Proper Pie framing walls

Warm, comfortable, modern: it all - frame house. But karkasnik it is so provided that it is built by all the rules. Particular attention should be paid to the correct pie framing wall. About how it should be, users forumhouse.ru reason in this topic.

We list the main mistakes that some admit when constructing walls karkasnika:

• not take into account the possibility of the dew point;
• not mounted vapor barrier;
• establish a vapor barrier on both sides of a heater;
• no glued joints of the vapor barrier;
• Do not mount the windshield or set it under the slab covering.

How to avoid them? The answer is - to use reliable and proven over the years the scheme cake framing wall.

Neglect of a vapor barrier and windscreen

Many novice developers do not think about what processes can occur within the framework of the wall. Often insulation starts to become wet, and the frame rack covered with mold and rot. This is due to the fact that it is not set, steam, and windscreen, or a sequence of layers of broken walls of the pie.

Classic cake framing wall (inside - outside) are:

1. Plasterboard - as a base layer for the interior finishes.

2. Vapor barrier.

3. Insulation (mineral wool).

4. CAP.

5. Windscreen.

6. The external decoration, e.g., siding with an air gap in kontrobreshotke.

The wall framing each element performs a strictly defined function.

Denis Reznichenko(Member FORUMHOUSE) :

- Vapor is placed inside, as it restricts the entry of moisture into the walls. Gidrovetrozaschita always placed outside, because it prevents insulation blowing wind, protects it from rain and allows excess moisture to escape to the outside.

To understand the need for high-quality vapor barrier is necessary to understand the term "dew point."

The dew point - a state, in which, under the action of low temperature, water vapor contained in the air begins to condense, forming water droplets.

dew point depends on the appearance:

• temperature (indoor and outdoor);
• relative humidity (inside and outside).

The higher the relative humidity, the higher the temperature of the dew point of occurrence.

When moisture condensation inside the wall following occurs:

• insulation gets wet and loses its insulating properties;
• wall begins to freeze;
• frame board covered with mold and rot.

Incorrectly assembled steam

The most common mistake in the construction karkasnika - mounted vapor barrier is wrong. Because of this, the moisture easily passes into the insulation.

Roracotta (Member FORUMHOUSE):

- The easiest and cheapest way - to be used as a vapor barrier usual high density polyethylene, not less than 200 microns.

Install a vapor barrier can be in three steps:

1. Polyethylene is installed with overlaps between the rolls, about 15 centimeters on each side.

2. Polyethylene beating stapler on the uprights with a pitch between the clamps of 30-40 cm.

3. All joints are glued carefully glue based on bitumen resin. If the joints are not overlap, then they should be a special glue adhesive tape.

The vapor barrier can be used as a foil insulating. Such a vapor barrier, due to the foil layer, prevents a couple penetrate the insulation. All joints are glued butyl tape.

Classic cake framing wall cladding assumes power plant - OSB outside the house. In addition to such a circuit is used and the other - the so-called "inside" frame, with the power casing inside. Why is this done?

Since OSB maloparopronitsaema, it is believed that the classical scheme violates the main principle of the framing wall - water vapor permeability of the materials should be increased from the inside - out.

Dmitriy1000 (Member FORUMHOUSE):

- In my opinion, even if I make an internal vapor barrier, in the insulation still falls the dew, because inside the house there is a vapor barrier, and the outside - NDE, and moisture trapped in insulation, nowhere out.

Is it really?

Paulspb(Member FORUMHOUSE) :

- Total generation of water vapor in the home area of ​​120 sq. m, with a family of three people will be - 6320 g / day. If the height of the ceiling floor house 2.8 m in volume of the house is approximately 336 m3, the number of "generated" moisture, i.e. remaining in the air after airing amount - 2670 g, or 7.95 g / m3.

Now imagine that the street winter and -10. At 100% humidity in the air contained 2.37 g / m3 water. Moisture inside the house much more about - 10.32 g / m3. This leads to the movement of vapor from inside to outside through the enclosing wall structure.

