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How to check if the battery is charged or not without any devices

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Let's imagine a normal situation: the radio-controlled mouse is dead, the stores are closed, and you need to work on the computer. What will you do? I think that many people have at home not only a package of packages, but also a box of old batteries that they did not have time to dispose of. It remains to choose from them the one that can work at least a little. I'll tell you how to check the battery for performance without a multimeter and other devices.

For the purity of the experiment, we first measure the battery charge with a multimeter

In my "bins of the motherland" power sources were lying around that were completely planted to zero, and those that can still work in devices with low energy consumption: a computer mouse or remote control TV.

I marked the healthy ones with a red marker, and the “dead” ones with black. So that there is no doubt, we will measure the voltage and current strength with a multimeter.

A working battery showed a voltage of 1.47 volts.
A working battery showed a voltage of 1.47 volts.
A working battery showed a voltage of 1.47 volts.
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A working battery showed a voltage of 1.47 volts. 1.5 volts is its nominal value. +/- 1 volt difference is acceptable. The power supply can be considered working. But you need to control the current.

The current in the working battery is 2.43 amperes.
The current in the working battery is 2.43 amperes.

A new power supply should deliver a current of 4 to 6 amperes - these are its operating parameters. But if the current sank to 2-3 amperes, the battery can still serve in a computer mouse.

For the purity of the experiment, let's look at the parameters of non-working batteries. Let me remind you, I marked them with a black marker. We will still need this information.

Voltage - 0.02 volts.
Voltage - 0.02 volts.
The current strength is 0 amperes.
The current strength is 0 amperes.

Such a power source could be safely disposed of after measuring the voltage. Current strength parameters confirmed the diagnosis.

How to check the battery for performance without devices

No measurements could be made. I ran them only in order to confirm the diagnosis, which we will now arrive at in a different way.

We raise the battery 20-30 cm above the table and drop it vertically with the negative pole down. If there is a charge, it will simply tip over on its side when it hits the table. A discharged element will “jump” up after being hit.

The working battery drops. Non-working - jumping.
The working battery drops. Non-working - jumping.
The working battery drops. Non-working - jumping.

It is better to repeat the experiment several times. It happens that a discharged battery falls on its edge and does not bounce off the surface. But the charged element never bounced.

I didn't know about these details before. He would probably start chewing on the battery or squashing it in the door frame to squeeze out some power. And now I determine the performance in a matter of seconds.

If the information turned out to be useful for you, as it was for me before, you can like it as a “thank you” 👍. Learn from the mistakes of others and make as few of your own as possible. If suddenly not signed, welcome to the channel.

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