Electrical life hacking to upgrade the country house

Availability of electricity - the main condition for a comfortable life in the country. From the smooth operation of the electrical network depends on the functioning of "inzhenerki" and household appliances. In addition, with the help of electricity can further increase the comfort of living in a cottage, equipping it with a number of useful devices and appliances. For example, those that will get rid of ice dams on the stairs, do not freeze in winter and communication quickly became popular to mount a low-temperature heating system "warm floor". Therefore, in this article we will, based on the experience FORUMHOUSE users tell:

• What you need to know the steps to the porch of heating devices.
• How to make a heating livnovki and gutters.
• Can I replace the heating cable purchase cost homemade.
• How to calculate the required power of the electric floor heating and wiring cross-section for its connection.

The device heating the porch steps

Winter - currently test for a country house. Frost, snow, frequent transitions through "zero", as the ice is subjected to rain and engineering design cottage system and its inhabitants checking the strength. In the event of breakage of electric wires or an accident at a substation in the case enters the backup power supply system, but what to do with the icing formed on the steps? Indeed, in this case, the rise or the descent it can turn injury, particularly if live in the house the elderly, or in a family with children.

Of course, the steps can be cleaned by hand, armed with a shovel and a broom, and it is possible to make a heated outdoor steps, which will not allow the formation of ice.

Shofu (User FORUMHOUSE):

I want to make the steps of heating system porch. Have a question that is better put: heating Self-regulating cables or mats if Heat Reflector, sensors, programmers need, a power equipment to take?

To answer these questions, you should remember the main rule - first calculation is done, it turns out the effectiveness and cost of operating such a system. Moreover, it is necessary to take into account the duration of the winter and the risk of thawing and subsequent maintenance of temperature in the negative, which leads to the formation of ice on the surface of the steps.

Olegko (User FORUMHOUSE):

- I live in Moscow. I made a thawing system, laying on three of the heating wires on one stage. I think he spent in vain, in the cold heating stages can not cope with the work.

Also interesting experience on the device snowmelt in Siberia. For example, the participant portal evraz in its region makes the heating system and the water-based Anti-icer underfloor, laying on the stage 1 by the pipe 2 with a diameter of about 1.6 cm. As the coolant, a special solution - antifreeze for heating systems a country house. System "energized" and the boiler is controlled in an automatic or manual mode. Heater foil and the substrate, which in the concrete (opaque medium) may not reflect the heat flow, as is not required for this air gap is not used.

Aluminum foil, with a thickness of not less than 30 microns, is laid in the floor heating is needed only for a better distribution of heat over its surface. Because less uneven temperature, the less the effect of the so-called "Zebra" when standing on the warm floor, the user feels that the heel heat, and cold fingers.

According to Evraz, power "water" snow melting system for the steps - to 600 W per 1 sq. m, with the proviso that half of heat flow goes upwards, and half - down. In severe frosts system does not turn on.

So, remember this figure - up to 600 W per 1 sq. m is required for system steps thawing. Effect that the system works on the street, without insulation, and increased power is required, and hence the increased energy consumption for its operation.

These figures are not static and are given for orientation.

Therefore, we are returning to the 1st rule and first do the calculation. Otherwise, mounting the steps of the electrical heating system can then greatly surprised bills for spent electricity.

Arthur4ik (User FORUMHOUSE):

- the same principle as in the calculation of a warm floor. All depends on the thermal resistance layer located above and below the heating element. If a heater is laid from below, and the heating electric cables laid in a layer of tile adhesive or under it, then think that there is sufficient power 300-350 W / sq. m. It will suffice to maintain the required us to melt ice +3 ° C at -10 ° C ambient air temperature.

If the temperature is lower than - 10 °Since then "chase" stages a heating system makes no sense. Air dry, moisture little frost is not formed, and the snow if it has dropped, it is easier to sweep broom. Power heating cable, too, is different. There are cables with 10-15 W specific heat at 1 meter, and there are higher. Those. we are back to the need for accurate calculation and selection of high-quality components for the heating system.

