underground.
Open beam roof
The roof will be gable, with an open ceiling, i.e. without overlaps and even without a crossbar. Of course, in this version there should be a ridge beam. And it will rest on a 150x100 mm pillar, which will be installed in the place indicated on the layout. Rafters 150x100 mm, mineral wool 150 mm overall thickness (three layers of 50 mm each), counter lattice, membrane, ondulin. T. e. such a standard cake, there are many more nuances, but I will describe them as the roof is being erected. I think 150 mm of cotton is enough, I would like 200, but the savings should be economical. I'll put it this way - now I live in a trailer (made according to my project - in fact, like an apartment in nature with all the amenities), and you know, 100 mm of mineral wool on the roof seems to be enough, the air conditioner does not strain too much in summer. Although, of course, I do not argue, this is not enough, there is an overconsumption of electricity for anyone. For 20 sq. m. I pay an average of 550 rubles a month - the average value for the whole year, I live here all the time. But due to the fact that the area of the house is small, the effect of 50 mm is especially invisible. I think it will be possible to live completely with 150 mm of insulation.
P. S. For exterior decoration. The house will be sheathed with vinyl clapboard, insulation 50 mm mineral wool. I came to the conclusion that it is better and more durable than a wet facade, and again, more economical.
I revised my project again - sawdust concrete floors (a wonderful material, if only done correctly). The roof is on two ridge girders, in order to relieve the bursting load on the walls, the rafters are not 15 but 20 cm. I want a house closer to energy efficient.
Visualization
Guess what kind of adaptation (the whole construction will be needed)?
Do not pass by, like it!
More first-person stories - in the thematic section.
Stone house, second light, in one hand, for 300 thousand:
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- Revised the project and shrank to 250 thousand at the construction site of a stone house near Anapa
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