The car in the country: a garage, carport or parking space?

Finally, the car needs a place to be able to wash it comfortably, without poisoning cucumber oil drains, or podremontirovat pereobut. For these purposes fit garages, sheds, lean-tos and dedicated platform. They all have their pros and cons. In order not to make mistakes, examine user experience FORUMHOUSE on the construction of various avtoukryty.

If you decide to equip the area a place for a car, start with a sober assessment of their needs and capabilities. Where the villa - a second home, can not do without a garage. In addition, this structure - multi-functional: in the garage, you can knead and work benches, and shelves, and a viewing hole. Only in the garage you will be able to equip a comfortable place for the repair of cars - to conduct heating, electricity, water. But it will cost dearly. To make serious spending, if you come a few times over the summer, there's no point - better think how to make a parking lot in the country with their own hands. Spoiler: in the opinion of our members of the forum, the best option would be crushed stone or concrete pad, preferably with a canopy. Yes, from thieves it will not save, but the machine will not leave the area picturesque track, especially in the spring.

Whatever you choose, there are general rules for the organization of car parking: it should be removed from the open fire (oven, fryer, grill, tandoor), located close to the move and drainage ditch.

How to make a parking lot for a car in the country with their own hands

Let's start with the easy - open parking. The simplest park in the country with their own hands - Playground, paved with gravel. And entered Validating Test Mazanoff (see photo).

This elegant solution has its advantages - saving time and money. If the site is not "wet", the water will quickly go through the bulk material, so that the machine does not have the mud puddle. However, there is a feature of rubble - the damp soft ground, he actively goes into the ground (up to 10 cm per year), so be prepared to buy more podsypku annually. If the site is not fenced border, the stone will be scattered over the site.

Philo (user FORUMHOUSE)

I look at his neighbor, he is every year cube, three rubble pours - and all in the abyss.

To rubble did not go into the soil, it is necessary to do the foundation, which will distribute the pressure over the entire area of ​​the selected area. For this, the site is removed topsoil - it can reach up to 60 cm, and then spreads geotextile - this material passes water but does not squander "cake." On top of the geotextile fray rubble - at least 10 cm. Experienced forum users are advised to choose the dolomite - he eventually grasped in a monolithic slab. Crushed compacted, stacked on top of the sand layer to 10 cm and also compacted. Mandatory spilling "pie" that he is well, "sat down".

Sand - Floor unreliable. It should be closed at least in order to not be on his feet in the house. Finish may be different - a layer of gravel, concrete, asphalt, paving slabs or cobblestones, both at the site forumchanin 1984Vlad.

1984 Vlad (party FORUMHOUSE)

That's the left stoyanochka 33 sq.m. From the edge of where the road, put the flat of a border - to arrange entry to the parking lot, there is a small mound was obtained.

Some users insist first on a geotextile is better to put sand layered tamper, then - gravel fractions 20-40, and on top - screenings. Validating VasiliyB and renounced the sand.

VasiliyB (party FORUMHOUSE)

On geotextile scattered granite chippings fractions 20-40 10-12 cm layer, by pouring a walked compactors. Next scattered chippings fractions 5-20 cm layer 5, walked with compactors by pouring. Next layer - sifting fractions 0-10, a layer of 5 cm, spilling, rammer.

It turned out:

If the soil is rich in clay, and close are ground water, on the geotextile is better not to save money - without gravel leaves in damp earth for a couple of years.

Choosing geotextiles, make sure that it is intended for road works. Similar in appearance material is used as a vapor barrier roofing and other construction work. He does not pass water and, if confused, you get the "bathroom" instead of a parking space.

What make a foundation under a truck in the country

If parking will call in trucks, it is better to choose a tile thickness of 6 cm. Three-centimeter can not withstand the pressure and cracked. But more reliable to put the formwork and pour concrete surface pre-coated steel grille (some resourceful Gameday used for this mesh backrest and old beds). Since parking will be higher than the earth, it makes sense to further reinforce the corners and edges. Large areas and will require cutting through thermojunction - otherwise the concrete will crack when temperature drops.

Observe bias to the dirt from the wheels and the water after bathing lorry not flowed to the area, and the drain and drainage ditch. If the site is "wet", the ground water are high, you will need to arrange a complete drainage system. How to do it, you can easily find in the the relevant section FORUMHOUSE.

