Finishing facade brick cottage: Possible problems and solutions

Modern construction market offers a variety of finishing materials. But brick facades so popular with private developers. According to many, the cottage is lined with brick, solid looks, and the facade itself has high durability and trouble-free operation.

These statements are only true when the main condition - brick facade is made by all the rules and using high-quality materials. Otherwise, instead of the prestige of this decision will turn into a real headache for its owner.

In this article we will discuss:

• What kind of nuances you need to know before oblitsevat brick house.
• Do I need a ventilation gap when the brick wall covering.
• The better to associate with facing brick bearing wall.
• Is it possible to impose a wooden house brick.

Features brick wall facing the house

Most often, the developer, decided to oblitsevat brick house, guided by the banal "want". At the same time it overlooked a lot of things that directly affect the performance and lifetime of the facade, the most important of which - the project.

Material facade, in this case the brick should still thought through to the home design stage and not be left "for later".

If we ignore this rule, after the construction of "box" there are a bunch of problems. It turns out that the width of the foundation is insufficient for supporting the bricks, as the host at the stage of construction has decided to further insulate the walls. Facade facing brick (and it has a large weight) exceeds the bearing capacity and strength of the base of the foundation, resulting masonry crack.

The workers did not know how to tie a brick facade with the load-bearing walls. As usual, do it "in his own way" and "as easy" using as a binder metal or fiberglass mesh, galvanized thin strips, etc.

Therefore, to make adjustments and corrections in the course of construction, which inevitably leads to additional material cost, are guided by the following rules:

• Brick facade should be seen in close connection with the load-bearing wall materials, insulation views (if any), the architecture of the house and its design.
• Brick facade takes significant wind loads, which then, through a special communication to be transmitted to the load-bearing walls. Those. there is a system: load-bearing wall facade.
• The term of service of the facade, as well as all of its structural elements, connections, insulation, etc., must comply with lifetime bearing walls of the house. Those. - system components: bearing wall facade must be balanced.

If, let's say, the facade should last for 50-60 years, and the connection or insulation lost their properties after 10-15 years, it will lead to the need for major and expensive repairs. Run it without dismantling or partial disassembly of masonry, it is impossible.

Many nuances, and for each element of the brick facade system can write a separate article. Therefore, the following will be given the answers to the most common questions that novice developers, the example of aerated concrete and bar-shaped house.

Do I need a ventilation gap at facing a brick wall

Motorist (User FORUMHOUSE):

I have read on our website is not a theme, but did not find the exact answer, whether it is necessary to leave an air gap in the construction of the house of aerated concrete, the walls of which want to impose a brick.

To answer this question, we must imagine a wall in section and remember the rule, which was mentioned above: the inner wall of the facade + = single system. Hence, Asking the basic conditions for the solution of the problem.

Thus, the wall can be a two-layer (carrier + brick façade wall) or three-layer (carrier + Wall insulation brick facade +).

Assume inner cabin walls are made of aerated concrete D400. This material (as wood) permeable. Therefore, the water vapor out of the house, due to the partial pressure moves from inside to outside. If the water vapor does not meet obstacles in its path, it will go smoothly from the enclosing structure.

Brick facade has a lower water vapor permeability than the aerated concrete / wood. As a result violated rule vapor permeability layers in multilayer structures should increase from the inside outward.

Those. there is a possibility that the water vapor "will lock" in the wall (especially if the brick is put close to the aerated concrete). This will lead to waterlogging walling. The situation may be exacerbated during the winter heating season, as due to temperature differences within the warm and heated room on a cold street traffic water vapor from the inside to the outside increase.

The air gap, and note necessarily vented, allowing excess water vapor is free to withdraw from the wall.

Wall turns "healthy" and warm (because at excess vlagonakoplenii increases the thermal conductivity of the material, and the wall becomes the "cold"). In addition, excess moisture in the wall can cause scratches on it (interior finishing) mold and mildew, as aerated concrete will have to dry inside.

Negativ (Member FORUMHOUSE):

I am a supporter of a ventilated air gap, the size of 2.5 cm between the carrier wall and brickwork.

The average thickness of the air gap is usually in the range of 3 to 4 cm.

So, we decided, do the air gap. To become vented at the bottom of masonry arranged air holes - vents. Through these air flows inward. Further, due to the thrust arisen (b.p. overhead clearance does not overlap, and connected to a ventilated under-roof air duct) is output from the skate home.

In addition, through the air holes also displayed condensation that may appear on the inner surface of the lining brick. Accordingly, not forget seal the bearing assembly brickwork at the bottom, e.g., by relying on the foundation or on a monolithic shelf.

Air gap optimize the system operation: load-bearing walls - brick masonry.

