I prepare berries for wintering, as my grandfather taught me - and then I don't know any problems with the harvest

My grandparents have lived in the village all their lives. Grandfather was a great amateur gardener. What we just didn’t grow on the site, and persimmon, and pomegranates, and pears, and plums, apples and apricots, peaches, there was even a small greenhouse with lemons.

He knew how to take care of plants and loved to do it. Something did not take root in the neighbors, but my grandfather grew by leaps and bounds.

I learned a lot from him, my grandfather is gone, but I always use his method to prepare berry bushes for winter.

Autumn is a good time for planting and transplanting, dividing and breeding berries. Until the cold comes, they manage to take root, and in the spring they actively start to grow.

Main autumn events:

• Cropping

• Weeding

• Planting and transplanting seedlings

• Fertilization

• Pest control

• Shelter for the winter

They start by picking up weeds, fallen leaves, and other debris.

On currant cut out dry and old branches, poorly located, too thin. At the same time, you must try not to leave stumps, they will attract pests. Don't leave this job for the spring. Currant pruning is carried out not only to form a bush, but also to rejuvenate it.

The largest and most juicy berries grow on biennial shoots. Therefore, it is impractical to leave a lot of old branches, the harvest for them will be smaller and smaller every year. Ideally, 3-4 strong young shoots should be left every year.

Branches with signs of disease must be cut out completely. Taking pity on one branch, there is a risk of losing the entire bush. The soil under the bushes is dug up and leveled with a rake.

Fertilizers are introduced - double superphosphate and potassium sulfate in 1-3 tbsp. spoons depending on the size of the bush. To do this, we loosen the soil under the bushes and cover it with compost or humus. This pillow will keep you dry and warm in winter.

In September, you can easily propagate currants by cuttings. Ripe shoots of this year are selected with a thickness of about a pencil and a length of 20-25 cm. We stick it into the ground at an angle of 45 ° to the upper bud and water it.

On the bushes gooseberry weak, thin shoots are cut. Branches directed into the bush are removed to avoid shading the bush. Leave, depending on the age of the bush, 5-7 strong branches, which are cut off by a third in the fall.

Each year, these branches need to be gradually renewed in order to maintain the yield of the bush. The main crop is concentrated on shoots 3-6 years old. There is no point in leaving older ones.

The ground under gooseberry we loosen or dig up, while adding fertilizer. Two glasses of ash and 20-30g of superphosphate for one bush will be enough. For currants and gooseberries in the fall, they are treated with copper sulfate.

Honeysuckle forms the bushes itself, but you should still inspect it for sanitary pruning. You can trim the bottom shoots that touch the ground. The transplant is carried out only in the fall, because in the spring it starts growing very early. It is not necessary to shelter for the winter, it is very frost-resistant.

Yoshta (this is a mixture of currants and gooseberries) does not need autumn pruning, it is carried out in the spring. In the fall, you can carry out a sanitary cutting of branches.

In the raspberry with summer raspberries, cut out the shoots that have borne this year, being careful not to leave stumps on which the raspberry moth can settle.

They are easily identified by their brown bark. Shoots of this season are shortened. The strongest branches are left, usually 5-6 per 1 m3. Do not leave two shoots growing together, they will not have enough light and nutrition, and the berries will grow small.

Repairing raspberriescan be cut for the winter in two ways. At the first, the entire aboveground part is cut off for the winter.

In the second method of growing, to obtain a double harvest per season, a few better shoots are left. To obtain large, beautiful berries, you can leave no more than 7-8 shoots per 1m3. Selected branches are treated with iron sulfate.

The ground under raspberriesdo not dig in order not to damage the root system. It is better to loosen it with a hoe or flat cutter, apply mineral fertilizers for raspberries and mulch with a layer of compost or peat.

For the winter, branches need to be collected in small bunches, bent to the ground and insulated. In the fall, you can plant new varieties and start dividing old bushes.

Ezhemalina will bear fruit the next season on the shoots that have grown this season. The branches are removed from the trellis, bent to the ground, fixed, covered with covering material.

Blueberries for the winter they mulch with coniferous litter to protect the roots from frost, watered abundantly.

Timely application of autumn fertilizers will help the branches to ripen, and they will winter better.