Forget mold. The silicone seam between the wall and the bathtub will not turn black if you follow 4 simple rules

It seems to me that people have already come to terms with the appearance of mold at the joints of the wall and bath. They are periodically treated with whiteness or bleach. Every five years, they embroider and silicone again. There are people for whom silicone has become a taboo: "cover the seam with anything but silicone." As if the problem is in him.

I was lucky. About five years ago I ran into a very wise tiler. He detailed the possible causes of the problem. Taught how to properly handle silicone. I am sure that if you follow all the rules, mold will never appear.

The cause of mold

A soapy film, fat deposits, dirt, etc. are deposited on the surface. It's like a mushroom buffet. As soon as excess moisture is added to all this, mold appears on the seams. Let's take a closer look at how to get rid of all negative factors.

Maintaining normal humidity

Friends, I understand that you have already heard this a hundred times. But does everyone do what they know in theory? I think it will not be superfluous if I repeat the common truths:

• Have washed - with a sponge rubbed the top of the bath along the contour.
• The door was left open for half an hour or an hour. Only in this way can the room be ventilated - an exhaust hood and air supply are needed.
• If natural ventilation does not work well, turn on the forced fan.

Do not remove the heated towel rail from the bathroom. I know there are many questions about their tightness. But without them, the temperature difference between the room and the outside becomes less, which is very important for the operation of natural ventilation. And how not to flood the neighbors, I already wrote here and here.

Choosing the right material

There are an incredible number of sealants on the market right now. They can be silicone, acrylic, polyurethane, etc. The main thing is that “sanitary” is written on the tuba.

In practice, silicone sanitary sealant is most often used. It contains special additives that can suppress the fungus at least a little.

We form the seam correctly

Here lies the very insidious problem of mold. There are two seam profiles: beveled and semicircular.

Under mechanical action, the semicircular immediately loses its shape. It is enough to rub the seam with a sponge, its edges move away from the surface and begin to "shaggy". Grease, dirt and moisture get into the gap between the wall and the silicone. You won't be able to completely remove them. In this case, the appearance of blackness is only a matter of time. But the beveled seam adheres securely to surfaces.

By the way, even manufacturers of silicone leveling spatulas are aware of this problem. Look at the photo. All but one beveled edge. But the semicircular profile is not intended to form a seam. They remove excess silicone at the seams between the tiles.

I understand that many craftsmen use a universal finger spatula. But the question is serious. Instead of spreading with your finger, it is best to use a normal trowel.

Surface preparation

Before applying silicone, the surface of the wall and bathtub must be washed and degreased. Due to poor adhesion, the material does not fit tightly. The gap serves as a breeding ground for infection.

In my own cast-iron bathtub and tiles, I first wiped it with white spirit. I am afraid to advise specific solutions for different types of acrylics and enamels. If you know a universal degreaser for all types of surfaces, write in the comments. I am sure it will be useful to other readers.

SUBSCRIBE | GROUP IN VK