Wintt (party FORUMHOUSE)

I decided for myself that the water must flow into the side of the gate and to the right (when viewed from the gate) - then arrange it with the discharge tray.

As a finishing coat to the car park you can use a special "cell" - a lawn or geogrid. The first is filled with soil, which is growing a lawn, in the second - the rubble.

Both designs are made to harden the surface, but the heavy machinery will stand only geogrid, backfilled with gravel

Fedotov(FORUMHOUSE Member)

Not spreading in the earth does not go away, the grass does not grow (last 2 years).

An important question - how to choose the rubble for the top layer of parking. Fraction 40/70 will help get rid of the effect of "leakage of rubble" under the wheels (front wheel drive cars when the burrow), but to work with a large fraction will need special equipment. The best option - to choose a more convenient rubble of fraction 20/40, but to sleep on top of dropouts.

DamaZky (privately owned FORUMHOUSE)

If the sand is under the rubble (see the rubble, not sand), the most simple - sifting the rubble. They fell asleep, leveled some water spilled all. Screenings eventually sets and keeps the surface. At the very wrong.

You do not want to pull out the weeds and rubble of dropouts - look at the asphalt granulate. To enhance the strength of some users recommend lightly sprinkle crumb used oil (look in small car repair) - then it will be a "rock." But do not overdo it, and then the surface is soft.

You can use different "nelivkvid" for the device uncovered - broken bricks instead of gravel, concrete fight, but the result will be unpredictable - somewhere in the parking stand for ten years, and in some cases - a year.

If the site has a significant slope, without concrete slab casting can not do. Save on concrete can be, if you pour the tape around the perimeter of the parking lot, resulting in the "box" to fill the earth, and already on top of it - the sand and everything else. So I did forumchanin Donsss:

Auto hide from the rain and sun will help awning or canopy of a sheet of polycarbonate. About nuances construction of mobile shelters read this topic.

Garages

Garage - building more solid than the ground of the car, so that requires a thorough approach - even when choosing a place. For the sake of saving space and money combined garage using common wall with the house or room. And then, and another solution is not a priori better: proximity to the bath is risky in terms of fire safety, and the entrance of the house to the garage threatens unpleasant odors in the house (oil, gasoline evaporation). If the garage is not insulated, the gates are not even a bridge, and the bridge of cold, through which the heat will leave in the winter. Ideally, the garage must be a separate building, but if you are designing it bundled with the house, immediately warming plan. Including, and gates.

Anyway, the project must be provided for the engineering systems: water supply (for mini-washing), drainage, ventilation, electricity, lighting, if necessary - alarm. For each of them you will find recommendations on FORUMHOUSE.

If you are designing a garage on the property border, do not forget "Red line" - in some areas for the construction of permanent facilities on the foundation is required to withdraw from the fence 2-5 meters, so as not to hurt the utilities. All the details - in your territorial administration.

Unogroup (party FORUMHOUSE)

I passed between the parts of the process water, and it seemed like all the laws I can build a 1 meter from the property line, but in fact I gave architect limit by 3 meters.

Counting the size of the garage, look to the future. If you increase the open area is easy, from the garage this will not work. Cars, on average, are getting longer, so it is better to lay at least 5.5 meters below the same machine. Plus 50 cm from each edge to enter without wiping wall. Consider features of the body - to open the back door at the wagon, will need about 70 cm. Finally, decide right away which side will be racks for tools and places for hozinventarya - reflect this in the draft. The optimal length of the garage, not combined with a workshop - 7m.

The width of the garage is calculated as follows: 3 meters per car plus meter "to comfort" - to be able to vacuum the car with the doors open, easy to squeeze with bags.

Counting the opening under the gate, note that from the goalposts to the corner should be at least 50 cm to the wall, then the design will be more reliable. Above the gate it makes sense to lay the beam cross-section, calculated on the weight of the gate. The height of the opening depends on the height of the machine. For an ordinary sedan enough 2.2-2.4 m, and for an SUV (average wheel plus boot) - not less than 2.7 m.

madman_zhuk (party FORUMHOUSE)

It is better to make the two gates: one large and a second smaller one, and then suddenly want to buy a minivan. Plus, in case of breakage of one second and release to waste.