If we generalize users advice portal, we can distinguish the following recommendations:

• Heating electric cable is better suited for laying on the steps, ie on a complex surface shape. The heating mat is better to lay on the ground.
• Do not forget to put the cable (wire) at the top of podstuponka to departure stage of this site is also warmed.
•  If the system is controlled remotely, it is necessary to set the humidity sensor. Without it, focusing only on the lowest temperature, exposed to the thermostat, heating in winter will be working all the time, "twirling" extra kilowatts.

Frost is formed mostly in the temperature range from + 3 ° C to - 7 ° C, at high humidity.

• The temperature sensor is put in the corrugated pipe with a diameter of about 2 cm. Moreover, the sensor must be positioned so that it lies between the two conductors of the heating cable, approximately in the middle, not studded with one of them. Otherwise, it will show the temperature of the overcharge.
• On the thermostat it is necessary to set the correct temperature. We accept basic conditions for snow melting temperature + 3 ° C, but it is necessary to take into account that the sensor is not outside air, and a hardwired finishing layer. Those. there is a layer of glue + topcoat, for example, at step laid tiles, or are covered with stone. Therefore, to neutralize this difference and get real + 3 ° C per centimeter of thickness, by which the sensor is located on the thermostat adding about 1.5 degrees.

Gennady71 (User FORUMHOUSE):

- I made a snow-melting system. Porch Heated water level - a heating electrical cable. I experiment and see how it works at all. Then in his subject unsubscribe about results. I think that in the heating steps still do not have enough capacity, it was necessary to throw more 1-2 veins.

Heating and stormwater drainage

igorkzn (User FORUMHOUSE):

- I have a house with a flat roof. I want to make heating and stormwater drainage heating cable to avoid craters and glaciers, as a result - the formation of "pool" on the roof. I thought that for this it is necessary to buy, how to connect everything as connected, whether the sensors are needed? It is desirable that did not work out very expensive, since house more gradually completed, and need a simple timing diagram.

Portal users actively responded to the request igorkzn and proposed a number of solutions. Participant with the nickname beutiflet I advised a budget option. Buy heating cable, which is used to heat the concrete in the formwork with solid work in the winter. Connect the cable pieces (for resistance calculation), 10-15 meters long, through transformers 12 used to power the lights. Of the minuses way it should be noted that it is - a temporary solution, because steel cable is in PVC casing and can quickly fail.

Heating cable consumes an average of from 9 to 20 watts of power at 1 running. m. Knowing these parameters, you can calculate the total power consumption of the system and to find out how much it would cost its operation over the winter period.

3fazy (User FORUMHOUSE):

- In addition to the heating cable, still need a cable to the "cold end", ie cable, which will not be heated and factories in the machine or in the control device. cable cross-section should be selected on the basis of the total power of the heating cable.

Important: the heating cable may be a so-called self-regulating (samreg) which begins to heat when the temperature falls below a certain level (from + 5 ° C and below) and resistive heating cable. Such a cable comprises effusing a metal heat conductor, insulation, shielding and high strength outer casing.

Resistive Cable requires automation - the thermostat and humidity sensor that will adjust its work, that it is not warming at all times without disconnecting. Samreg easier to connect, it is more difficult to overheat and incapacitate, but do not think that his "miracle" will solve all the characteristics of the user.

igorkzn:

- In the end, I mounted a temporary solution - Connect the cable from the hopper through a heating wire Naroscheny samregom and just started the RCD of extension wire to C25. When I get to finishing work put temperature controllers, sensors, etc. The system works on the roof around the funnel, and the output is no frost is not formed.

Combining the humidity sensor and temperature Anti-icer system can work most efficiently and without fly "the pipe" on electricity bills.

What does make a homemade heating cable

Also, often the users who wanted to make the heating system, the question arises - is it possible to make the budget of the heating cable that is at hand. For example, taking the old power supply from the computer, and copper wire.

SlavaOrlov (User FORUMHOUSE):

- I heard about this method. BP took on the 300 W and two-core copper cable sheathed in a double-section 1.5 mm, length of 30 meters. Cable shorted at one end, having 60 m, and it is first connected to the output of the power supply at 12V and 18A (216 Watt) and then to 5V / 20A (100 Watts), and so that from this left.

