Warm water floor as part of an autonomous system of the house

FORUMHOUSE have repeatedly talked about the basic principles of design and construction of autonomous country house. The essence of all materials is as follows - "autonomy" at everyone. Before buying land, which is not present or is not expected at least a centralized power supply, you need 100 times to think, and whether you need it. Because material investments in the construction of the house is completely autonomous, provided that this is not the southern regions, may exceed all reasonable limits.

The purpose of this article - practical advice on self-device water floor heating as one of the elements inzhenerki real, not mythical autonomous house.

So, we'll:

• What prevents the build fully autonomous house in Russia.
• What are the features calculation of floor heating.
• Can floor heating being the only country house heating system.
• What nuances should be considered for self-installation of floor heating.

Possible problems of building an autonomous house

On a warm water box on our site many articles and created a variety of topics where users share their experience of its installation. Nevertheless, questions from novice developers that kind of system, and what are the pros and cons of it has, much remains. To avoid repetition, we recommend you read the article

"Warm floor - tips and advice on choosing"Where experts explain in detail about the basic principles of operation and advantages of the radiant heating system.

We try to look at warm water floor on the other side and consider it as an element that increases the autonomy of a country house. To begin, let's deal with the concept of "self-contained house" in relation to our country.

Practice shows that a stand-alone home abroad and we - are two big differences in their approach to its design and construction, as well as to further use. Most often, a novice developer is self-contained cottage as a fully independent from all external power grid. Simply put, the house is equipped with engineering devices that generate enough electricity to power all the equipment in the cottage. This may be a boiler, pumps, household appliances, etc.

Uninterruptible power supply depends entirely on the "life" of a modern home.

If, in the extreme case, the water can be extracted from the well house to heat with coal or firewood, then, relatively speaking, if you pull the modern cottage "from the socket" that will stop all the "inzhenerki". We do not consider special cases of the construction of a fully-volatile homes that are heated stove and the heating system is built on the principle of gravity works, ie It does not require circulation pumps.

The main "pitfall" for developers, who decided to go to the "avtonomku" is that solar panels, solar collectors and wind turbines, due to the high cost, can not be used in cold regions of Russia, as the only energy sources.

Often, calculate the cost of construction of such a system, for example, on the basis of solar cells, in which the "weak point" become expensive batteries - they need to be replaced every few years, given the lack of sunny days, the user understands that the costs never repulse.

The larger the area of ​​the house, the more expensive to translate it into a fully autonomous energy supply.

When it comes to overseas experience, many think: "that's in them... and why it is here". But, for example, in Germany, wind turbines have long become a routine, and excess electricity produced at "solar farm" private trader can sell the electricity grid. "Green" energy "out there" is subsidized, and the government strongly encourages its development, each year increasing the production alternativke. It plays an important role and a mild climate.

In our reality the developer has to, first of all, to rely on themselves. And, although the number of enthusiasts is increasing the autonomy and the system becomes more accessible every year, in most cases, developers are interested in only a partial independent power supply of the cottage. Those. the opportunity to comfortably ride out the emergency power outage or an accident in the boiler room - winter and not freeze. In this case, in the first place there is a bunch of Autonomous House - cost house, Consumes less energy in the event of force majeure.

Accordingly, the modern country house should be teploinertsionnym - ie its structure must be designed in such a way that the structure in normal use to store energy. To do this, the walls, floor, ceiling built from materials having large mass, as well as a good heat capacity and heat dissipation.

A good example of this wall material - the usual brick. Of course, this is not always possible to do (eg, frame houses). In this case, the warm floor water becomes one of the elements, increases the autonomy of a country house.

Warm water floor as part of an autonomous system of the house

So, self-contained house to be energy-efficient and energy-saving. Those. all heat loss in the building should be kept to a reasonable minimum. This automatically pulls the need for construction of thermally insulating hermetic closed loop. Because less than the heat loss, the less energy is required (including alternative sources) to fill them.

Our portal has already touched on the subject, profitable to build energy-efficient house. Summing up the summary of this article, let's say that a house should be balanced and provide a system where all the elements matched to each other. Simply put, it is not necessary to engage in ekstrautepleniem walls, if windows installed in conventional glazing, ventilation without heat recovery, and the foundation is not insulated.

Now consider how to reduce energy consumption affects water floor heating system, which is the so-called surface radiant heating system. When using radiant heat is the person perceives as more comfortable than heat at the radiator - convection heating. As a result, one can lower the temperature in the living space of about 2 ° C. For example, by making it not to 19-22 ° C (averaged comfortable temperature) and 18 ° C.