If the wall is three-layer, ie, it is planned to additional insulation, the water vapor that has passed through the bearing wall and the insulation (Mineral wool), a mandatory need to take, as soaked insulation loses its function and significantly reduced its term service.

For ease of understanding when constructing a brick façade adhere same recommendations that during assembly of ventilated facades. In particular: protecting insulation moisture and windproof membrane that also prevents the removal of particles of insulation.

Of course, we can say that the removal of particles of mineral wool insulation is minimal, and the insulation is not waterlogged to critical levels and, consequently, there is no need to spend money on membrane. But remember, that the avaricious pays twice.

Brick facade - very expensive. Costs for the purchase of high-quality wind and moisture protection does not lead to a significant increase in the cost of the whole structure, with an overall increase in the reliability and service life.

Remember the third rule, that all elements of the system must be balanced, and the replacement of the insulation means dismantling the facade.

It is also often heard the question, with some step to make air holes in the front of the masonry?

Skinteks (User FORUMHOUSE):

I make three-layer ventilated facade - the bearing wall, mineral wool, a gap of about 4-5 cm, face brick. Accordingly, the vertical seams are planning to leave empty for ventilation on the bottom row of masonry. How to do it? Through the seam or two seam on the third? How many voids enough?

Visual response gives the following picture.

Note: there is also the expert opinion that should not leave the air holes in the top of the brickwork, because this will lead to the fact that the air flow will go the path of least resistance (ie through the upper air holes), and we need that the air flow is from the bottom went, ventilating the entire masonry.

To produhi looked neat and aesthetically pleasing, and not as a "matchlock", from the voids between bricks, blank solution, they can be run using special elements - ventilation-osuschayuschy boxes. Color boxes you can pick up in the colors of the masonry, and the air holes hardly be noticeable.

How to tie a facing brick wall with a carrier

We have already said that the brick facade takes considerable dynamic wind loads to be transmitted to the bearing wall. The larger the area of ​​the facade and the higher the number of storeys of the house, the greater the load. Therefore it can not be used as a binder "folk" methods. Namely - the "soft" - basalt or fiberglass mesh, etc. These materials, due to the relatively high degree of flexibility and pliability will not be able to transfer the load. Those. System: bearing wall - brick walls will not work.

Moreover, the question of how many links should be 1 square. m, given one answer - it is the calculated value, depending on the load and wind power construction in a particular region. The take 5 pieces as a guide. 1 sq. m masonry.

We proceed to the choice of ties, which are subject to the following requirements:

• high strength;
• long life, because connection operate in harsh environments with high humidity, frequent transitions through "0";
• high corrosion resistance.

AleksandrNF (User FORUMHOUSE):

I am building a house of aerated concrete. I poured the foundation, built the walls, bought a face brick. Wondered how to link gas silicate with face brick.

Before answering this question, explain that you should not use. Based on the requirements to the links listed above. Thus, popular among builders embodiment - galvanized thin plate (e.g., perforated or suspensions for gypsum board designed for internal work) not tested for durability. Such a plate thickness of about 0.5 - 1 mm may rust due to condensation forming on the inner surface facing brick. The layer of zinc could damage the wafer during laying, etc.

In addition, the thin plate is easy to bend. This is an advantage for the builders (they physically comfortable to work with such "links") turns into a disadvantage for the developer.

"Flexible" link of this type will not be able to fully convey the dynamic wind loads on the facade on a bearing wall.

The most rational materials for couplings are two options - the use of stainless steel (plates or bars of about 6 mm in diameter) using flexible or basalt bonds.

Communication lays not in the seam gas silicate, and in the "body" of the block.

kodokopatel (User FORUMHOUSE):

I have used these links. Flexible, of course, can only be called conditionally, since their hands are not particularly sognosh. But such links provide some movement, allowing node "bearing wall-masonry" to play against each other.

Unlike metal, plastic is not "bridge cold" and not subject to corrosion.

There are other options.

Sadovnik62 (User FORUMHOUSE):

I used fiberglass rebar diameter of 6 mm. Armature is attached to the Gazoblok after hole-drilling placing it on the chemical anchor. Other way is simply not found. Thin galvanized prorzhaveet in ventzazore. I have also tried to lay the plate thickness of 2 mm at a seam adhesive aerated concrete masonry. I abandoned this idea. It would seem that such a plate thickness of 2 mm, but this gives an error in the entire row when tonkoshovnoy laying and before putting the next, it is necessary to level the surface of the blocks.

Typically, when constructing a brick façade apply the following rule: erecting walls and only thereafter proceed to the installation and laying ties facing brick. But it happens that the masonry walls and the facade is carried out almost simultaneously.

