How to install a cast iron bath
Bathroom renovation is not only finishing the floor and walls, but also installing new plumbing. A cast iron bath is one of the most important pieces of bathroom equipment. The issue of its installation is solved quite simply, it is only necessary to follow all the installation steps exactly, having prepared a set of necessary tools.
Cast iron bath: Installation instructions
Before starting the installation, you need to prepare the following set of tools:
- hammer;
- Screwdriver Set;
- chisel;
- grinder (if you need to cut off old pipes);
- gas key;
- building level;
- roulette;
- steel wire (for grounding);
- silicone sealant;
- grounding conductor;
- mounting polyurethane foam;
- set of drain fittings (for drain-overflow);
- drain corrugation with a diameter of 40 mm.
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Cast iron bath installation
- The first choice is the type of installation of the bath and the height. The standard version using the legs supplied in the kit is not always convenient. Therefore, bricks will be used on which it is securely placed.
To mark the installation height, you must use a meter and a simple pencil. The highest point is marked on the surface of the wall (from the side of the future bath), from this point ceramic tiles will be laid up to the ceiling.
After the height issue is resolved, a special gasket is attached along the walls to eliminate the gap between the bath rim and the wall. For this, a wooden beam is used, the thickness of which should be equal to the width of the side. A strip of moisture-resistant drywall will go along its upper part.
Since the cast-iron bathtub is quite weighty, during its installation it should be temporarily supported with slats, and not just placed on a gasket bar. The level checks the correct installation, the sides should fit snugly against the walls and the lower edge of the facing ceramic tiles.
A drain siphon is connected, if necessary, a piece of plastic pipe is cut off with a suitable diameter for draining. It is necessary to immediately check the tightness of all connections by turning on the water with a slight pressure. Once the cork is opened, all the water should be gone fairly quickly.
- The ground wire from the bath is pulled to a steel water pipe or a specially prepared conductor.
Brick supports are installed in the places of fasteners for legs, masonry is done using cement mortar. The gap remaining between the supports and the bottom of the bath must be very carefully sealed with mortar. After both supports are ready, the retaining temporary bars are removed.
Work on installing a false brick wall should begin with markings on the floor, taking into account the thickness of the brick, the layer of glue. The brick is placed on the edge, it is regularly required to check the verticality with a level. The wall should reach the edge of the bath, without protruding beyond its line.
Since the bathtub is often used for washing, a small footwell is made in the front of the wall. Its optimal dimensions: height - 20 cm, width - 40 cm, depth - 20 cm (can be changed, it all depends on personal ease of use).
Opposite the siphon, a technological hole must be left in the wall for inspection and maintenance. After the construction of the niche, a small hatch will be placed here.
The front surface of the wall is finished with ceramic tiles when the masonry mortar is completely dry. The top row is laid first, then the bottom one (the tiles are trimmed if necessary). First, it is recommended to glue whole tiles, the remains are trimmed and attached last.
The gap between the wall and the sides of the bath is laid out with strips of tiles, for this a special tile adhesive is used.
An inspection hatch made of metal is mounted.
The seams of the tiles are filled with grout, after drying, the tiles are wiped with a slightly damp cloth.
This completes the installation of the cast iron bath.
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