This is one of the ways of saving, which is important for the construction of an autonomous house. Second nuance - a warm floor - a low-temperature heating system. Ie, unlike radiator heating, we do not need to heat the heating medium to a high temperature, which also saves energy. When calculating the underfloor focus on the following data on the temperature of its surfaces:

• Maximum for premises - 28-29 ° C (at a temperature of 20 ° C inside air).
• Maximum for toilets and bathrooms, ie where man appears periodically - not more than 33 ° C (at a temperature of 24 ° C inside air).

If the heated surface of floor heating to higher temperatures, on a surface uncomfortable stand, and the room will be hot, not to mention the possible problems with the blood circulation of the lower limbs person.

Underfloor heating as the only heating system of a country house

The third plus underfloor heating - high heat storage capacity. Those. Such a system becomes a "stove", gives off heat for a long time even when disconnected coolant circulation. This is due to the fact that the floor heating pipe laid in the concrete floor, well insulated from the underlying layers of the coating structure. When warming up a large concrete mass it accumulates heat, which is especially important for frame houses with their low thermal inertia.

Following the withdrawal of the floor heating in the operating mode can be switched off during the day and warm the floor, due to the inertia of the system will continue to give off heat. Improve the efficiency of this mode of operation is possible by adding a heat storage system.

An interesting experience of the user of the portal Alexander Fedortsova (nick Skeptic).

skeptic (Member FORUMHOUSE):

Even heating electricity can be cheaper if you build on the foundation of the right karkasnik and UWB heat the house water underfloor in conjunction with accumulator tank in which water is heated at night TAN tariff.

Very often, users are asked whether it is possible to heat the house only a warm floor, and whether it will be cost-effective?

The answer is - it is a settlement figure. Because efficiency underfloor heating as the only heating system depends on heat loss at home, region of residence, size of rooms, etc.

For a basic understanding of the following rules: effective heating system should compensate for the heat loss, ie give the amount of heat in a house is gone.

To do this, be sure to heat loss calculation is performed, after which you may find that one only underfloor heating is insufficient and requires a combined heating system: warm floor + radiators.

Radiators compensate for the difference between the calculated heat loss at home and the actual heat output of floor heating.

Heat transfer floor heating with 1 sq. m is calculated by the following formula:

q = 8.92 x (ts- TV)1,1,

Where:

q - heat flow of the floor surface, W / m2;

ts - the mean temperature of the floor surface - 29 ° C;

TV - the average air temperature - 20 ° C.

Substituting values ​​into the formula.

q = 8.92 * (29 - 20) 1.1= 100 W / m2.

Those. 1 sq. m warm floor compensates the heat loss to 100 watts. Do not forget that in the operation of the system affects the area of ​​the exposed surface of the floor space where a surface mounted radiant heating.

For example, if, relatively speaking, it is required to heat a room area of ​​50 sq. m, the surface of the floor is crowded with furniture to a minimum, we can remove the underfloor heating over high heat.

If you want to heat a room of 25 square meters. m, most of which are crowded closets, bed stands, etc., it reduces the effective area of ​​underfloor heating and thus its heat dissipation.

In addition, the additional installation of radiators compensates the disadvantage of floor heating as long (relative to the radiator) access to the operating mode of operation. Accordingly, if the room you want to quickly raise the temperature, this is done by means of radiators, not to wait until warmed floor heating.

RomanXRoman (User FORUMHOUSE):

I'm building a two-storey house of aerated concrete D500. 40 cm width of the block. I am doing on the ground floor. Heating combined plan - floor heating and radiators. For this, I alone fulfilled the heat loss calculation in the specialized program.

Reducing heat loss from the house, we increase its energy efficiency and the degree of autonomy and efficiency. Because make autonomous well warmed house (within reasonable limits) is cheaper than trying to increase the capacity of the backup power supply system. Also, remember the rule that all components of the system - "box" -teploizolyatsiya-engineering systems - must be balanced.

In the end it turned out that the heat loss around the house make up 14 kW. Of these, the first floor had a little more than 7 kW. Calculation underfloor heat showed that the five circuits in the amount of heat will give 4.75 kW (about 70% of the required value). Shortage in the 2.35 kW (30%) cover three radiator.

For clarity, the attached chart:

1) The layout of the floor heating loops

2) Radiator

After calculations, budgeting and procurement of all necessary components a user has started to self-assembly of floor heating.

The nuances of self-assembly of floor heating

In one article it is impossible to tell about all the features underfloor heating installation, so focus on the key points. The first - floor heating pipes are laid in a concrete screed. If the greedy and buy cheap pipes, it is likely that after some time (do not consider the "shoals" installation) will flow system, and it will have to be repaired. This means the dismantling of floor finish and opening tie.

