Aerated concrete interior walls on the second floor

At the end of April, positive night temperatures have finally been established and concrete work can be resumed. Let me remind you that the interfloor floors are slab (PC series) and you can mount interior partitions made of aerated concrete not only in the places where they rest on the armored belt (no drywall).

I placed blocks on the floor, cut to size in accordance with the project. I circled them, transferred the outline to the floor. In addition to the bearing, there will be three walls on the floor. Two - to the left and right of the staircase, and it's too early to talk about the third. Under it, between the plates, you need to fill in a monolithic section (in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe exit of the future chimney of the furnace).

I share my advice on how to apply the solution along the marked contour and install the blocks in the same place. After all, after applying the mortar, the lines on the floor will disappear and it will not be visible where to put the blocks. For this, I temporarily installed other blocks on all sides of the markup. I put the mortar inside and further into this space I installed the blocks of the first row of the future wall. You can pull the mooring threads around the edges of the blocks. But it seemed like a long markup to me.

The solution was mixed in a ratio of 1 to 3 (cement and sand). Add water depending on the moisture content of the sand. No plasticizers, otherwise the solution will not hold the blocks.

I checked it with a level in two planes. The vertical seam was made with glue-foam. If the seam is made with mineral glue for aerated concrete, then the geometry of the first row will change to the thickness of the seams. The solution from under the blocks of the first row spreads out if you immediately remove the excess, the blocks can tilt. Let it grab a little. Otherwise, under the weight of the blocks, the solution will continue to be squeezed out, the masonry will be crooked.

I turn to the second wall. Rather, to the opening of the wall in this place. The beginning was laid at the end of last season. Here, two halves of the blocks must be laid on the mortar. The void under one block - this place is left under the ladder beam (it will be poured along with the ladder and rest on it, and not on the floor slab).

When the solution has ceased to be plastic, I remove the excess and smooth the vertical with a trowel. Remains of mortar sealed the locks in the masonry of the block of the outer walls.

As many have probably seen, even my non-load-bearing walls are not thin. One of the walls is 200 mm and 150 mm thick. The second is 200 mm. This is done due to the fact that a ventilation duct with a diameter of 100 mm will pass inside. Well, I don't consider walls less than 150 mm to be walls with normal noise insulation.

While the mortar of the first row is grabbing (I am waiting to continue the upper rows), I reported the blocks on the inner bearing wall above the previously poured lintels.

I continued laying on the mineral glue for aerated concrete (horizontal seam). Applied with a notched trowel. I have not bought a bucket yet. There are smudges, but they are not critical on the walls inside the house. Vertical seams - also on polyurethane foam adhesive for precision masonry.

In the corner part of the masonry, it was necessary to cut out part of the block of the second row. The masonry was laid last autumn. The strength of the seam surprised me. The glue securely held the blocks together and the aerated concrete itself was torn. This place was rubbed with a trowel for aerated concrete (from sandpaper with a grit of H100).

A few words about anchoring the blocks to the wall (I did not do any bandaging with it in advance). To do this, I drove in a piece of fiberglass reinforcement, sawn off at an angle, I selected a groove in the block with a drill and mounted it on this reinforcement through glue. Vertical as always - on glue-foam. Bandaging through a perforated tape, as many do, seemed pointless to me.

There is a flooring against the outer wall. I do not remove it yet, tk. I’m waiting for the earth to dry out so that the truck’s manipulator can mount the lintels over the window openings. They will be factory-supplied. Also, I am not showing yet how I made the holes for the ventilation pipe. A separate article will be devoted to this.

***

Subscribe to the channel, add it to your browser bookmarks (Ctrl + D). There is a lot of interesting information ahead.