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How to choose an air conditioner for heating: a fraction of my experience

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In my previous articles, I have repeatedly said that I heat a house with an area of ​​100 sq.m. air-conditioned that allows you to save a lot on heating: from 1 kWh of electricity, my air conditioner produces up to 3.81 kW heat.

If you missed these articles, here is link.

And here I will tell you how to choose the right air conditioner for heating.
For not every model will allow you to economically heat the house in the winter, and not in the off-season.

How to choose an air conditioner for heating: a fraction of my experience

The first tip is to buy an inverter model. Fortunately, there are many of them on the market now. The essence of the inverter is that it allows the air conditioner to work not always at full capacity, but to consume as much energy as is required to reach the desired temperature.

For example, an ordinary "start-stop" spends a stable 3.2 kW even if you want to raise the temperature in the house, say, from 16 to 20 degrees. In this case, the inverter will take only 1000-1200 watts from the outlet. The proof is a photo from a wattmeter through which my condender works.
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At the time of this photo, the air conditioner was consuming 1148 watts. Within 15-20 minutes, when the set temperature was reached, the consumption dropped to 500 watts - with such a ridiculous consumption, the air conditioner maintains the temperature at 60 "squares". How do you like that?

Second - if you have an extra 3-4 thousand in your pocket, order a "winter kit" for the air conditioner, It includes two devices: a regular heating a cable that is laid on the bottom of the external unit, and an electronic device that allows you to reduce the consumption of the condenser in the mode defrost.

Who does not know, when working for heating in conditions of high humidity (from 70%) and a temperature of minus 5-6 degrees, the outdoor unit is covered with frost every hour and a half. It’s the air conditioner that thaws. And the heating cable in the sump prevents water from freezing and damaging the fan impeller.

I did not have the opportunity to buy a "winter kit", so I worked on the collective farm independently:

I made an end sleeve (yellow), laid the cable, pulled it off with plastic clamps so as not to do additional holes in the bottom (this will void my warranty), I put U-shaped neodymium magnets with a large downforce). The pallet is dry, there is almost no ice.

Third tip - perhaps one of the most important nuances, which many people forget, is the adjustment of the blinds. If the indoor unit can blow vertically downwards, this is best. In this situation, you warm not only the air in the room, but also a solid spot on the floor under the air conditioner - and your feet are much warmer.

Fourth, look for an air conditioner that heats up to at least -15 degrees Celsius. Winters are warm these days, and that's enough for your eyes. If the thermometer drops below 15 degrees, you will have to switch to an alternative: convectors or an oven. And if the budget allows, take a look at the models that work up to -25 - these are the ICY 2 and ICY 3 series (up to -30).

In general, I note that with the advent of an air conditioner for heating in a house, electricity bills have become 2.3 times lower on average, although the winter of 2020 is more severe than the winter of 2019.

I will be glad to answer your questions in the comments!

It is difficult to highlight all the nuances in one article, so I'll add in the comments!

#garden and cottage#water#heating#air conditioning#Heat pump

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