With the closure of the cable to the 12-volt output power supply simply disconnected. When closing the cable at 5 volt power supply output is not left in the protection and continued working. cable temperature - 26 degrees, the output voltage - 2.7 volts. Within 5 minutes, the temperature has not changed. SlavaOrlov He continued to experiment and cut off from the bay 10 meters of cable and reconnect it to the 5-volt outlet. This time, everything worked as it should. In 2 minutes cable temperature rose 4 degrees for 10 minutes - 22 degrees, and hit at 48 ° C. Within 20 minutes of BP is not disconnected, and temperature of the cable eventually stopped at around 53 degrees. The output voltage of power supply 4.2 V. Conclusions:

• Low price - the old power supply from your computer can be bought cheaply or, more likely, it is in the bins of any handyman.
• The cable is inexpensive.
• The system responds well to repair and modification.

Minuses:

• Require automatic control and temperature control.
• BP also requires visual inspection.

Oldvist (User FORUMHOUSE):

- I, too, did a homemade heater cable. The basis taken field communication is carried out n-274m and a length of 50 m. It is inexpensive and well heated. Connect it to the transformer OCM-36 0.25 volts. Within 5 minutes of the cable in air temperature rose to 60 ° C and stopped.

Miranda16 (User FORUMHOUSE):

- I had to make heating water pipes going to the bath. I looked at the price of heating cable and thermostat - it's expensive. Then I took a piece of twisted pair category 5e and connected as shown in the diagram below, to the computer unit at 300 W power. At the 1st level of the heating power of the cable barely perceptible, on the 4th - hot cable, but the hand is suffering. It remains only to be connected to the heating cable temperature switch.

More one embodiment of the heating cable of twisted pair made Dreamer85.

The user had to route warm in winter with water, going to the bath. 10 m of the cable wound on the pipe. Then the cable is wrapped with tape and aluminum closed insulated "fur".

To calculate the capacity of the system, it is necessary to know the resistance of the cable per 1 meter length of cable used and the magnitude of the applied voltage. Also need a sensor that controls the temperature of the cable, so that it ultimately did not overheated and melted the plastic pipe.

Calculation of the power of the electric floor heating and the wiring section for connecting it

In recent years gained popularity among developers of low-temperature heating system "warm floor", which provides greater thermal comfort in the room than radiators. Warm water floor may be, when the pipes laid in concrete screed, the coolant is circulated, or electric.

With all the advantages of the water floor heating, not everyone has the opportunity to mount it in a country house, and even more so - in a city apartment with central heating. Therefore, developers opt for electric field as heat less time consuming and expensive variant. But, in spite of many well-established schemes, most users have a question about how much energy will "eat" such a system, and whether it will pull the harness.

Builder777 (FORUMHOUSE User):

- I think to make the house an electric floor heating. I understand that it is necessary to put a separate line to disable the machine, but which cable to select whether the copper section 3h2.5 approach?

So as not to practice divination, again all you need to start with the calculation. So, to operate a common understanding on the following algorithm:

• Determine whether warm floor main or auxiliary system (for comfort) heating.
• Choose the type of room.
• We expect the net area (unfurnished), which occupies the floor heating in the room.
• Determines the power consumed by the system.
• Based on the received power (energy underfloor) and select automatic wiring section.

If the floor heating is regarded as the primary heating system, its power should be calculated on the basis of the calculation of heat loss of the room which is to compensate the system.

A guide can take the averaged value of the necessary power for the floor heating dwelling - 150 W per 1 sq. m. Knowing this value and determining the heating area in the room, expect the power system.

Suppose it is necessary to mount the electric floor heating on an area of ​​15 square meters. M. Therefore: 15 (q. m) x 150 (W / sq. m) W = 2250, i.e. cable cross-section 3h2.5 mm machine 16A (3.52 kW) "pull" a floor + still have stock.

The main conclusion from the above: before something mount, it is necessary to know how to do it correctly, and for this we need to arm themselves with knowledge, for example by studying the following materials and themes.

It describes how to calculate the how much electricity consumed warm floor. Also we recommend a section on FORUMHOUSE, which contains answers to various questions on the electrics.

In this article, see the basic information in the system water and electric underfloor, and here - Rules of installation of wiring in a wooden house.

In the video - how to make the electrician to carry out "inzhenerku" in a country house.

Discuss the article and read other materials devoted to country life you can on the websiteFORUMHOUSE.

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