All components of the floor heating must be of good quality from well-established manufacturers.

As pipe or floor heating using metal and plastic, or a crosslinked polyethylene. Polypropylene can be used. Pipes for system reliability laid without joints in the screed (although manufacturers admit that by using special press-fitting) in one piece.

RomanXRoman (FORUMHOUSE User) :

For floor heating, I used plastic pipes with a diameter 1.6 cm. I used them to connect radiators. Altogether, according to calculations, it is necessary pipes 390 m.

A guide (prices for 2016), we present the basic costs of floor heating RomanXRoman:

• Manifold assembly and fittings - 30 thousand. rub.
• Floor heating pipe 2 to 200 m coils, a total of 400m - 20 thousand. rub.
• Extruded polystyrene - 33 thousand. rub.
• Materials for screeds - 29 thousand. rub.

Before laying Epps user to lay on the floor with waterproofing on the walls and overlaps between the blades.

Further Epps packed 5 cm thick in two layers.

Having defined the place for the installation of the collector, the user hanging radiators on the walls, laid them in the pipe "coat", putting them in Stroebe, cut in the insulation.

Epps to securely attach to the footing by means of plastic dowels for fungi heater 14 cm in length with a diameter of 1 cm.

An important caveat: screed floor heating is to be separated from the walls of the damper tape. It is necessary to compensate for thermal expansion.

RomanXRoman (FORUMHOUSE User) :

Price damper tape did not work for me, so I bought a polyethylene foam 1 cm thick and cut the roll without unwinding with a knife, as the sausage. The result was a band that I pristepleril to the walls, taking into account overlaps of stitches. Then cut off the excess.

Coupler reinforced mesh diameter of 4 mm and 10x10 cm cell.

For precise layout pipe in advance, before laying the grid, marker trajectories were drawn unwinding loops. The loops were obtained at 74, 66, 66, 65 and 62 meters. Total - 333 m.

An important caveat: floor heating loops circuits as possible should be approximately the same length.

When laying the floor heating pipes are fastened to the metal grid is based plastic ties 3.5 clamp 1 meter tube. On long straight stretches clamps consumption - 1 pc. by 1 meter.

Then the user has collected the collector, sealing compounds and flax paste. Experience has shown that such a connection will get a much more reliable than using a special thread.

An important stage - crimping the assembled compressor system before it will be filled with screed.

RomanXRoman (FORUMHOUSE User):

Pressurized to a pressure of 6 bar. From observations. Z Bar - no leaks. 4 bar - poteklo compound with ribbon fum. I rewound on linen. 5 bar - flowed compound with a thread and the tape again fum. I rewound on flax. It gradually came to 6 bar and all connections are rebuilt on linen.

This was followed by a preparatory stage for screed, which included:

Laying boards - "scaffold" in order not to go through the pipes.

Setting "Lighthouses", which was used as a guide for drywall.

Pouring concrete tie-samomesom

RomanXRoman (FORUMHOUSE User):

I raised the net just before pouring the concrete, placing it on the valve holders. The mixture is prevented in a concrete mixer, which called for two assistants. 1 person takes concrete to be placed, and Leveling. 2 other interfere mixture and wear it.

Experience has shown that such a "team" of 20 square fills one eight-hour working day. m is 8.5 cm thick floor. This is about 1.7 cubic meters. m of concrete. Mixer output user gives a mixture of 50 liters. Total: 1700 l / 50 l = 34 kneading. Kneading 34 x 15 minutes / 60 minutes = 8.5 hours.

Knowing these numbers, you can roughly calculate how much time it will take to fill the screed, and whether it really be done alone, or more profitable to hire help than "kill" himself.

An important caveat: for the preparation of concrete by using a plasticizer, which increases the mobility of the concrete with a decrease in the amount of water required for mixing the mixture. It also improves the workability and reduces cracking ties.

After the screed, pulling her rule, cleaning, removal of lighthouses embedding cutting grooves and care for her to get ready a warm floor and the base for laying the finishing coat.

Armed with the knowledge and experience already passed this way, you can make your own in a country house warm floor and thereby enhance the energy efficiency of the cottage, efficiency, and comfort level of autonomy residence.

The topic RomanXRoman you can learn all the details of self-laying floor heating. Also, be sure to check the section on FORUMHOUSE the system "warm floor".

Everyone interested in the topic of autonomy and heating advised to read the article, which tells about the basic principles of building an autonomous house, what warm baseboard heating system and how to make their own hands.

In our video scripts - energy-passive houseAs well as a complex system alternative heating country house.

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