The width of the gates should be chosen based on the features of arrival. So, at the entrance of the gate perpendicular to the plane of the opening should be wider than 0.7m cars and 1 m - if you have to stop off at an angle.

Selecting summer resort under the garage and to determine its size, think about the material for the walls - depends on many design features of the building. The range is wide, the walls can be made of the following materials: brick, slag, foaming, gas, and pesko- expanded clay blocks, as well as different variations on a metal or wooden frame - metal profile, SIP-panel plywood, OSB-boards.

So, forumchanin MBogdanov I chose the brick façade of the garage for the layer, as it had to match the exterior of the house. For a second, inner layer of the master thought to choose a cheaper and more convenient to laying claydite. But facing brick - the material Robust finishing. Having estimated the cost of plastering and painting work with blocks, forumchanin concluded that both variants are comparable in cost and decided to build a wall in two facing brick. An excellent solution for warm capital of the garage!

Sand concrete and lightweight aggregate blocks are cheaper than others, but they suggest external and internal finishes, since they have a geometry problem. Silicate, aerocrete foamed and smoother, but more expensive. Benefits must be regarded as already the last finish.

Heated garage makes sense to do, if you constantly live outside the city. Otherwise it is better to choose a cold (for the summer) or warmed (with the ability to quickly warm up with a heat gun) option.

DENdi (FORUMHOUSE Member)

If rarely sink, it is possible a bourgeois - we are catching up with his father in a non-insulated garage to +20. If you constantly need a heating system. Here in GSK men, remodelers, made water-heating stoves of the same, filled with antifreeze. On the morning of less than 10 is not the case in non-insulated garage.

Make a "warm" garage can be made of any material, the only question in insulation technology. However, concrete priori warmer peskobloka and foam block is warming faster than the cinder block. Insulate garage, remember that most of the heat is lost through doors and ventilation. can not abandon them, but warm - it is possible.

Usually experienced builders are advised to opt for the garage material which is cheaper in your area (especially production, delivery). The main thing - do not forget about the general rules of construction: foundation must withstand the load from the walls and the roof, the roof should not delay the snow wall stiffness should be sufficient for wind and other loads. All necessary engineering calculations.

Frame technology is less reliable in terms of fire safety and protection from thieves. But karkasniki have a lot of other advantages: build is faster, cheaper, can cope alone.

Mitrich1978 (FORUMHOUSE Member)

I will share their crafts. The frame of the board 50h150 within OSB outside - siding without insulation, foundation melkozaglublenny inside - a concrete slab 10 cm.

To protect the structure against fire can be using noncombustible materials: a metal frame and a profile cladding made of cement particle board, gypsum board or flat slate. The walls usually insulated with foam plastic, mineral or ecowool.

If you are not going to insulate the garage, on the inside of the casing and can be saved, although this you break fire regulations, and a bunch of extra frame will not hurt.

keyman (party FORUMHOUSE)

Warming will not allow the summer to create a steam room in the garage. I now stand the heat worse than the cold.

Alas, the burglar in a funny frame structures, so leave the car in a garage is not necessary for a long time. But in this case, the blocks do not always help - the same foam sawed ordinary hacksaw. But full-bodied lightweight aggregate blocks - the material stronger. Especially if their oblitsevat brick.

The carcass of the garage SIP panels It is able to heat much faster than brick or block. The panels do not need grout, enough to close their clapboard. Finally, this technology involves a lightweight foundation - and this is a decent savings.

stepanstroy (party FORUMHOUSE)

I have a neighbor in the garage area made of foam blocks - went cracks, ie the foundation under them need a more thorough. And here - filled screed about 15 cm on the grid, was tied around the perimeter, put the panel, and let the floats along the walls.

The foundation for the garage is very important. On it lies the weight of not only the walls, rafters and roof, but also the car. Theoretically, for these purposes are suitable all types of foundation - pile, strip and slab, but the garage on stilts - it's almost exotic, if the site is more or less smooth and dry. Solid floor - the most reliable option, especially because once you get and the floor. In a small space will be slightly higher than the cost of the garage on it than on strip foundations. But it requires a precise calculation. ABOUT the pros and cons of various foundations read this section.

fogel (party FORUMHOUSE)

I have a garage, while in the process of completion. Foundation - ribbon. I did would now be pouring the slab immediately and collected from SIPs panels, fewer difficulties, more than the result.