The main thing with this - control workers at all stages, as check the quality of the hidden works after completion of masonry impossible. Builders to simplify your task, can lay a smaller number of connections, lay anchor on the lack of depth in the masonry, etc.

Buying anchor, it is necessary to calculate in advance the length based on the following values:

• The depth of the anchor tabs in the bearing wall - about 100 mm.
• Add the thickness of the insulation (if there is one).
• Add the width of the ventilation gap.
• Laying the anchor in the front brick of calculation - does not reach about 2 cm to the front of the masonry. Communication should not start in the outer seam.
• We add approximately 2 cm in stock, since wall can be rough (the deviation from the vertical load-bearing wall), and if you take the link back to back, can not suffice for its length bookmarks to the desired depth.

How to impose a wooden house with brick

While this decision is common among budget conscious developers, it is controversial. Too many variables must be considered. For example, a house made of logs (depending on region of residence) does not pass on the modern requirements of the thermal resistance of enclosing structures. Accordingly, such a house have to insulate.

Use heaters on the basis of expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) and Epps (extruded polystyrene) is impossible for heat insulated wooden house. Although these options and there.

The fact that these types of heaters are not permeable to water vapor. He will lock in the wall, which will begin to rot. In addition, these materials are combustible and in the event of fire, the fire quickly spread in the ventilation air gap, and the house is almost impossible to extinguish.

Styrofoam building codes may not be used in the device of ventilated facades.

If warm wooden house, the only mineral wool insulation. Nevertheless, the question of how to impose a brick blockhouse, common among developers who are planning to give the house a solid appearance.

sasha508 (FORUMHOUSE User):

I have built a house made of logs. I want to warm it up and lined with brick. How to do it?

On this issue, the portal heated debate. Members were divided into two camps. The first - those who believe that this is not worth, in the second of the opinion that you can try.

Having decided to impose a brick wooden house, remember that the tree - it is a "living" material is subject to seasonal fluctuations in humidity. Log cabin dries, sits down and throughout the period of operation of the house lives his life.

If a tie brick facade to the wooden walls of the rigid - for example, creating a connection, by driving two long nails "150" at an angle of 45 degrees, if the tree "gulnot" brickwork crack. Also it is necessary to calculate the number and cross-section of the air holes for adequate ventilation in the gap. If you make a mistake - we get insufficient ventilation, condensation, rotting wood, mold and fungus inside the premises.

In addition, the rule is violated balanced system. It may happen that the brick facade will last much longer than the wooden house.

Nevertheless, sasha508 I have started to work, and this is what eventually happened.

The house has changed dramatically.

Now lumber house looks like a solid beautiful cottage, built entirely of brick.

Interesting nuances of construction.

Epps house is insulated by wrapping lumber outside walls, under slabs, moisture windproof film. Note that the extruded polystyrene vapor barrier, and L-stykovanie edges provides neproduvaemost compound. Therefore, house wrap film under a heater - extra work.

Ventilation gap - about 50-60 mm. From inside the house paroizolirovan. This minimized the amount of water vapor that can get into the wooden wall, covered externally with a vapor heater (Epps). Thereby reducing the likelihood that the timber will begin to rot and rot.

While on our site there are many examples of successful electrode facing brick wooden house, this option requires the facade big building culture of the workers, and any mistake can lead to a significant reduction in bearing life design.

Alehandrovich (User FORUMHOUSE):

While developers say, Behold, I overlaid the wooden house brick, and for 10 years nothing has decayed, I would say that 10 years - it is not an indicator. there ishouse, and stood at 50 years in which the special rot you will not see, but the wood is simply perish, it is very soft, the house provides a large shrinkage, the wall arches "barrel".

Summarizing

Having decided to impose a brick house, remember that it is - an expensive process, and this facade must be the decade. In contrast to the siding, it is impossible, in which case, dismantle the structure, see what's going on inside, pull out the insulation, replace communication, etc. Therefore, a beautiful brick facade stands on the "three pillars ":

• Competent calculations.
• Using high-quality materials with a long service life.
• Total control of the progress of all works, that perform work.

Just keeping these conditions, you can get a brick facade to all the neighbors envy!

Those who are thinking about or have a brick facade it builds, useful articles, How can I prevent or remove efflorescence appeared with brick facade. We also recommend an article, which contains a selection of different options for the walls of a stone house.

In addition, there are topics on FORUMHOUSE about how to impose a brick house lumberAnd that eventually came out of it, need or no ventilation gap in the aerated concrete house lined with brick, and how to choose a flexible basalt connection.

A video is shown, how oblitsevat facade with natural stone.

Discuss the article and read other materials devoted to country life you can on the websiteFORUMHOUSE.

Subscribe to the channel so as not to miss the next release!