DIY aerated concrete house. Insulated armopoyas without wooden formwork

After repairing the machine for sawing aerated concrete, I sawed the required number of blocks, 5 cm wide for gluing the U-blocks of the armopoyas:

In the comments they wrote that it is better to fix the electric saw above the table so that the crumb does not accumulate at the asterisk, it falls down. But there is no time to redo. Perhaps next season.

The process of gluing the blocks of the fixed formwork of the armopoyas. Glue foam should be applied without sparing consumption. These are blocks without an inner side; floor slabs will rest on this part of the armopoyas.

Gluing U-blocks.

The lower edges, like ordinary blocks, I put on mineral glue. Side - on glue-foam. On the inside, OSB formwork will be installed. I decided to make sure that the floor slabs fully rest on the concrete part of the armopoyas. I thought that when they were laid, the pressure could deform the inner layer of the U-block aerated concrete. They may crack. Where the slabs do not rest on the walls (side edge of the slab), permanent formwork is also mounted there from the inside.

On the internal load-bearing wall, support plates of 15 cm on each side. There will also be a removable formwork made of OSB sheets. In order for the reinforcement to be in the same plane along the entire perimeter, it was necessary to lay sawn blocks with a thickness of 5 cm.

The process of warming the armopoyas. I cut sheets of XPS, Penoplex in place with a clerical knife. Gluing the insulation on the foam glue is mandatory. Otherwise, it will float up when poured with concrete. We foam all the cracks to prevent the formation of cold bridges when pouring concrete. After cutting off the excess foam. But then I found a way to save time: after 5-10 minutes, while cutting and gluing the next sheet, I pressed the glue-foam with my hands on the previous sheet.

I sanded the surface with an aerated concrete grater (based on coarse sandpaper). Armopoyas will be smoother, without drops

Sawed and bent frames made of 6 mm reinforcement for the reinforcement cage. Bars on aerated concrete chips after block sawing, but it seems that they are lying in the snow.

Knitted frames on stands made of aerated concrete pallets. I twisted them with long screws into a stepladder shape. Rebar 10 mm, length 6m and 3m. The step of the frames is 40 mm.

Knitting frames

I threw the reinforcement cages on the walls. I had to tinker with 6 m frames. Not so much heavy as uncomfortable for lifting in the center, they bend.

I cut and bent the corner reinforcement elements to tie the reinforcement cage in the corners. I did some with a bend, tk. their length seemed insufficient.

Reinforcement options for corner joints of reinforcement in the reinforcement cage.

Under the reinforcement I substituted the previously cast supports from the remains of concrete. The optimal concrete cover height will be obtained.

Further - the laying of the internal walls (they are also load-bearing, one slab will lie on them). And the installation of an armored belt above them.

To be continued…

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Photos of the author (c)

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