Why I sow root celery in the first decade of February: I share my personal experience of growing and give practical advice

Root celery is not easy to grow. Some gardeners, after unsuccessful attempts, leave this venture. Today I want to share my experience of growing this healthy and very tasty vegetable crop.

For celery, a temperate climate (approximately + 18-20 degrees) is best suited, with an even supply of moisture. It is enough to dry the soil once or twice, and the end of your efforts.

The soil should be moisture-absorbing, loamy and even clayey with a large supply of nutrients.

Root celery has a very long growing season - more than 180-200 days (in the fall, it is not afraid of small frosts, and therefore it is dug out later).

After February 10, you should think about sowing celery for seedlings! It is very difficult to grow normal 50-60 day old seedlings in rooms. Seeds sprout for a long time.

Tips for growing seedlings:

Keep the seeds in the dark and warm (up to 25 degrees) until germination. As soon as small white seedlings appear, then immediately expose for four days in a sunny, cold room with a low temperature. The following law applies here: half to the optimum temperature, that is, for celery 9 - 10 degrees.

Only then transfer to warmth for growth. In this case, your seedlings will not stretch and turn yellow.

In open ground, the matured seedlings are transplanted in the 20th of May. Between the plants should be at least 20 cm. We are applying decimation.

In the first half of the summer, you need to spud the celery several times. Do not expose the root vegetable, it should not be exposed to sunlight, otherwise it will turn green and become unusable for food.

I would also like to tell you about the pest of root celery, which few people know about, but from it the roots become flabby and tasteless. It is in every vegetable garden. This is a root aphid.

It migrates to all vegetable plants from the Celery family (dill, celery, carrots, parsley). First, it settles at the base of the leaves, and then, in the second half of summer, moves to root crops. In places where the colony develops, solid nodules are formed, and the surface is deformed. I advise you to fight root aphids with the help of the preparation Bi-58.

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