About sharpening the tool. The wood sculptor tells
Greetings.
Shortly before the New Year holidays, I met talented sculptors - a married couple Anton and Katerina Naymushin. They organized their workshop with this soulful name: "Forest in my soul".
Their work reflects this name very well. And this is especially evident in the carved decorations in the photo below.
Correspondence ensued In the correspondence, I asked Anton to talk about sharpening a carving tool and recently he sent me a letter in which he told what tools and devices he uses to sharpen his incisors.
Sharpening.
"Greetings to all those who are not indifferent to the tree!
Today I would like to briefly describe to you the process of sharpening a woodcarving tool. For high-quality sharpening and dressing of the instrument, you can, of course, use the right hands, years of meditative training for sharpening by hand on water stones, but I prefer a different way.
The sharpening machine of the Swedish manufacturer Tormek, together with the correct equipment (even if it is homemade), greatly simplifies the task and speeds up the work speed.
The main advantage of this type of machine is that it is impossible to overheat the working edge of the cutting tool on it, the revolutions of the machine are not exceed 120 per minute (in contrast to conventional sharpening machines with a revolution of about 3000 per minute), and when used correctly with 220 and 4000 grit - we get an excellent working surface of the cutting edge, which will allow us to work with our hands, without effort and frantic blows with a beater ( mallet). This circumstance plays a very important role for me.
Nevertheless, the machine of this type also has a disadvantage, which dialectically stems from its advantage - low speed. It can only be used to finish the cutting edge. Large metal removal with a hardness of more than 59 HRC will take a very, very long time ...
Start sharpening on a rough 220 grit stone.
The main task is to set the tool at a certain angle from 20 to 30 degrees (range of cutting tool angles).
The sharper the angle, the sharper the chisel will be, but this sharpening is not long enough, the fragility of the cutting edge increases. If the angle is closer to 30 degrees, then such a sharpening lasts longer, but the sharpness decreases, due to this, the maneuverability of the chisel also decreases, and this is very important when cutting out miniatures and thin parts.
30 degrees sharpen the chisel to chisel.
You can measure the angle of the cutting edge of the tool with a protractor
Next comes sharpening on small stones 1000 and 4000 grit. They give the best edge quality due to the smoothness, but it removes a minimum of metal and is only necessary for finishing the cutting edge.
Further polishing on leather with oil and honing paste. The oil must be of high purity, transparent.
Polishing gives a micro-rounding of the cutting edge, it remains very sharp, but such small micro-rounds increase its service life, reducing the chipping of the cutting edge.
Incomplete composition of my chisels, which I often use: semicircular, flat, corner (Vtool), graver.
Tormek T-4 machine with 4000 grit stone and leather wheels for polishing the cutting edge. Polishing on leather with honing paste and high purity oil gives micro-rounding of the cutting edge of the tool, which increases wear resistance. Therefore, it will be possible to cut more)
relative to the shaft. Completely eliminates beating.
the required angle and is corrected by moving left and right.
Tormek employees wrote to me that they are thinking about such a device, but have not yet implemented it. Stay sharpen, they said, which is what I wish for you.
Sculptor Anton Naymushin "
Workshop works can be seen at Instagram page and on Fair of masters .
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All health and optimism!
Sincerely, Alexander.