How to protect aerated concrete walls on the external environment

Battles around the concrete blocks between their fans and ardent opponents do not stop for decades, and is unlikely ever to win one of the parties. This material mass of beneficial properties such as low thermal conductivity, good geometry, ease of handling, environmental and fire resistance. These and other parameters, and attract private developers, but there are characteristics rather with a minus sign. For example, the need for facade decoration, a large mass of high density blocks, and also increased hygroscopicity and consequent deterioration of frost, which must be considered. Most copies of it around the broken blocks the ability to absorb moisture, which leads to the thermal conductivity of the rise and fall frost. With the help of specialists PROSEPT try to figure out how to protect aerated from the negative influence of external factors.

Features concrete blocks and their exploitation

Aerated concrete - a type of cellular concrete, characterized by a porous structure, it is characterized by not only high water vapor permeability, but high moisture saturation. And if the first property belongs to the merits of the material, as-built and decorated houses in compliance with technology will be a healthy environment, the second is considered a disadvantage.

Because of this structure blocks over other masonry materials such as the group, and other species, are saturated with moisture. And the smaller the density of the block, the more this process. Regardless of the brand units is difficult to imagine the real situation, when the house is completely immersed in water and soaked. But the long rains, watering the wall even with large overhangs, for some regions - the norm. Therefore, how critical effect precipitation depends on the parameters of concrete blocks and the operating conditions.

Ideally, in the process of building the house contour must be closed before the start of the cold season, at least, has rough roof should protect the wall. Also blocks all manufacturers recommend to protect the wall or on a system of ventilated facades or decorative plasters or tile / stone or in some other way, depending on the selected style and budget. But in practice, so it turns out not always - prospective homeowners are missing any time, or money, and more and that, and another, and between building and facade work can be a great interval. That's when people are FORUMHOUSE questions arise - what to do with the unfinished?

Sergey-Spb (Members FORUMHOUSE)

Built mansard house of aerated concrete 30 cm D300 (foundations, slabs, walls, roof, floor, walls, windows). I planned for next year to do the facade with insulation, but the crisis came. Two winter the house stands, construction is suspended. Now the question is - do not allow the funds to do everything at once. What can happen wrong with the house of aerated concrete without finishing the facade? Is it possible and is it worth while to do the work inside the house (communications, floors, walls), or the front - in the first place.

For the use for the construction of load-bearing walls of the block, which is considered thermal insulation, not structural, Sergey-Spb I raise this question participants threads replied that the engineers with whom he had consulted, it was his decision considered viable. With regard to the question raised on the facade, answers these practitioners.

Konstantin Y. (Members FORUMHOUSE)

If the conversation was not about the D300 and in St. Petersburg (as I understand), I would say that you can not leave for a year. Not saying that D300 will collapse - just do not know how he will behave without finishing. And so, I D600, 250 mm for more than ten years without a normal outdoor decoration costs, of which a little less than ten fully heated (for a long time already with interior decoration). In principle, if the melt water from a leaky roof on it (aerated concrete) not constantly flowing, freezing and thawing alternatively, what it will be. At least five years, at least ten.

alexpan (Members FORUMHOUSE):

Eight years old house is worth without external finishes, wall thickness of 300 mm, plus interior plaster - normal flight. We live, this year will finish the kitchen and in the following loans ventilated facade without insulation. So do not be afraid, all the usual.

There is a specific algorithm for performing work in the homes of aerated concrete.

Sleng (Members FORUMHOUSE):

Priorities identified for a long time, and even more so, in the homes of the GB. Internal wet work, drying, exterior work. The recommended drying period - one year. But some of the regulated term of aerated concrete without exterior decoration does not exist.

However, experts advise to insure, especially since it does not require excessive financial costs.

Evgeny Kuznetsov (Technical Company Prosept Specialist):

The main disadvantage is its low aerated frost protection in the absence of moisture. Therefore, the exterior walls of aerated concrete is recommended to immediately finish. In the event that not enough money for facade work, or in priority - interior and settling, the front works may be delayed for several years, protecting the exterior walls from falling moisture. The most inexpensive one preservation processing is aerated water repellent protective impregnation -hydrophobizator.

In addition to walls in general, there are other risk areas, in which excessive vlagonakoplenie fraught with a minimum of cracking and a maximum - the destruction of the unit.

scvirtl(Members FORUMHOUSE):

Disaster struck (yet not clear, large or not). Upon completion of construction of the house of aerated concrete were 2 troubles:

•  Cracks at almost every window, this is due to the fact that vnutryanku done in the cold and moisture accumulate on the windows, and then - in the blocks under them. Blocks highly wet. Dried within their pack. Outside when stepped cold and frozen block - such cracks appeared. As far as critical, and how can I fix it?
• Under the door in the kitchen on the veranda future began to break blocks.

What to do?

Evgeny Kuznetsov:

In this case, as in many others, the main problem is that aerocrete freely absorb moisture, which they then destroyed from within. It is important to avoid waterlogging in the operation of aerated concrete. The situation with abnormally high moisture on its aerated during subsequent freezing leads to its destruction. To avoid such results it is worth paying special attention to the improvement drip spouts, cornices, each visor and spillway systems, thereby eliminating the likelihood of constant contact with water Gazoblok. That is - to ensure water drainage on those areas where it is possible waterlogging. Particular care is necessary to consider the protection of the masonry in the plinth area. If the water and snow will not be in constant contact with the concrete, the rain will not cause significant damage to the structure.