The basis for a garage reminds framework for an open parking lot: gravel-sand and concrete screed cushion 10-20 cm, reinforced mesh. However, there are nuances. Thus, the foundation of the garage it is necessary to insulate. Blind area of ​​foam to protect it from freezing soil. Cap garage is better to make of brick.

If the site is flooded in the spring or ground water very close to the surface, you'll need a system of drainage pipes and drainage well. Do not forget about the drain trap, if you wash your car in the garage.

Ventilation in the garage reserved. The diameter of the draft tube depends on the floor space, they are taken to the roof or upper wall. Blowing openings are arranged below - at the gates or near them. In winter, the air intake is reduced, so as not to vystudit room.

For courtesy light is recommended to choose fluorescent lamps. Halogen or LED lighting suitable for the entrance area to the garage.

keyman (party FORUMHOUSE)

Two council. Do not place lamps on the entrance axis, they must cover the territory, and not shine in your eyes. Use more than one lamp, placing them against each other, this will avoid the shadows.

Unsupported spans of the garage, especially the frame, usually do not leave the choice of the regeneration of the truss system - only farm. Narrow garage can be covered with wooden beams. If the garage is longer than 6 m, and the channel will need. Reinforced concrete floor slab is captivating for its tactical and technical characteristics, but is not for everyone garages, because too heavy. Cheapest roof - lean-to with a slight slope, but the gable allows literate "scatter" snow load and build attic. Do not forget about the reinforcing belt, it is necessary, even if it is assumed mauerlat.

If the garage is not heated, it is simple enough "pie" - lathing, OSB plates, shingles (slate, profile). If heated, so even with a loft exploited - then a complete "stuffing" with insulation, vapor barrier, air ducts, etc.

One of the major mistakes in the construction of a garage - thin walls and lack of reinforcements.

Oleg 61 (party FORUMHOUSE)

Before winter neighbor built a garage for two cars of foam blocks 150 mm wide, in the summer I wanted to impose in a half-brick. March 16 in Rostov-on-Don was a strong wind, and a garage collapsed.

In this case, the 8-meter wall height greater than two meters was chosen clearly insufficient width of the block. Under the roof there armpoyasa, in the ranks - fittings or masonry grid.

Alex Tai (FORUMHOUSE Member)

Instead the roof was formed bowl in which were swimming 50 m2 of snow is 5-10 tons. The walls of some miracle did not work inside. The reason - poor quality rafters, many large knots. By the size of the load had to keep, but bitches ...

And others

An alternative to the garage - a stationary awning. It is not just a car park, a real multi-purpose building. Retraction forumchanin chosen so constructed:

withdrawal (party FORUMHOUSE)

I stop two cars. You can drive onboard gazelle. You can dry the board. for krupnogabarita warehouse. Flick of the wrist, he turns into a summer kitchen. In the autumn canopy zashilsya Bent from the southern winds. Winter hanging shade driving rain and snow.

Validating Roracotta I set on the canopy 8 columns of 30 cm diameter. Columns are shipped to 120cm in depth. Here are stored boats, machinery, tractor:

User chichic I prefer to do a full hangar.

Chichic (party FORUMHOUSE)

the garage was no need for my tasks. Permanent workshop was not going there to organize. The task was to hide the equipment from rain and snow, the passenger car parking, storage of materials and things.

Hangar converted arches made of greenhouses and galvanized profiled sheet. These arches were designed to keep the glass, therefore, have a special strength. Arches made under polycarbonate, are not suitable for the hangar. Frame - of reinforcement, filled with concrete.

The easiest option under the arrangement of parking cars - clean car under the awning. Manufacturers even call these tents' garage awning. "

AndreyDacha (party FORUMHOUSE)

Garage in box, collected for three hours, the size of 4x6, height 3.7... Included - 75 cm anchor 4 pcs. and 4 bought in addition, a total of 8 anchors sit tight enough.

Another mobile variant - known to all shell garage and garage-case with no bottom. There is even a garage on the basis of the caravan - formally it is, that is zaregstrirovan the vehicle.

This section FORUMHOUSE read as build garage in all conditions. Read and nuances frame construction. read on shed with pent roof and freestanding Sheds for cars. In this topic, discussing the organization of the forum users Car Parking. Watch a video about garage doors.