Easy repair of external slopes. What material won't crack?

When finishing and repair of external slopes I want to know in advance what material to use so that it can withstand seasonal temperature changes, is not afraid of freezing and high humidity? It is expected that such a mixture will not crack into cobwebs, powder or crumble after a year.

I will briefly focus on what and how you can repair the already plastered slopes, which have partially collapsed. As an example, here are some pictures of the narrow outer slopes that had to be redone recently.

More often I meet slopes that crumble from below, while the top remains intact or suffers less. The situation is the same in this case, in a private house, where the lower sections of the plaster on the four windows not only cracked, but also fell off. And it's not just the material.

One of the causes of the problem - absence of a small temperature gap between the slope and the window sill.

Under this condition, the flowing water accumulates in the lower part of the slope and, when it freezes, expands it in all directions. Also,

the paint on the slope also peeled off, which further promotes the seepage of water into the stucco.

Sequence of work

1. The slope must first be thoroughly tapped and checked to see if it is bunching, knock down with a hammer or hatchet anything that does not hold well. Sometimes you have to peel off the plaster around the entire perimeter.
2. We remove everything that is crumbling and shabby - rip it off, sweep it out, blow it out. On entire areas, you need to walk with a spatula or metal brush and remove any peeling paint. Here I had to do this.
3. Before starting work with the mixture, be sure to prime the slope. It can be done liquid primer or PVA clem diluted in water, which is also effective. It is advisable that the primer is dry before applying the plaster. If there is no desire to prime the surface, then it should at least be moistened with water from a sprayer just before plastering.
4. We knead the material. For several years now I have been using pure tile adhesive for external slopes. CeresitCM11 (yes exactly tile glue), which is sold in bags of 25 and 5 kg. I make the solution thicker, since with a large layer, the mixture slowly creeps.
5. Step by step I apply the glue to the slopes with spatulas from top to bottom, because it is easier to get rid of the protrusion in the plane of the excess mixture.

To be honest, work as a plaster with CM11 not very pleasant; an extremely "naughty" thing and it is difficult to display a flat plane with a large slope width. Keeping this in mind, I usually do the work in several stages, without trying to immediately achieve the perfect surface. After applying the main layer, I let it dry and continue the work the next day.

6. On these narrow slopes on photo 2 it turned out almost everything was fine on the first try, but the next day I did a little tweak.

If the glue layer CeresitCM11 large, then by the next day it still does not harden properly and when pressed with fingers or a spatula will dents, that is, it is easy to spoil the work, especially the corner, so you have to plaster neatly, without strong pressure.

7. I have already mentioned that if you do not provide bottom slope clearance, after some time, the plaster will most likely tear off the brick, so I cut it with a spatula from below clearance up to 5 mm. It is more convenient to do this the next day, when the mixture grasps a little.

Fresh plaster will simply drain and fill the gap again, but if the wall absorbs moisture well, then a gap can be made on the first day.

8. Align it clean, that is, apply the finishing layer the next day with a more liquid mixture. Next, after drying, it will remain to clean up and paint a little. You can do this with acrylic paint, which does not allow water to pass through and will provide order for many years.

Evaluate this rather simple way to restore a slope and share your personal experience.

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