Paulspb(Member FORUMHOUSE) :

- The steam will escape through the walls and ceilings, whose total area is about 240 sq.m.

In this case, through the surface of 1 square meter per day should pass 10.9 g of water.

OSB panels of 20 mm thickness per day passes through one 5.39 g of p m. Plate 12 mm - 8.98 g of p, 10 mm - 10.8 g

Thick OSB 9 - 12 mm has a small water vapor permeability. OSB thickness of 18 mm and above - practically vapor permeability.

Since the outer walls most sheathe OSB 9 or 12 mm, in any case moisture will gradually escape to the outside.

Breathing walls?

You can often hear the expression "breathing" frame walls, that is, walls that overlook the pairs in both directions and controlled air exchange in the room.

A user with the nickname Vitla offers a pie "breathing" walls (inside - out):

1. Plasterboard.

2. CAP.

3. Teploizolyatsiyayu

4. Vetrovlagozaschita.

5. Ventzazor.

6. Exterior finish.

Vitla (Member FORUMHOUSE) :

- Power trim must be fixed from inside the house. For this purpose, suitable: OSB, plywood, fiberboard or decking. GCR is taken from the premises excess moisture and gives it back when needed. That is, such a wall is obtained by "breathing", which is important for a comfortable stay in the house.

Does the right to life of such a scheme?

Ppvlad(Member FORUMHOUSE) :

- There is no "breathing" of the walls. My advice - do the standard carcass assembly and reliable vapor barrier.

Roracotta(Member FORUMHOUSE) :

- Any karkasniku need reliable steam.

Air exchange in karkasnike provide ventilation, but not "breathing" walls!

In addition, the power of OSB sheathing installed inside without additional vapor barrier, vapor passes.

Because SIR is mounted with a slight clearance between the sheets (3-5 mm), then no additional vapor barriers through the gap moisture saturation vapor goes to a heater.

When installing CAP difficult to insulate the inside wall of the open in the rain or in winter. In addition, a plate installed outside, additionally connects the overlap of the first and second floor, the frame strut and acts as a strength member.

Prefab wall - Western approach

Roracotta(Member FORUMHOUSE) :

- In Canada lay in cotton fiberglass insulation wall thickness greater than 150 mm unprofitable.

Do so: mineral wool deposited in a thickness of 15 cm, and the outside wall on OSB attached foam thickness 50 - 100 mm.

Thus completely eliminated cold bridges, and obtained very warm wall.

Silent(Member FORUMHOUSE) :

- With this special drainage insulation membrane is placed between the CAP and the foam.

It is not necessary as an additional external insulation to use extruded polystyrene. Due to virtually zero water vapor Epps locks moisture inside the wall. This can lead to the dew point on the inside of the heater.

In the Nordic countries a different approach, and the walls of the pie (outside - inside) is as follows:

1. Front GCR or windproof film.

2. frame racks filled with insulation.

3. Paroizolyatsiyayu

4. GKL of the crate.

Neither OSB or plywood sheathing frame as a power in such a wall is not used, and all communications carried out in the air gap between the plasterboard and a vapor barrier.

Porcupine(Member FORUMHOUSE) :

- basic insulation in Finland - basalt wool. Vapor barrier is placed always! Commonly used conventional polyethylene film.

The inner wall lining in karkasnike vapor permeable must be less than the outer.

Summarizing, we can say that a key element of the right wall karkasnika - a quality vapor barrier

All the information collected to the dispensation of the carcass in this section. Crib available Novice karkasostroitelya this link. How firms actually build karkasniki in the suburbs? The answer to this question will find in this topic. Scandinavian karkasniki: what, how, and why - is available and clearly here.

A video about the construction karkasnika on Scandinavian technology, see here, and here. BUT This Video talks about the "right" karkasnike with the second light.