How to lubricate the lock so that it does not freeze: an emergency opening specialist shares his experience

For prophylaxis, every fall I grease the padlock on the garage with graphite. I rub the lead of a simple pencil with fine sandpaper and pour this powder into the lock cylinder. Many guys in the garage cooperative simply fill the locks with a vadashka.

This season did not start well for my neighbor. In the evening, pouring rain. Freezing night. In the morning, the castle was no longer open. Prophylaxis with WD-40 did not help. They spilled it again with a wadding bag - to no avail. In order not to break the gate, I had to call a specialist for emergency opening. I asked a specialist how it is better to lubricate the locks for prophylaxis. Nobody expected such an answer ...

How to lubricate the lock so that it does not freeze

I will not inflate the intrigue. The master's answer was short and unexpected: "lubrication only hurts modern locks - you don't need to lubricate them with anything."

If you read the instructions for modern locks, many manufacturers themselves write "the mechanism does not need lubrication." Sometimes they even leave a note in the warranty card that if grease is found, the product will be removed from the warranty.

Whatever the lubricant, dust and dirt particles adhere to it. And the modern locking mechanism is made with an accuracy of hundredths of a millimeter (even Chinese). A thick, sticky abrasive mass formed internally wedges the mechanism. In lever locks, the code plates can stick together from grease - you simply cannot turn the key.

You can lubricate some self-made or old Soviet lock, where the tolerances of landings can be a millimeter, or even more. To do this, it is better to use a lubricant that does not freeze at low temperatures, such as silicone.

How to keep the castle from freezing

Not all locks are designed for outdoor use. If you buy a lock, pay attention to its purpose. And to protect it from freezing, follow two simple rules:

• Clean the mechanism in a timely manner. Ideally, rinse the lock in kerosene and dry before the winter season.
• Protect the mechanism from moisture. The methods can be very different. Starting from a piece of linoleum above the padlock, ending with a sealed steel casing on the wicket lock.

What to do if the lock is frozen and won't open

Despite all our efforts, moisture can get into the castle and it will be "caught" by the frost. For example, slanting rain has passed, high humidity has risen during a thaw, condensation has appeared due to temperature differences, etc.

You can defrost the lock by heating it (or the key) with an ordinary gas lighter. The familiar WD-40 liquid copes well with this task, but there are two nuances with it:

1. The Vedashka has many analogues. It is better to use those where there is no oil, lithol and other lubricating additives in the composition. We just need "carbonated kerosene", which is essentially the original vadashka.
2. After using the wedge, it is better to blow the lock thoroughly with compressed air. WD-40 is quite hygroscopic and can pull moisture into the mechanism, which will then freeze again.

Some bad advice =)

If you go to the garage only in the summer, lubricate the mechanism with grease for the winter, but fatter. No thief can pick your lock. When the grease freezes after the onset of cold weather, the key will flatly refuse to turn. And if you spice everything up with a handful of sand or dust, it is useless to even try to insert a key into the larva.

Those who like to use improvised home remedies can grease the castle with sunflower oil. Lever type locks are especially fond of this seasoning. Even in summer, the code plates stick together so famously... not every glue will be able to show such a result.

Friends, I didn't have someone to preach. I myself was surprised that the locks do not need lubrication. I think the advice from an emergency opener was very helpful. If you can share your experience, I'm waiting for you in the comments.