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How to make a grinding attachment for a drill or engraver

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Finished grinding attachment.
Finished grinding attachment.

The work always lacks some kind of tool. This time I decided to do it myself drum sander the most simple design. Before that, I had already done a grinding drill anchor, but it is only suitable for a drill.

The goal was to make tool with replaceable sandpaper for drill and engraver and without the subsequent use of glue in the work, which complicates everything, since then every time the sandpaper is replaced, it would have to be re-glued.

We select a suitable crown and rail.
We select a suitable crown and rail.

In the manufacturing work, it took crown for wood small diameter. I picked up a wooden lath in thickness for the height of the crown, from which I later cut a blank for a drum. With a larger crown and a blank for the nozzle, naturally, it would have turned out to be larger in diameter.

I took a long screw with a diameter of 5 mm as an axis for the nozzle. I picked up a nut and a pair of washers to fix the drum on both sides. If you make an attachment for an engraver, then the screw for the axis must be selected up to 3 mm thick, or then grind its edge to this thickness so that it fits into the grower's collet.
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On the cut drum, you first need to find and mark the center on both sides. How to do it simply, you can see in the video below.

We mark the center on the drum and then drill a hole.

To drill a through hole in the drum, a slightly smaller diameter drill was required than the selected screw. The screw was not even threaded, but screwed through the drum with light effort. In this case, there will definitely be no backlash.

And in order to avoid radial backlash, the hole in the workpiece for the drum must be drilled as accurately as possible in the center. To avoid skewing, you can do this little by little on both sides.

When the hole was already ready, the screw was installed in place and the nut tightened well, checked in the drill how much exactly the drill hit the center of the drum by inserting the workpiece with the screw into the drill chuck.

I make a longitudinal cut with an engraver.
As I was convinced that everything was fine, I sanded the drum a little with sandpaper. On occasion, a slight backlash can be removed this way.

It was also necessary to make a cross cut on a drum with a depth of 7-8 mm. With a small diameter drum with a cutting depth, it is important not to overdo it, so that after it does not fly in half.

The cut can be made with a thin hand file for metal or wood. I made it with an engraver. Sandpaper folded in half should freely enter the cut.

I fix the sandpaper with a splinter.

Along the very bottom of the cut, I additionally walked with a drill, slightly expanding it along the entire length (see. video). This is done so that the sandpaper can be securely fixed with some kind of sliver, as shown in the photo above. The edges of the chips are cut with a knife. When replacing the sandpaper, remove the chip and insert a new one.

Ready-to-use prefabricated nozzle with replaceable sandpaper.

The finished grinding attachment turned out to be quite convenient and functional. If the sandpaper is fixed tightly and correctly, then there will be no beating. The joint during work is also not felt. The result is pleasing.

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