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Three valuable tips from a professional drywall decorator. And how I didn’t think of this myself

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I started home renovation: leveling the ceiling and walls with plasterboard, then putty and painting.

Part of the prepared materials for repair. Photo by the author
Part of the prepared materials for repair. Photo by the author
Part of the prepared materials for repair. Photo by the author

It seems to be nothing particularly complicated, but I would like to do well in order to end up with even walls and ceilings without cracks.

To a greater extent, I know how to work with wood, but I have a very rough idea of ​​working with drywall.

But on the other hand, I have someone to ask: my nephew has just returned from another business trip. He is a professional decorator and knows a thing or two about working with drywall.

From him I learned three simple and useful things, or as it is now fashionable to say "life hacks", which allow you to work with drywall as efficiently as possible.

The first - when leveling the ceiling with plasterboard, it is better to arrange whole sheets so that the end joints of sheets of different strips do not end up on the same line. By the type of brickwork.

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This arrangement will reduce the likelihood of a crack at the end joint.

The photo shows three sheets of drywall on the ceiling. Two sheets were screwed from the right wall, and the sheet was in the middle of the left, that is, the insert was between two whole sheets.
The photo shows three sheets of drywall on the ceiling. Two sheets were screwed from the right wall, and the sheet was in the middle of the left, that is, the insert was between two whole sheets.

Second - the end joint of two sheets can be glued onto the polyurethane foam. You will get a more reliable end connection of the sheets, and after gluing the tape for joints and puttying, there will probably be no cracks.

End connection of drywall sheets to polyurethane foam. In order for the foam to cling to the gypsum better, the end of the sheet can be wiped with a damp cloth.
End connection of drywall sheets to polyurethane foam. In order for the foam to cling to the gypsum better, the end of the sheet can be wiped with a damp cloth.

Third. When installing drywall sheets, chips or parts of the sheet are squeezed out with a self-tapping screw. If you leave everything as it is, then when puttying, difficulties may arise: bubbles from loose paper or a thick layer of putty.

In this case, polyurethane foam will also help. The place of the chip must be freed from loose paper and chipped pieces of plaster. Then foam, and after the foam dries, cut off the excess. After that, it will be easier to putty such a chip.

The self-tapping screw did not tighten to the end and pressed the sheet. The result is an extruded chip. He removed the paper and some of the gypsum, and then filled the hole with polyurethane foam.
The self-tapping screw did not tighten to the end and pressed the sheet. The result is an extruded chip. He removed the paper and some of the gypsum, and then filled the hole with polyurethane foam.
Chipped from the edge of the sheet. It turned out because of the unevenness of the wall.
Chipped from the edge of the sheet. It turned out because of the unevenness of the wall.

These are seemingly simple tips, but I already feel more confident. Moreover, these are not some "Secret knowledge"rather ingenuity and common sense.

Also, while my nephew had not left, I asked him to show how to seal the seams and putty walls and ceilings.

With apparent simplicity, this work requires certain skills to obtain a high-quality surface.

Well, I'll finish the sheets and train to putty.

Thanks for reading. I would be glad to have your support in the form of a like and a subscription to the channel. And see other publications on the channel.

Alexander.

P.S. I also invite you to your site.

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