According to Eugene, to solve the problem described above will require serious repairs and restoration material. However, to prevent simple measures should be taken in future similar cases. The main thing - to prevent the absorption of water, can be treated with home water-repellent impregnation in the same way as we do, for example, with shoes, treating it in the rain season.

The basis for the hydrophobizing aerated concrete are silicones, silicone compounds it. They are affordable, inexpensive for the manufacturer, and therefore the processing of home price is acceptable for the builder.

It serves as a protection at home for several years, but due to the processing can avoid many of the problems that occur under the influence of moisture.

Another possible problem - the appearance of mold. By itself, the aerated concrete is considered to be the biological stability, but it is in a dry state, the wetting is quite possible the defeat of pathogenic microflora. The reasons for this phenomenon may be a mass, and the fight is necessary, first of all, to them, but to remove traces of microorganisms is quite real.

kondorand (Members FORUMHOUSE):

I ask for advice on anti-mold / fungi. House of aerated concrete, 250 mm thick, 1st floor - concrete, 2nd - attic with gables of aerated concrete. Pie wall outside-in: siding, ventzazor, windproof membrane, insulation, concrete, new plasterboard, wallpaper. Overlap between floors - wooden beams therebetween insulation thickness of 200 mm. On the ceiling of the ground floor - steam, hemmed with a wooden board. Residential only the first floor, second floor without insulation. The house was built 2 years ago, heat insulation - last summer. Began to sink in the middle of October, we went to live in November.

In kondorand the temperature in the building near 20-22⁰S outside does not have the severe frosts, from -2 to + 2⁰S (Leningrad region), and constant humidity outside. Ventilation is made in the kitchen (hood) and bathroom, new windows are often dampen, does not save and micro-ventilation and if opened wider vystyvaet house. The walls and the corners (especially, if both of adjacent outer walls) mold stained climbed, preferably slightly above the baseboards. Our user is interested in the question of what to do now.

Yevgeny Kuznetsov notes without full-time study linings put "diagnosis" is problematic and incorrect, the appearance of mold provokes humidity, and this phenomenon can be somewhat reasons:

• Insufficient insulation, causing condensate as solution to the problem - removal of thermal bridges.
• The overall construction of the walls and the sequence of the wall of the "pie". The wall must be built so as to provide an increasing water vapor permeability of materials as it moves from the inner to the outer layers of finish. The solution - the device additional ventilation.
• Poor waterproofing between the wall and the base material, and as a consequence - constant replenishment of the ground water. Is a common problem, especially in the swampy regions. One solution - carrying hydrophobic shutoff. This method is often used in construction, where it is necessary to stop the rise of ground water through the capillaries of the walls of the finished design. The procedure is forced saturation inside walls hydrophobizing solution.

Whatever the reason, it must be eliminated.

Evgeny Kuznetsov:

Needed reconstruction, otherwise the fight against mold will yield results only for a short period of time. After the completion of the structural work can begin to remove the mold. We recommend to process the necessary space structure that removes mold fungi. Old wallpaper can be replaced at will. If you can not do a full repair, after the removal of micro-organisms and processing protective structure from the mold can be painted the affected area.Removers and protectionfrom bioporazheny such as molds, fungi, moss, algae, very often used in high-humidity areas, such as bathrooms, and operate efficiently.

How to protect the unfinished stone

Sometimes the construction of the house is divided into several stages - a one-year foundation / basement, next - a box, and only on the third season of the roof. Sometimes, it turns out unplanned, due to lack of finance, but it requires conservation measures in any case.

Igor_Chaykin (Members FORUMHOUSE):

Is it possible to leave the unfinished box of INSI-Block in winter, rebuilt 2/3 of the first floor of the house. It planned to build at once, but finances have played a role. Now the building will be at least 2-3 years in phases. The roof over the year. How can you and whether you can protect INSI-block for a few seasons?

Yingxi block - one type of autoclaved aerated concrete, characterized by analog only by the presence seam connection system. Therefore, the conservation process will not differ from that of any other aerated concrete or ceramics, which also should not be left without protection in this situation.

Evgeny Kuznetsov

As already mentioned, it is undesirable wetting of aerated concrete, and the simplest way to prevent - processing hydrophobizator. In order to "freeze" the construction site for a while, you need to carefully handle aerated concrete on all sides by impregnating composition. For this fit ordinary garden sprayer with sufficient capacity. Additionally, if the appearance of the roof before the cold weather is not planned - it is possible to cover the upper edge of the wall film.

Depending on the stage at which to stop construction, in the same way you can protect the foundation or basement, as well as concrete floors. Like concrete, concrete is able to absorb moisture if the off-season to become generous showers plate may impregnated so that upon freezing it "tear".

However, the question arises as infiltration will affect the further construction and finishing works.

Evgeny Kuznetsov:

The logical question is, if I can later apply for aerated concrete, for example, plaster, because the surface will "repel" the water, and plaster is not glued. According to the rules of plastering before applying the plaster surface should be primed. Good ground is always incorporates surfactants, so primer quietly lay down on your concrete, plaster and consolidates perfectly.

Whether to leave their walls or under construction without any protection or hedge and walk hydrophobizator, private affair of each owner. But this choice is, and the technology is readily available in all respects.

You can learn more about the features in gazoblokov the appropriate section of the forumAbout the features of masonry - in the material proper operation with blocks. In the video - the house of aerocrete chalet-style.

Discuss the article and read other materials devoted to country life you can on the websiteFORUMHOUSE.

Subscribe to the channel and put the "Like" so as not to miss the next release!