How I protect my Cabbage from Fleas and get healthy Heads of Cabbage for 3 years in a row
Probably every gardener was faced with a misfortune called a cruciferous flea. At the dawn of my summer cottage activity, my cabbage also suffered the same fate.
No sooner had the cabbage tied into a head of cabbage, when I noticed leaves perforated by insects. Then the leaves turned yellow, dried out, as a result, the entire cabbage seedling died.
There is a whole arsenal of tools to combat this pest. For myself, I have identified these methods, and I use them every year.
1. I plant fennel and coriander around the perimeter of the cabbage patch. These crops have a rich aroma that repels harmful flea beetles. You can also plant wormwood, but somehow I don't really want to sow a plot with this weeds.
2. To combat the flea, I use tomato tops, which remain from the pinching of tomatoes. I chop the tomato greens and add each cabbage bush with this mass. The flea does not like the smell of tomato tops, plus the solanine contained in it is harmful to pests.
Thanks to this method, moisture remains in the soil longer, and rotten tomato tops will be a good fertilizer.
3. If a cruciferous flea, despite all the tricks, broke into my area, then I treat the cabbage with a solution of dandelions with tar soap.
Dandelions, and leaves, and roots, I grind into gruel. I fill it all with warm water, and leave it for a couple of hours. Then I filter it, add tar soap to this infusion.
I spray cabbage seedlings with this liquid. If there is no tar soap, then a flea shampoo for animals is suitable.
4. A mixture of mustard, tobacco and ground pepper also works well. You need to take about 100 grams of mustard powder, a tablespoon of tobacco dust and a teaspoon of red and black ground pepper.
Mix all this and sprinkle the cabbage seedlings with the dry mixture. Also, this composition is great for fighting aphids.
5. In the fall, after harvesting, we carefully remove cabbage roots and spoiled cabbage leaves from the beds, and also be sure to dig up the bed where the cabbage grew.
All insect pests that remain in the upper balls of the soil will freeze out in winter. And those pests that managed to overwinter will simply have nothing to eat in the first spring days.
I also try not to plant cabbage in the same place every year.
Using these simple methods, I have been harvesting an excellent cabbage crop for the 3rd year in a row. And you don't need to use any chemistry!